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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 73

post #721 of 6485
Well guys, yesterday I joined the club and recieved my Crossover from cool-guys. They shipped fast, but then dutch customs took from the 02th till the 19th to get the package to me.

All in all it was around 300 euro for the monitor and then customs asked met 31 euro' s.

It arrived well packaged and without damage. I made a lot of photo's, so I'll post an album tonight.

Monitor looks good, no defect pixels from what I could tell in 30 minuten yesterday evening. It had the blueish tint over it so I quickly applied the color profile that has been circulating and that seems to make a huge difference! I'll experiment more with that later on.

On a side note, I'm using a GTX680. Saw bios POST and everything else.

First thing I did was test the monitor on the supplied stand. I found it to be just fine for a normal stand. It is the non-pivot version because I will be using my own monitor arm. After trying to plug in the power plug backwards a few times and it buzzing and the power supply shutting down, I found out that you actually need to insert the power plug in a way that was not logical to me. The part on which your thumb rests needs to be facing the monitor instead of outward. Amazingly enough, it goes in the wrong way far enough for it to brown the pins and make it buzz a bit.... :S Luckily it fired right up when inserted correctly. A warning:

The flat surface of the power connector should face the monitor, NOT outward as you would expect.

Did some checks, all ok and turned it off to remove the stand and attach my monitor arm. That all went fine.... until..... it wouldn't turn on anymore. :S The powersupply would very softly blink it's green light and make a strange buzzing/beeping sound very softly. No life from the monitor whatsoever.

After thinking what it could be, I remembered somewhere I believe in the catleap threads someone mentioned that the VESA mounting holes are very shallow and to watch out with it. I decided to try and see and removed the lower 2 mounting screws and reconnected the power. Light comes on, all is well! After checking, I can actually see blue PCB in the lower mounting holes where I could see marks of my screws digging in. Not cool..... So a warning for everyone:

Watch out using the VESA mounts and check screw depth on lower holes!

There, hopefully others won't make the same mistakes.

Anyway, only had about half an hour left to tinker with it but from I saw it looked great. Photo' s and more tonight! biggrin.gif And for now, everyone a big thank you in this forum for sharing your experiences!

p.s. I have the normal 'non-tempered glass version'
post #722 of 6485
Haha, that was me warning about the Catleaps and I repeated the same thing ( a page or two back ) with my Crossovers. Luckily no permanent harm was done in all 3 cases for us biggrin.gif The Catleap did actually have a thin piece of metal between the controller and the VESA mounting holes. In this case with the Crossover there is NOTHING stopping your screws from going through the controller. Really stupid design.

The VESA mounting is actually not the same depth for the top and bottom sets of screws. I think the top has more room like you described. I noticed this when I disassembled it, but I figure the included screws were short enough in both cases, but I guess the Ergotron plate was a bit thinner than the stock stand's mounting.

And the power plug thing was the same as my Catleap ( flat part facing the monitor ). So I didn't have that problem, I'm surprised it went in the other way. It is staggered to prevent that but I guess the pins could bend if you forced them.

Once I get my DP to DVI adapter setup (should be tomorrow) I'll take some shots of my triple crossover setup on HP Desk Mounts (Ergotron LX rebrands for $75 ea) . I was even able to fit my speakers between the three mounts. In portrait there isn't enough height to clear my speakers, so they're sitting behind the monitors a bit obscured. I was just going to get rid of them and go headphones only for a while. I can rotate to portrait or landscape for all three and have freedom in depth/height everything. I gaffer taped the power adapters to the back side of my desk (just enough cord length to reach the bottom of the mount by a few inches). We'll see if that holds, I'm cheap and lazy though and this is only a setup for the next 12 months.

