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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 580

post #5791 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin1 View Post

So this is what my monitor is doing... Takes a few restarts to fix but it eventually works just fine. I haven't tried using my other GPU yet but it didn't start doing this until I got my Crossover. I've already tried 2 different DVI-D cables, etc.. Only thing I haven't tried is my 2nd GPU. Which I'm wanting second opinions because I think my monitor may be defective.
CROSSOVER ISSUES **PICTURE HEAVY** (Click to show)









Anyone got an opinion they wanna share? I'm totally lost...

Mine dose the same thing!
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post #5792 of 6483
Successfully running 2730MDP monitor at 85HZ for 2 Days:D. This is the maximum refresh rate I tried till now and its working perfectly. No frame skipping or any other problems.
post #5793 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBean View Post

Thank you for the input. I have now taken it apart again. there appears to be no visible damage to the kordis board. For kicks and grins, I decided to plug the power backwards (rotated 180) and the monitor kicked on! No picture though. I'm starting to wonder if I grabbed a power brick with the wrong pinout. According to the powerbrick, looking at the connector with the flat side/keyed at 12 o'clock, the + pins are on the right side. I have verified this to see if I somehow got a backwards brick, but I highly doubt that.

Does anyone happen to know the actual pinout of the power connector or can you take a multimeter to the pins? The outside of the power connector is also the ground. If you use that for testing, you won't throw a spark.

Tested mine a few moments ago. It is keyed so, if the polarity is silk screened on the kordis board you can go off of that. Or the picture below.

Not sure why the Koreans made the psu connector a male connector? Usually sends voltage is female and receives voltage is male. Scary to think if the male end was unplugged while receiving AC and laying on the floor.

Also my output was 23.6Vdc. I was happy it wasn't exactly 24Vdc since who knows how they engineered the kordis board +/- 10% could damage it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by DivideByZer0 View Post

Thanks for the link! In fact, I found a seller of 27Q's, cool-guys, who is shipping me a replacement board, model number VLD0100. Accessorieswhole also offered to sell me one for the same price. I messaged all the sellers of 27Qs on ebay asking if they were selling this board. It's the main board that all the cables plug into (DVI, power, buttons, screen etc.) It's $40, but I'd rather just take the hit and leave negative feedback for this known scammer, ASTROBILE. (rather than pushing the case to its conclusion and having Ebay tell me to pay return shipping w/o the option of feedback.) I'm hoping it's not the panel and that I just got a faulty PCB. (also, I've tried a different cable, my friend's PC, and a different power adapter, and none of these worked. If it turns out to be the panel I guess I'll have to end up paying return shipping......)

You can find many video boards that will work with the LG panel. If you bought it from accessorieswhole they will send you all the parts for free using fedex air shipping method.
Edited by Craigaaa - 5/20/13 at 4:52pm
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post #5794 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigaaa View Post

Tested mine a few moments ago. It is keyed so, if the polarity is silk screened on the kordis board you can go off of that. Or the picture below.

Not sure why the Koreans made the psu connector a male connector? Usually sends voltage is female and receives voltage is male. Scary to think if the male end was unplugged while receiving AC and laying on the floor.

Also my output was 23.6Vdc. I was happy it wasn't exactly 24Vdc since who knows how they engineered the kordis board +/- 10% could damage it.



So it does look like I need a kordis board now. *sigh* It lights up the monitor but there is no video what so ever.

I really hope that nothing else is wrong with this damn thing.
    
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post #5795 of 6483
I think my board or psu is dying. The brightness flickers a bit and then it does that black screen but still on thing. Turning it off and back on helps. Anybody else get this?
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post #5796 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by derfer View Post

I think my board or psu is dying. The brightness flickers a bit and then it does that black screen but still on thing. Turning it off and back on helps. Anybody else get this?

You're going to replace BOTH the PSU and the board. This is what happen to me. Stop using it until you at least get a new power-brick. Mine killed the video input board (Krodis board).
    
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post #5797 of 6483
The board and psu huh? My bezel has paint bubbles. My panel has developed a dark spot. I might as well just get a new one. Question is will it just happen again? I read they improved the boards to stop flickering, but did they add better psus as well? Figure I'd order from AW again.
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post #5798 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBean View Post



So it does look like I need a kordis board now. *sigh* It lights up the monitor but there is no video what so ever.

