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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 579

post #5781 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by knanda View Post

I agree. I doesn't appear in blank screen also(only backlight). I can only see it on red/white backgrounds.
Is there a way to get rid of this struck pixel?? I have tried some software that changes the colors rapidly that should force the pixel to change color. I am afraid how long I can force the pixel with the software without resulting in any kind of damage??I tried like 5min and shut it off.

Usually they will not go away. They may act normal at times but will come back. I would recommend getting an RMA number to send it in if you still can or just replace the panel for $150-175.
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post #5782 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBean View Post

I don't get this! The LED Driver in my 27QLED went out. So I replaced it along with the power brick since the power brick was out putting 29v instead of 24v. The NEW power-brick has short circuit protection and it is still kicking off. Do I really need to replace the damn input board now?

*sigh*

Well if it was outputting 29Vdc to your kordis board (video board)then it is highly likely it had damaged it. I don't know the input voltage range of the board, you might want to look it up online or it might be silk screened on the pcb. Usually they have a range of 19-36Vdc for protection but I can be wrong. Was it working with the power supply outputting 29Vdc? Is the new led driver board correct? I would get a multimeter out and start troubleshooting. Test the power supply again stand alone. Open the monitor up and make sure the kordis board is outputting the correct voltage to the led driver board. Also look for any damage on the kordis board, visually inspect the inductors.
Edited by Craigaaa - 5/18/13 at 7:43am
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post #5783 of 6483
Hi! I wast just reading your post about the crossover 27q.
I have the same screen but I can't connect it to my new macbook pro (2012 model) because evertime I trie my computer shuts down. Thing is that he does work on my old mac book pro (2007 model).
So I was wondering what year macbook pro you use. An if you had any off this troubles?

Greets,
Matthijs
post #5784 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by matthijsbooij View Post

Hi! I wast just reading your post about the crossover 27q.
I have the same screen but I can't connect it to my new macbook pro (2012 model) because evertime I trie my computer shuts down. Thing is that he does work on my old mac book pro (2007 model).
So I was wondering what year macbook pro you use. An if you had any off this troubles?

Greets,
Matthijs

Your computer shuts off completely? or your screen goes black and its still running? What output video port are you using on your macbook pro? Are you using any type of adapter or converter?

We need to know what the differences are connecting it to your 2012 macbook to your 2007 macbook. Please tell us each configuration. Also what integrated/dedicated video processing unit is in your macbooks and what driver version you are using?
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post #5785 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by DivideByZer0 View Post

I just received a Crossover 27Q and it was working great, until I tried turning it off and on again. The screen starts off with a bunch of vertical lines, which blink down the screen in 10-30 seconds, until the screen is just black and flickering.








So apparently I need to buy a new PCB for my monitor; of course I should have read the thread before ordering from ASTROBILE. Does anyone know of a reliable seller for these?
post #5786 of 6483
Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?
post #5787 of 6483
Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?
post #5788 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by DivideByZer0 View Post

So apparently I need to buy a new PCB for my monitor; of course I should have read the thread before ordering from ASTROBILE. Does anyone know of a reliable seller for these?

PCB? There are three PCB's in the unit which doesn't include the internal panels lvds. (kordis board, led driver board, osd button board) Since the panel still has backlight from the LED driver board it looks like you have a faulty kordis kit (video board) but it may also be the panel. Have you tried a different DVI cable and updating your display driver just for s&g's.

Found a replacement board on ebay. It uses display port and its input 14Vdc ~ 19Vdc. I'd get the data sheet from them to double check the output pinouts to the led driver board. Test the current kordis board with a multi meter and document. The LVDS should be exactly the same pinout and they give you the cable as well as the osd board and cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DF-Signal-LCD-Controller-board-work-for-LM270WQ1-27inch-2560-1440-Lcd-Panel-/181110503192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2b06f718
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZaYoOoD View Post

Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZaYoOoD View Post

Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?

You can control brightness, contrast, gamma, etc. through your display driver. You can also calibrate the display in windows.
Edited by Craigaaa - 5/19/13 at 6:42pm
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post #5789 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigaaa View Post

Well if it was outputting 29Vdc to your kordis board (video board)then it is highly likely it had damaged it. I don't know the input voltage range of the board, you might want to look it up online or it might be silk screened on the pcb. Usually they have a range of 19-36Vdc for protection but I can be wrong. Was it working with the power supply outputting 29Vdc? Is the new led driver board correct? I would get a multimeter out and start troubleshooting. Test the power supply again stand alone. Open the monitor up and make sure the kordis board is outputting the correct voltage to the led driver board. Also look for any damage on the kordis board, visually inspect the inductors.

Thank you for the input. I have now taken it apart again. there appears to be no visible damage to the kordis board. For kicks and grins, I decided to plug the power backwards (rotated 180) and the monitor kicked on! No picture though. I'm starting to wonder if I grabbed a power brick with the wrong pinout. According to the powerbrick, looking at the connector with the flat side/keyed at 12 o'clock, the + pins are on the right side. I have verified this to see if I somehow got a backwards brick, but I highly doubt that.

Does anyone happen to know the actual pinout of the power connector or can you take a multimeter to the pins? The outside of the power connector is also the ground. If you use that for testing, you won't throw a spark.
    
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post #5790 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigaaa View Post

PCB? There are three PCB's in the unit which doesn't include the internal panels lvds. (kordis board, led driver board, osd button board) Since the panel still has backlight from the LED driver board it looks like you have a faulty kordis kit (video board) but it may also be the panel. Have you tried a different DVI cable and updating your display driver just for s&g's.

Found a replacement board on ebay. It uses display port and its input 14Vdc ~ 19Vdc. I'd get the data sheet from them to double check the output pinouts to the led driver board. Test the current kordis board with a multi meter and document. The LVDS should be exactly the same pinout and they give you the cable as well as the osd board and cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DF-Signal-LCD-Controller-board-work-for-LM270WQ1-27inch-2560-1440-Lcd-Panel-/181110503192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2b06f718

You can control brightness, contrast, gamma, etc. through your display driver. You can also calibrate the display in windows.

Thanks for the link! In fact, I found a seller of 27Q's, cool-guys, who is shipping me a replacement board, model number VLD0100. Accessorieswhole also offered to sell me one for the same price. I messaged all the sellers of 27Qs on ebay asking if they were selling this board. It's the main board that all the cables plug into (DVI, power, buttons, screen etc.) It's $40, but I'd rather just take the hit and leave negative feedback for this known scammer, ASTROBILE. (rather than pushing the case to its conclusion and having Ebay tell me to pay return shipping w/o the option of feedback.) I'm hoping it's not the panel and that I just got a faulty PCB. (also, I've tried a different cable, my friend's PC, and a different power adapter, and none of these worked. If it turns out to be the panel I guess I'll have to end up paying return shipping......)
Edited by DivideByZer0 - 5/20/13 at 6:15am
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