I'm happy for how much it cost, just gotta find a buyer for my Dell 3007 now. I should be able to get more than half of what I paid for 3 of these Crossovers.
post #723 of 6485
After finding about all the stuck pixels on my monitor and being disappointed as hell, I contacted red-cap. They were helpful and resolved the problem to the point where I was satisfied. After what happened with my monitor though, they wanted me to share with everyone that from now on they will be checking the monitors before shipping them out. Sounds like good news to the rest of you that plan on buying one and were worried about getting one that was bad.
post #724 of 6485
For Crossover only or other models as well?
post #725 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Haha, that was me warning about the Catleaps and I repeated the same thing ( a page or two back ) with my Crossovers. Luckily no permanent harm was done in all 3 cases for us biggrin.gif The Catleap did actually have a thin piece of metal between the controller and the VESA mounting holes. In this case with the Crossover there is NOTHING stopping your screws from going through the controller. Really stupid design.
Couldn't agree more! I used screws that either came with the Ergotron LX or my Dell u2410, not sure where I got them. But they are thumbscrews and quite long. tongue.gif They did actually leave marks on the PCB from what I could see through the hole. I'll try and take some macro pictures of that and my thumbscrews tonight. I did get a bit scared when it wouldn't turn on anymore and would not have thought that it could be the screws if you hadn't written about it first, so good call in posting that!
Quote:
The VESA mounting is actually not the same depth for the top and bottom sets of screws. I think the top has more room like you described. I noticed this when I disassembled it, but I figure the included screws were short enough in both cases, but I guess the Ergotron plate was a bit thinner than the stock stand's mounting.
Ah, not using the included screws myself as mentioned above. I'll take a picture tonight and compare them.
Quote:
And the power plug thing was the same as my Catleap ( flat part facing the monitor ). So I didn't have that problem, I'm surprised it went in the other way. It is staggered to prevent that but I guess the pins could bend if you forced them.
It didn't go in completely, but it did go in far enough to see some blue sparks inside the monitor and burn 2 of the 4 pins in the lug. Actually amazed it's still working, better design then I had expected to be honest. wink.gif
Quote:
Once I get my DP to DVI adapter setup (should be tomorrow) I'll take some shots of my triple crossover........
Cool, always nice to see! Did you have to tension the Ergotron LX much before it would hold your screen? I'm a bit afraid of overtensioning it.
post #726 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by nocutius View Post

For Crossover only or other models as well?

They didn't specify, but I'm sure it's for all their monitors. I think after they realized how expensive return shipping is; they now want to make sure all the monitors they send out are up to standards.
post #727 of 6485
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrk View Post

After finding about all the stuck pixels on my monitor and being disappointed as hell, I contacted red-cap. They were helpful and resolved the problem to the point where I was satisfied. After what happened with my monitor though, they wanted me to share with everyone that from now on they will be checking the monitors before shipping them out. Sounds like good news to the rest of you that plan on buying one and were worried about getting one that was bad.

So he is shipping you a new one without stuck pixels?
post #728 of 6485
Syrk, are you Red-Cap? biggrin.gif

Anyhow, I bought 3 from Red-Cap, no Dead Pixel, I just need the blue tint remover profile.
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post #729 of 6485
Hey guys,

I am super tempted to buy one of these (the LED-P version because I need height adjustment), and I understand all the risks involved (expensive warranty process as you would need to ship back to korea, A- panel grade, etc.)

I just have a question that's keeping me on the fence:

I run only a EVGA GTX 470 video card. Now I don't plan on playing BF3 at ultra at these kind of resolutions. Hell, I can't even play that on ultra right now.
Thankfully, that game is boring the crap out of me so I've quit it and gone back to SC2.

My question is: Can I play games at a lower than native resolution, or will the monitor not support it? Like I'm mainly talking about SC2 which I play very frequently (master's) and upcoming Diablo 3, another not too graphically intensive game. I don't care if the pixels are stretched or whatever - but I really don't feel like blowing a lot of money for another video card just yet.

Thanks.

Also, on all those compatibility charts I see on the item descriptions, the GTX 470 is oddly not included. I figure it's still compatible, but is there something else here?

And lastly, I can run this alongside another monitor for a 2 monitor set up right? I have an ultrasharp U2311h or something.
Edited by holyherbiness - 4/20/12 at 8:48am
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My System
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i7 875k @ 2.93 Ghz Stock Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3 Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce G Skill RipJaws 4 GB 1600MHZ 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
OCZ Agility 2 Solid State Drive Windows 7 Professional 64 bit Crossover 27" LED-P 2560 x 1440 Corsair HX650W Modular PSU 
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Lian Li/Lancool PC-K62 
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post #730 of 6485
Pretty sure it's better to run at native resolution and lower settings with LCD.
Wouldn't matter with CRT,tho.
And yes,you can run a 2nd monitor as well.
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