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CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club - Page 74

post #731 of 6483
You can run lower resolution too, but it looks better in 1440p
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post #732 of 6483
I'm buying one of these right now. I cannot wait for the Catleap OC if it ever happens I might still get one. I noticed red-cap put a, "shipped after testing" under his Crossover postings. I paid some extra for the Crossover due to it's stands design. I don't have much space on my desk to push the monitor back and the stands on PCBank, Catleap and Achieva were bulky. The Crossover gives me a extra 2 inches of breathing room thumb.gif

I'll post pictures when I get it!
post #733 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbuschdev View Post

Haha, that was me warning about the Catleaps and I repeated the same thing ( a page or two back ) with my Crossovers. Luckily no permanent harm was done in all 3 cases for us biggrin.gif The Catleap did actually have a thin piece of metal between the controller and the VESA mounting holes. In this case with the Crossover there is NOTHING stopping your screws from going through the controller. Really stupid design.
The VESA mounting is actually not the same depth for the top and bottom sets of screws. I think the top has more room like you described. I noticed this when I disassembled it, but I figure the included screws were short enough in both cases, but I guess the Ergotron plate was a bit thinner than the stock stand's mounting.
And the power plug thing was the same as my Catleap ( flat part facing the monitor ). So I didn't have that problem, I'm surprised it went in the other way. It is staggered to prevent that but I guess the pins could bend if you forced them.
Once I get my DP to DVI adapter setup (should be tomorrow) I'll take some shots of my triple crossover setup on HP Desk Mounts (Ergotron LX rebrands for $75 ea) . I was even able to fit my speakers between the three mounts. In portrait there isn't enough height to clear my speakers, so they're sitting behind the monitors a bit obscured. I was just going to get rid of them and go headphones only for a while. I can rotate to portrait or landscape for all three and have freedom in depth/height everything. I gaffer taped the power adapters to the back side of my desk (just enough cord length to reach the bottom of the mount by a few inches). We'll see if that holds, I'm cheap and lazy though and this is only a setup for the next 12 months.
I'm happy for how much it cost, just gotta find a buyer for my Dell 3007 now. I should be able to get more than half of what I paid for 3 of these Crossovers.

Out of curiousity since most of us paid extra to get the Crossover for it's nice stands what drew you to them rather than to their slightly cheaper cousins? Since admittedly without the stand I probably would've gone with the PCBANKS or even played the Catleap panel lottery.

I assume it was the general sense of a better build quality with it's metal (rather than plastic) backs?
post #734 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taget View Post

Out of curiousity since most of us paid extra to get the Crossover for it's nice stands what drew you to them rather than to their slightly cheaper cousins? Since admittedly without the stand I probably would've gone with the PCBANKS or even played the Catleap panel lottery.
I assume it was the general sense of a better build quality with it's metal (rather than plastic) backs?

I choose the Crossover because of their nice Pivot Stand, their great look and the quality of it. Also because people tends to get less bad pixel with the crossover. The Bezel is also pretty small.
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post #735 of 6483
Okay, finally got my photo's ready. Turns out when switching from a Dell u2410 you are going to miss the card reader to read your camera's SD card. wink.gif

Anyway, full album is over here : https://picasaweb.google.com/quindor/Crossover27QSIPSMonitor?authuser=0&feat=directlink That link should work for everyone.

Photo I wanted to detail are the following :
399
and
399

You can clearly see where my thumbscrews digged into the PCB.... Currently the monitor is hanging only by the upper two thumbscrews which do seem to hold it snugly so I do not believe there will be a big problem.

Here is a comparison of the scews I used, not that much different but the mounting plate on the stand probably makes all the difference :
399

Further then that. I am quite satisfied with the monitor. The anti-blue color profile really does a good job! Without the picture is too blue for sure. Sadly it doesn't work in games and there doesn't seem to be a good solution to fix it either. Maybe sometime in the future? Or just adjust using only the nvidia controls, which is hard because I don't know what they changed in the profile.....

Anyway, if anyone wants to know anything or wants a photo of something, let me know!
Edited by Quindor - 4/23/12 at 4:59am
post #736 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaRLiToS View Post

Syrk, are you Red-Cap? biggrin.gif
Anyhow, I bought 3 from Red-Cap, no Dead Pixel, I just need the blue tint remover profile.

