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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 632

post #6311 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ueberglock View Post

My Crossover 27Q has developed the same blackout problem after two weeks of usage. At my seller's request, I opened it to examine the innards. The LED driver board (small one mounted on the side) and the connector board (square one mounted in the center) both looked okay. I noticed a screw was missing on the lid at the top edge of the monitor. (See red circle on first photo.) I took off that lid. It covers three more boards. Two of them are long and slim. The larger one sitting below them had two splotches of what looked like white molten wax to me, which seems to come from cylindrical parts mounted onto the board. (See second photo.) Are there capacitors filled with such white stuff? Keep in mind that while it doesn't look right to me, I do not know whether this is actually a defect, and whether it is the cause of the blackouts.




Anyone who knows about electronics, your insights concerning the white splotches are welcome.

You can see a (low quality) video of the blackout here:

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=30a973n&s=6

The characteristic thing is that the blackout onset is not instantaneous. It takes about half a second to a full second for the blackout to engulf the entire screen. It is like power fading from the monitor, like an LED on some stereo equipment that consumes what's left in a capacitor before dieing off, just quicker.

This effect is a bit disconcerting. I've never seen such a blackout on any monitor at all. Neither on television sets. It certainly doesn't rhyme with quality. Might be bad luck, but a missing screw and squashed whatnot on a PCB, hmm …

I trust the cause of the blackout will be found and the fault repaired. I bought from the seller enjoying the best reputation on this forum.

I do not yet regret purchasing the monitor as the image is truly beautiful. Only one dead pixel on the side (hardly noticeable), and a slight yellow tint, none of which bothers me. But occasional blackouts do, as they are foreboding of an eventual final blackout.

I got 2 CrossOver 27Q with pivot on 21 May 2012. On 29 Jan 2014, one of the monitor got this problem.

From the video, apparently 1 or 2 of the PCB got some problem.



I emailed the seller "Green-Sum" and he informed me that the 2 PCB will cost USD$95 with shipping. After I found out about the cost, I plug the monitor back on 12 Feb 2014 and miraculously it worked. I just hope that both my monitor will continue to work for the next 10yrs. LOL!!
post #6312 of 6485
Hi all i have been following this thread for almost a year and friday i pulled the trigger on
2720MDP GOLD LED Perfect pixel for $449
i keep thinking i picked the wrong one with so many different models.
post #6313 of 6485
Have you guys seen this variant of the Crossover before http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-New-Crossover-27QW-DP-AH-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PC-Glossy-Monitor-/261384867143?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cdbc08d47? Is this just the black tune version re-branded or something? They claim its AH-IPS with 120hz support and glossy but at that price I'm assuming it's one of the 120hz ones that skips frames correct?
 
NAS4Free Server
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Threadripper 1950x ASRock X399 Taichi RX Vega 64 Undecided 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Sandisk II Ultra Plus 960GB SSD Seagate Barracuda 2TB Custom Watercooling (Barrow/Bykski parts) Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Crossover 44K 40" 3840x2160 Das Mechanical  Cooler Master 1000W 80+ Gold Fractal Design Define C TG 
MouseAudio
Razer Deathadder 2013 Creative Sound Blaster Z 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A4-5000 Kabini ASRock QC5000-ITX  Integrated 4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOS
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NAS4Free Server
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Threadripper 1950x ASRock X399 Taichi RX Vega 64 Undecided 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Sandisk II Ultra Plus 960GB SSD Seagate Barracuda 2TB Custom Watercooling (Barrow/Bykski parts) Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Crossover 44K 40" 3840x2160 Das Mechanical  Cooler Master 1000W 80+ Gold Fractal Design Define C TG 
MouseAudio
Razer Deathadder 2013 Creative Sound Blaster Z 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A4-5000 Kabini ASRock QC5000-ITX  Integrated 4GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOS
2TB Seagate Constellation Nas x2 RAID 1 Samsung 840 Pro 256GB 2TB Toshiba  NAS4Free 
PowerCase
Silverstone Strider 500 Watt 80+ Gold Fractal Design Node 804 
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post #6314 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by MapRef41N93W View Post

Have you guys seen this variant of the Crossover before http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-New-Crossover-27QW-DP-AH-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PC-Glossy-Monitor-/261384867143?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cdbc08d47? Is this just the black tune version re-branded or something? They claim its AH-IPS with 120hz support and glossy but at that price I'm assuming it's one of the 120hz ones that skips frames correct?
i didnt see that on

I didnt see that one when i was looking, i think basicaly they are all the same if you buy a AH-ips then all the AH- ips models are the same with just different features as in inputs pivot etc

same applies to s-ips just look at specs so my advice now to anyone looking to buy is to decide if you want glossy or matte if pivet or tilt are important and grab the cheapest one you can find. if i was to do it ove i would get the $319 one with only DVI input and normal stand s-ips or ah-ips
post #6315 of 6485
Ordered 2xCROSSOVER 27QW's this weekend. I had ordered and tried using a QNIX 2710 Evolution ii but the PLS differences are too noticeable, along with the horrendous light bleeding and inconsistent connection issues (tried 3 cables).

Crossing my fingers for better!
post #6316 of 6485
I have the biggest dilema what to do.

I want to buy one of these monitors, but don't know the differences =/

I am going to use them for gaming, video editing, etc.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-Crossover-27QW-HDMI-LED-2560-x1440-Slim-AH-IPS-Monitor-/221350267580?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3389810abc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Achieva-Shimian-QH2700-IPSMS-Edge-Eco-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-DVI-PC-Monitor-/131033629039?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e8236816f

I read that no one is overclockable to 120Hz but I don't need that though.