I really hope that nothing else is wrong with this damn thing.

If you look on the power supply there is also a label too. Just noticed. :facepalm:



Quote:
Originally Posted by derfer View Post

I think my board or psu is dying. The brightness flickers a bit and then it does that black screen but still on thing. Turning it off and back on helps. Anybody else get this?

If its the backlight that dimms or flickers its most likely the LED driver board which powers the backlight. When the LED driver board over heats/fails it will shut off which then turns off the LED's backlight of the panel. Since the power supply is still sending power to the video board, the video board and osd(button board) are still fully functioning. The osd board should still respond if you press the power button on and off. You just wont see any backlight, but the video board is still sending video through the lvds board on the panel you just can't see the video because its dark. The Rev 00 board has a known issue with the mosfet failing. You can actually take the access panel off, unscrew and look for discoloration (brown) on the PCB. If you need any guidance replacing the board PM me. Accessorywhole will send you a new LED driver board for free if it is still under the 1 year warranty.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBean View Post

You're going to replace BOTH the PSU and the board. This is what happen to me. Stop using it until you at least get a new power-brick. Mine killed the video input board (Krodis board).

He does not need to replace the kordis video board or the external power supply. It is most likely the LED driver board if its a backlight issue. The reason why you have no video is because you sent 24Vdc to the kordis board in the incorrect polarity. These boards most likely don't have reverse polarity protection. The video board would only be affected, the panel, led driver board and osd should be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derfer View Post

The board and psu huh? My bezel has paint bubbles. My panel has developed a dark spot. I might as well just get a new one. Question is will it just happen again? I read they improved the boards to stop flickering, but did they add better psus as well? Figure I'd order from AW again.

Again, check the LED driver board for brown discoloration on the back of the PCB and the mosfet for failure. If it is fried, contact accessorieswhole and ask them to send you a replacement LED driver board. It should be a green PCB, its a direct swap. Takes about 2 minutes to replace. Picture of mine when I replaced it 10 months ago. At the time I walked away from my computer and I could not get any backlight on the panel. Opened it up and first thing I checked was the LED driver board which supplies power for the panels LED backlighting. I work as a technician for touch monitors, kiosks and computers. Nothing new to me. I searched for a new board for hours because 10 months ago noone had the issue yet. I sent accesorieswhole a email with pictures and I asked them for a new REV and specifically said I did not want the REV 00. Was there a fix that engineering did? Yes, new REV we send you new board ok! I just hope on the new LED driver board they used decent capacitors because I've seen cheap caps blow on inverters many times. If they do go you can replace them for less than $2. Try to always buy panasonic caps too they have a very long life rating and up to 105C.


Edited by Craigaaa - 5/21/13 at 7:24pm
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post #5799 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigaaa 
He does not need to replace the kordis video board or the external power supply. It is most likely the LED driver board if its a backlight issue. The reason why you have no video is because you sent 24Vdc to the kordis board in the incorrect polarity. These boards most likely don't have reverse polarity protection. The video board would only be affected, the panel, led driver board and osd should be fine.

I was refering to the LED Driver board. tongue.gif
    
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post #5800 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabb View Post

Sigh, BCC aren't even replying to me. frown.gif Technically it's evening there now, meaning they had yesterday and today to reply so it's pretty much been 48 hours business time unless there's a holiday going on in South Korea?

I'll give it one more day just in case they're busy or something.

EDIT: Received a reply from BCC now smile.gif Need to upload the video I recorded then I can reply to him.

Just a small update.

Here's the latest reply from BCC:
Quote:
I request inverter Board from manufacturer.
They prepare to make shipment.
When I receive board, I will send it by express shipping service.

Is this the part I need for my backlight flickering, "image going to black whilst monitor light stays blue" problems?

I've just replied to his email and sent him a picture of the LED driver board asking him if he will be sending me the green one, hopefully he will and hopefully it fixes my problems.
Edited by Dabb - 5/21/13 at 8:59pm
    
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