No, I'm not red-cap. He just asked me to pass on a little information. I did so because I thought it would be good to know for people that were worried about the possibility of getting a bad one.
post #737 of 6483
Got my 'lottery ticket' Crossover 27Q LED-P a bit over a week ago. Wanted to properly use and test this before posting here as usually the 1st impressions are flawed or at least slightly 'tinted' by the 'new and shiny' factor. Ordered from Red-Cap and delivery took approximately 2 weeks to Finland. Took 6 days from order to get tracking code after which delivery went fast including tax payment which increased the total cost to ~390e. For some reference point I've HP ZR24w as my 2nd screen and 21" BenQ TN panel as 3rd. (Obviously the TN panel is really bad compared to these IPS panels)

Picture
- Yellow tint starts from ½ the screen and gets steadily more intense on the way down. Really intense on bottom right corder. Clearly visible and most annoying on white backgrounds but slightly affects all but most darkest shades. (This is Worst thing about the screen and annoying on desktop use)
- Darker 4cm wide stripe/area 3cm from the bottom which runs the whole width of the screen. Visible on all but darker shades. (not a deal breaker)
- Slight IPS 'glow' on bottom right corder. Good overall.
- On some color shades with high contrast areas you can see ghost lines/trails. (hard to notice/explain. Non issue in normal use) *1

+ 0 dead or stuck pixels.
+ Monitor nor power brick doesnt 'buzz' at any screen colors/intensity. Both also operating on normal temperatures. *2
+ Close to non backlight bleeding. Just slightly at bottom right corner.
+ Overall black level is good. *2
+ Colors out of the box are really good. Gamma @2.2 and doesn't crush blacks or over saturate whites/colors.
+ Good white balance. (slightly on blue side)
+ Great response time and ghosting characteristics.
+ While gaming or watching video you cant notice the flaws of the screen which I previously listed and in those uses picture is amazing really.
+ Glass screen looks great compared to AG coated HP ZR24w and I am getting less reflection issues than I expected.

Other
- Came with one side of the box torn/crushed open. Bubble wrap was still ok (something really heave must have been on top of the box).
- Power brick didn't have any proper place in the shipment box so it had been freely bouncing against back of the monitor.
- Cord from monitor to power brick is so short that if monitor is not on right on the edge of the table the brick will hang ½ on the air. I have to run power cord ~10cm on the table so I had to tape the power brick to the side of the table leg.
- My ASUS 5850 do not show bios/boot picture but works in widows normally.
- Tried to OC but even 65Hz was too much and resulted black screen.
+ Stand is more then decent and height adjustment works great. Not tried pivot.

Bottom line
- If I'd seen this actual screen before buying it would have been a tough call. This is mostly because of the yellow tint from ½ the screen down. When I say this take in account that I'm picky about things like these and the slight yellow tint might even go unnoticed if looked over quickly. Its also one of those things which you notice easily after you know its there. As these are A- grade panels mine was clearly not passing as A+ because if the tinting. Combining mine and others experiences (I've red all posts in this thread and majority of other 27" threads) about these panels I'd still recommend buying the 'lottery ticket' and hoping for the best.

*1 Example: flat dark shaded background and white window on top of it fillin ½ the screen leaves white'ish tial next to the windows right side. This thin trail goes all the way to the edge of the screen. When you move the white window the trail moves with it obviously. (I dont know how to explain this properly but I've not seen anything like this on LCD screens and thought these issues were in the past when CRT monitors were phased out. I suspect poor quality controller board as cause).

*2 Backlight @ 2 steps up from lowest.
post #738 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tran View Post

Hello overclock.net
I was looking to purchase this monitor, i currently have a V243H monitor which is a 24 inch 1920x1080p monitor, and would like to get the Crossover 27Q to use as my main monitor and use the V243H monitor as a 2nd monitor. I currently get around 300 fps SSFIV benchmark and a consistent 60 fps in Diablo 3 both at max res and settings. How much of a decrease in FPS would you guys think i would get with the Crossover 27Q when playing games at 2560 x 1440 ?
Also would i be able to use the HD 3000 thats on the cpu for the 2nd monitor? and the Crossover 27Q with the gtx "470"?
Here are the specs of my main components :
-Intel Core i7 2600K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor
- GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard
-Vengeance Series 8GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800)
-OCZ GameXStream Power Supply 1010W
-PNY XLR8 GeForce GTX 465 Graphics card - 1 GB - GDDR5 SDRAM unlocked to a GTX 470.
What buyer did you get this from? Could i get a link please =)

Anyone? ^
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post #739 of 6483
@ locc

I bought 3 and I also notice the yellow tint you are talking about.
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Intel i7 4930k @ 4.6Ghz Asus Rampage IV Extreme (Koolance Full WB) 2 x GTX 1080ti FE in SLI (EK WATERBLOCK) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 MHz (16GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
3 TB Seagate OCZ Vertex 4 256GB Crucial M4 128GB ADATA SX900 128GB 
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RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
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post #740 of 6483
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaRLiToS View Post

I choose the Crossover because of their nice Pivot Stand, their great look and the quality of it. Also because people tends to get less bad pixel with the crossover. The Bezel is also pretty small.

I highly doubt that Crossovers get more or less bad panels than the other brands. It's really a lottery. I'll admit I did go after the crossover because I thought it had a less chance of getting a bad panel considering the overall build quality is just so much better than the others.
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