Can you help me please?

I will buy 2.
Edited by eduardo - 2/22/14 at 4:28pm
post #6317 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigaaa View Post

Did you inspect the LED driver board and confirm that it is REV 00? by digitalwave(blue PCB with large coil) If it is failing there should be visual damage at the mosfet and brownish discoloration on the back of the PCB. I would suggest everyone inspect their LED driver board for the REV 00. If you do have the REV 00 I highly suggest you contact your seller and have them ship you the new REV (green PCB). Even if the LED driver board is not failing yet it will eventually fail.

Not sure why BCC is calling it a inverter. Big difference from inverter to LED driver. Inverters input DC then convert the voltage to output AC for the CCFL bulbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabb View Post

Yep, I've just gone and checked it now and I do indeed have the blue LED driver/inverter board which is rev00.

You can see in the pictures below that the mosfet is damaged and there is discolouration on the areas around and behind the mosfet.

I don't think I've seen a guide on how to replace any parts of the monitor so far so I'll make a simple picture tutorial.

Guide to opening the Crossover 27Q monitor and replacing parts

Firstly, unscrew two screws at the bottom and 6 on each side on the back of the monitor. The 7 screws in the centre can remain there (left and right 2 hold the side "flaps" and the bottom 3 hold the monitor i/o plate).



Once you've done that the back "shell" of the monitor should be free from the screen. The back shell has the LCD driver/inverter board on the left and another board in the middle. (Looking at it from the back, not from the front)

Be very careful as you lift the back shell up as there are two wires connected to the panel. One is at the top and one is on the left side of the monitor, going into the LCD driver/inverter board. You need to carefully disconnect these two cables.

Here is the panel itself:



The boards screwed to the back shell:



Rev 00 Digital Wave LED Driver/Inverter board:



You can see that the mosfet is damaged and the area around it is discoloured in my photo. Here's a picture of more obvious discolouration on the back:



When you put the monitor back together, make sure the little light diffusing plastic thing is placed back into position:



I didn't realise mine fell out and I didn't feel like going through all the screws again so I'll put it back in when the replacement boards arrives.

You are right man!!!

My CrossOver 27Q reached me on 21 May 2012 and it has the blue Rev 00 LED driver board. It failed on end Jan 2014.

Like what you said .... "It will eventually fail." I open it up and the MOSFET is burnt exactly like what shown in the pictures above.
post #6318 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teo14 View Post

I am another member of team Crossover that got hit with a hot MOSFET. I just registered to share my input.

Purchased in June from Bigclothcraft, fast shipping and good communication.

Fast-forward to the end of August, started having some intermittent flickering issues that would happen for a second or two at a time then go away. I sent a message to BCC and he responded very quickly and offered to send a replacement power brick. I accepted his offer and the power supply arrived 2 days later.

I used the new power brick and everything seemed fine for a couple of days until my monitor's screen would go dark (backlight would go out but power light would still be blue). I could tell this was linked to the backlight brightness as it would only happen when the backlight was anything above the minimum setting. Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0bjwnEI-Lw

I explained the issue to BCC and he authorized sending the monitor back via his account with DHL.

Seeing how many others had this issue with the mosfet on the LED power board I decided to crack my panel open and have a look:





Toasty.

So I dug up an old mosfet heatsink from a graphics card, cleaned the heatsink and mosfet with some rubbing alcohol, applied a tiny dot of Arctic Silver to the mosfet and temporarily secured it to the board with some double sided foam tape.



I hooked everything up and at first it seemed it didn't work (monitor would die if brightness was turned up). I tried power cycling the monitor a few more times and then it just worked, the monitor would stay on on the highest brightness. The heatsink did get hot to the touch so there is some definite need for some cooling.

I am going to attach the heatsink more permanently, I'm thinking a couple dots of epoxy on the corners and some Arctic silver in the middle of the mosfet, however I am open to suggestions smile.gif

I am going to let BCC know about the issue and maybe we can both save some time and money by just getting a new LED driver board shipped out. Has anyone received a replacement board from any seller yet?

I heard a member say they didn't have a blue PCB for the LED driver board and instead a green one so I assume Crossover is aware of the issue and are using a different board on the newer panels they are shipping out.

edit: found a datasheet for the 18T10GH MOSFET used on this board, has a maximum operating temperature of 150 degrees Celsius and judging by the charring on most people's boards its hitting that upper limit.

Sorry to dig up the old post.

I found Aliexpress selling this MOSFET @ USD$1.42 / 5 pcs.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/AP18T10GH-18T10GH-TO-252/719408_843586295.html




Post here, just in case some of you wanna do some hardcore DIY repairs.
post #6319 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBean View Post

Well, my 27Q's LED Driver board just bit the dust. There is one mosfet that has obviously overheated. Does anyone know if this ends up damaging the LCD Driver board as well? I tested my power brick and it was outputting 29v.

Also talked to DreamSeller and to warranty it, I would have to ship the screen back to them in KOREA! Or I can just order the replacement board for $30. I was thinking of just hitting up mouser and trying to solder a new mostfet back on. and slap a heatsink on it!

Would this help?

I found Aliexpress selling this MOSFET @ USD$1.42 / 5 pcs.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/AP18T10GH-18T10GH-TO-252/719408_843586295.html



Post here, just in case some of you wanna do some hardcore DIY repairs.
post #6320 of 6485
2720MDP is the fastest Korean monitor like response time ?
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