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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 528

post #5271 of 6483
Quote:
Dear.qu1ckset

Sorry if you feel uncomfortable with using the monitor.

You have two options now. please select one.

1. We can send PCB if you pay for it as $30.
you can change PCB, we can send the direction how to open the panel etc.)
We let you know PCB may not be the reason for the problem.

2. We can send your monitor to Crossover and let them fix.
It is for free.

but you need to pay round shipping fee for it. ($150)
We use Fedex for shipping.
If you can find another shipping company, you can use it also.

We will wait for your decision,
Thank you!
Alice



Sincerely yours
Red-Cap


That's the reply I got from red-cap, so I need your guys feedback on what I should do? Take the PCB or shop it for repairs, if I can get away with the $30 fix I'm happy..
So my monitor powers on according to the led indicators, but the actual screen doesn't come on...

So what should I do?
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Devil's Lair
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133Mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
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post #5272 of 6483
ladies and gentlemen that's your difference with redcap and AW... aw the pcb is free and overnighted from korea....and redcap wants to charge you for it... rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif


Get the pcb. sorry you have to spend $30. but it's better than the $150 and worth the shot before having to ship it out.
post #5273 of 6483
Hi guys...just quick question if anyone knows what is like starlinkstore...if they are reliable and any experience dealing with them...
post #5274 of 6483
never heard of them
post #5275 of 6483
Really excited. Just ordered me the 27q today from AW! Coming from a 27" Asus. Hope my new evga gtx 670 2gb runs this thing smooth. I know I will eventually have to sli to Max all my games out. But for now I'm content with 30-40fps in most games.
post #5276 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Descadent View Post

ladies and gentlemen that's your difference with redcap and AW... aw the pcb is free and overnighted from korea....and redcap wants to charge you for it... rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif


Get the pcb. sorry you have to spend $30. but it's better than the $150 and worth the shot before having to ship it out.

I agree! Just pay for the PCB and be done with it. I can attest for AW's support/customer service. The only negative is that they are closed on the weekends. Other than that, I'm so glad I went with AW. As soon as they got back with me they sent the new PCB out for FREE, and it was here the next day! thumb.gif

post #5277 of 6483
I ran the benchmark in Tomb Raider with everything maxed out except AA. I left that disabled. Didn't even need it at this resolution! biggrin.gif


post #5278 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qu1ckset View Post

That's the reply I got from red-cap, so I need your guys feedback on what I should do? Take the PCB or shop it for repairs, if I can get away with the $30 fix I'm happy..
So my monitor powers on according to the led indicators, but the actual screen doesn't come on...

So what should I do?

Changing out the LED controller is really easy and definitely the option you should choose. However, I had the exact some problem and also had red-cap as my seller, and I think if you complain and maybe threaten to bring it up with eBay (cause the sale claims a 1 year warranty) he may just send it. You don't actually have a case as after this much time eBay won't do anything, but if you try they might cave. I got my replacement PCB for free (though they sent me the same teal one which died shortly after again). I ended up paying for the second one simply to speed up the process cause I didn't want to jump through all the hoops.

This time I opened up a paypal dispute the second my other Crossover started mainboard failing and they were quick to respond and shipped my replacement PCB the next day for no charge.
post #5279 of 6483
I just received my 27Q from green-sum. Ordered Friday morning, received Wednesday afternoon. Had to pay DHL $50-some in tax and handling (in Canada).

I noticed that green-sum's one-page troubleshooting guide defines a "dead pixel" as: "We test in Black background... We define Dead pixel as bright dot ... Dark dot and stuck pixel is not handled as a dead pixel. Bright dot only." Very strange definition indeed.

But luckily I have no dead or stuck pixels. There's some minor backlight bleed and the adjustment range on the intensity seems a bit limited. But overall I'm very happy with the monitor..

It took a bit of fiddling to get it running under the Linux Nvidia driver. Apparently the EDID supplied by the monitor (listing resolutions, clock rates &c) has a checksum error. I guess this isn't surprising given the limited design effort that seems to have gone into this thing. I'm guessing the manufacturer changed the make and model strings but neglected to recompute the checksum. I had to add the following line to the Device section of /etc/X11/xorg.conf:

Option "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP-0"

This made the driver ignore the checksum error and everything worked fine after that.
post #5280 of 6483
Incredible, my new board arrived today. After insisting and trying to be very clear, they still sent me the LED board, not the main PCB. I installed it anyway just to see, and of course it didn't fix my problem.

This was their last message:
Quote:
We just sent PCB for you.
It is green PCB ( not LED one)
and please confirm the the tracking no. below.
XXXXXXXXXXX

Thank you!
Alice

But it was the green LED PCB. I really don't know how I could have made it more clear to them. I sent a picture, I specified its the largest board with the DVI and power connectors attached to it. This is really frustrating.
Edited by tehpsyc - 3/14/13 at 12:06pm
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