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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 568

post #5671 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by rodo111 View Post

When you say take brightness and contrast down to 0, do you mean their minimum? In AMD Catalyst, it seems as if "0" is the default, but it's like the midway point.

I'm using nVidia so 0 is minimum, yah take them down as low as they go which is probably -50 or -100 for AMD from what you say.
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Kaga (WIP)
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post #5672 of 6483
Hi.

I just wanted to know if these monitors are really worth it and if I get one should I pay a little extra for a perfect pixel?

Also I have a Sapphire HD7970. Will it be able to run any game on max or ultra or will i have to scale it back a bit?

Any help would be great.
post #5673 of 6483
If anyone is still deciding on which seller to purchase a monitor from, I would go with AccessoriesWhole for 1 significant reason.
I bought mine from TA_Planet, and he is a bad seller. My monitor died after barely 5 months, and he ignores all my messages. I asked him if I could get a new PCB or even ship mine back to him, no answer.
AccessoriesWhole has been helping me A LOT! He is trying to find out what's wrong with my monitor AND I DIDN'T EVEN BUY FROM HIM!
Just my voicing my opinion to eager buyers.
post #5674 of 6483
After my post a couple days ago I have contacted bigclothcraft and he is working with me to get me a new back light board to fix the problem, and that's after I've owned the monitor for 9 months. I definitely recommend him from my experience so far.

I also wouldn't personally go with a pixel perfect version because the only way you would even notice is if you have a large clump of dead pixels. If it's only one you have to put your face right up to the screen to even see it, and when playing games or movies with more colors it will be even harder to see.
post #5675 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by SICO94 View Post

Hi.

I just wanted to know if these monitors are really worth it and if I get one should I pay a little extra for a perfect pixel?

Also I have a Sapphire HD7970. Will it be able to run any game on max or ultra or will i have to scale it back a bit?

Any help would be great.

Pixel perfect according to most in here is not worth it. First of all, if you buy from a reliable seller (#1 recommended is accesorieswhole, also bigclothcraft is supposedly good), you'll likely get a very good panel (most likely perfect or very close to it so that it's completely unnoticeable). If it's not, they will replace it, send replacement parts, and take care of you for free. It's relatively low risk.

I've had mine for a few weeks and I'd say it was worth it. There are some cheap options now worth looking into with Qnix and their Samsung PLS panels (~$300), but the crossover is definitely near the higher end. I paid extra for the nice stand and pivoting features, but if you plan to get a VESA mount of some kind that is sturdy, you might feel it's more worth it to get a cheaper panel (Shimian or QNIX, not sure if Catleap is much cheaper).

Basically, I feel good about it because of the service and high quality product, but it's worth looking around.
post #5676 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by SICO94 View Post

Hi.

I just wanted to know if these monitors are really worth it and if I get one should I pay a little extra for a perfect pixel?

Also I have a Sapphire HD7970. Will it be able to run any game on max or ultra or will i have to scale it back a bit?

Any help would be great.

I have a 7970 as well, and I can run Tomb Raider maxed out and BF3 maxed out, except I have to turn off AA. But then again, you don't really need it then biggrin.gif
post #5677 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by gorman70 View Post

Hi everyone! Thanks for all the info that helped me in choosing my monitor.

I received this product: 27" Crossover 2730MD and the resolution is awesome, as well as the picture quality.

Unfortunately, it "glitches". It's like there's an intermittent and random glitch that goes across the whole screen in "bands" that either flash, or show "random colors", or a black horizontal line surrounded by "random colored noise". Stuff like that, it lasts a fraction of a second, but it's rather frequent. Several times a minute.

I'm sorry if I can't explain it properly. Here's some pictures of the kind of glitches I see. These are video frames stills from a video done with an iPhone. It would be impossible to catch these on a photograph, as they really last an istant.







I bought it from bigclothcraft, one of the suggested retailers in the thread.

Now, since it's doing this both on a DVI connection and on a RGB (PC) one, I think the problem does not lie with the cable used. My hope is that it might be the power brick. Otherwise... what are my options? Is this a known problem?

Thanks in advance to anyone kind enough to help.

Additional info:
I've been using it with two different PCs, one connected through VGA, the other one through DVI-D. I've tried with both connections attached (the monitor offers the choice to select the input to use) or just one. I've tried even low resolutions (720p for instance)... to no avail. One PC has a 512MB Nvidia 8800 GT videocard, the other an onboard ATI HD 4200. Both machines are for work use, so the low video RAM is something I'm aware of. But it definitely shouldn't be a problem for 2D regular desktop use.
Just wanted to give a final update. Opened a claim on PayPal, he answered once stating that the monitor had been shipped by mistake from the factory (?!?). Then he disappeared. PayPal gave him ten days to reply. Silence. PayPal closed the claim and gave me back my money. I lost the custom money, unfortunately. But... well, could have been worse.
post #5678 of 6483
Pretty sure I am about to order a crossover from accesorieswhole(seems like the best choice)
but I just wanted to know if the crossover can go lower than it's native resolution?
Also should I buy a multi-input one or stick with a single input due to decreased input lag?
post #5679 of 6483
Has anyone taken apart the plastic backed version of the Crossover monitors?

I just got my replacement PCB today and don't want to break anything.
post #5680 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure2sin View Post

Has anyone taken apart the plastic backed version of the Crossover monitors?

I just got my replacement PCB today and don't want to break anything.

I have a 2720MDP so it might be different. I took off the 4 screws holding the panel to the stand. Then there are 4 more screws on the bottom in the back that I removed. After all that. The front and back was still held tightly together. I have to use a wide blade screw driver along the gap to open it a bit and then stick in a wider piece of hard plastic and twist. then I get a small pop and the closest attachment pins opened up. then I move to the next tight spot and do the same going completely around the unit. Once you have loosen all the attachment point (6-7 along the long edge and 4-5 along the short edge) then you can remove the front. The LCD panel is attached to the back half at 4 places (2 on each side). Just pull on the edge and lift that side of the panel up, repeat on other side and now the panel is loose. lift the panel slowly and detach the 2 cable that's connected to it, then you can remove it completely. You will then see all the cables comes from a portion that's covered by a piece of sheet metal. Remove the screws and lift it off, you should then see all the PCBs.
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Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung XP941 256GB PCIe 2.0 x4 M.2 SSD LG 14X Blu-ray M-Disc CD DVD BDXL BD Burner Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler Windows 8.1 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung UN40JU7500 Curved 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Logitech G19 Cooler Master GX II - 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Power... Cooler Master Silencio 652S - Silent Mid Tower 
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