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post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by xflamin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

Yes, any charger that shows 12v DC output on it with at least 0.5a (for one CCFL inverter). You'd have to make the hookups by cutting the connector off the end, and splicing the wires.

Thanks for all your help. May look a little messier than I'd pictured, but it'll be working.

Doesn't have to be messy. wink.gif All depends on how you tackle the project. Plus, using a proper AC to DC adapter like that, will be a lot safer on your speakers, as you're not having to cut into those wires, and splice other stuff in there like a transistor. It'll be always on...but it will work and could be done cleanly.

You can also buy sound activated CCFL's as well, which would also work just fine using the same AC to DC method, which would blink with your bass as well. This would require the same "charger mod", but it would get you that blinking effect in that video...without having to hack up your speakers.
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post #12 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

Doesn't have to be messy. wink.gif All depends on how you tackle the project. Plus, using a proper AC to DC adapter like that, will be a lot safer on your speakers, as you're not having to cut into those wires, and splice other stuff in there like a transistor. It'll be always on...but it will work and could be done cleanly.
You can also buy sound activated CCFL's as well, which would also work just fine using the same AC to DC method, which would blink with your bass as well. This would require the same "charger mod", but it would get you that blinking effect in that video...without having to hack up your speakers.

Yea, these came with a sound module. I just wanted to power everything using the subwoofer, but I guess leds and cathodes use very different amounts of power.
post #13 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by xflamin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

Doesn't have to be messy. wink.gif All depends on how you tackle the project. Plus, using a proper AC to DC adapter like that, will be a lot safer on your speakers, as you're not having to cut into those wires, and splice other stuff in there like a transistor. It'll be always on...but it will work and could be done cleanly.
You can also buy sound activated CCFL's as well, which would also work just fine using the same AC to DC method, which would blink with your bass as well. This would require the same "charger mod", but it would get you that blinking effect in that video...without having to hack up your speakers.

Yea, these came with a sound module. I just wanted to power everything using the subwoofer, but I guess leds and cathodes use very different amounts of power.

Well, you COULD open up the subwoofer and use a multimeter, and find out if there's any constant +12v and ground in there anywhere. It'll be 1000x easier to just use a proper converter though.

And yeah, cathodes use 12v. LED's can use as little as 3.3v. Some might even use less, the least amount I know of is 3.3v though.
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post #14 of 18
Where do you plan on mounting these CCFL's at? More importantly the inverter? Keep in mind that you CANNOT extend the wires coming from the inverter and into the cathode tubes themselves. I tried it myself, and it doesn't work.

If you plan to mount them internally....you could always solder the AC end of the converter for the cathodes onto the AC input inside the subwoofer box. Keep all the cables inside the sub.

If you're mounting them externally, you could clean things up by getting the proper plugs so you don't have to hack up the converter cable. Use some heat shrink, zip ties, etc.
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post #15 of 18
Thread Starter 
I'm just mounting them under the subwoofers. There's 1 1/2" of clearance, so the sound module and inverter should fit as well.

Would stuffing the inverter and sound module inside the sub noticeably the acoustics though? That way I could just run the wires out the backside before going under.
post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by xflamin View Post

I'm just mounting them under the subwoofers. There's 1 1/2" of clearance, so the sound module and inverter should fit as well.

Would stuffing the inverter and sound module inside the sub noticeably the acoustics though? That way I could just run the wires out the backside before going under.

If that's the case, i'd just leave them fully external and just use some zip ties and heat shrink to keep your wiring clean.
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post #17 of 18
Thread Starter 
So I had some time to sleep on this and was just wondering if it'd be possible to wire this in parallel with the on/off controller extending from the subwoofer so that cutting the power in one place would cut it in the other despite being plugged in.

141
post #18 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by xflamin View Post

So I had some time to sleep on this and was just wondering if it'd be possible to wire this in parallel with the on/off controller extending from the subwoofer so that cutting the power in one place would cut it in the other despite being plugged in.

141

If you're wiring it into an AC circuit, yes. If you can find a 12v DC line coming from the subwoofer, that turns on and off with it....that would work fine as well without the charger.
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