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Issue with pump

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Recently finished my WC system I've just moved pushed it into my room (has wheels - th10) and now I've got condensation on the inside of my pump top (have a look at the pic it)....As you can see its only on the bottom pump which also started having strange start up issues after the 10m move - it will rotate like a 10th of an revolution and then stop and it will do this for 2 secs then start properly.

I Hope this just is the sanyo mod that i did on both DDC-1 pumps cutting the pumps power due to the moisture.


I've run a leek test for 6 days didn't have time to install windows, neither of these issues occurred until now during that time i check the pumps quite a bit and depressurised the system probably 25 times to help get bubbles out. There is no water leaking from the pump and i really would have never known if i didn't have a clear pump top all it is is a bit of condensation and a strange start...... at least to me smile.gif

Should I drain the system I've already done this one and really don't want to do it again in the one week or is it 'fine'.....
O and yes the pump is mounted in a small box try to deduce the noise! smile.gif
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post #2 of 4
I had this issue happen on a stock DDC. I ignored it and eventually enough condensation built up and got to the board in the bottom. This caused a short and fried the board. Did you swap to another stock board or use a DIYINHK replacement? I believe the DIYINHK have circuit protection, at least on one of them (Toshiba or Sanyo, don't remember which), so if a leak/short does happen, it won't fry the board.

My recommendation, drain the loop and reseat the top. Moving your system would not have caused this, but it may have happened when you replaced the top. In my situation, there was a tiny sliver of the pump housing between it on the o-ring, causing the minor leak.
 
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post #3 of 4
Looks like the o-ring was seated improperly. I would drain your loop as Butcher said, but afterwards apply some liquid before re-seating the pump tops (i use the same one btw, and 2 PowerAdjust 2s to regulate the pumps). It was a PITA to get it seated the way I like it, but also you might not have put enough torque on the screws that attach the pump top.

I would torque them down a fair amount until you can see the o-ring deforming a bit. (Pancaking) Mind you, not totally flat... as you will mostlikely break a pump housing, but just a bit of deflection.

Tighten them in a top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right pattern a bit at a time to make sure you are getting even pressure, I did about a half turn on each in this manner until I saw a bit of deflection and a good seal on the o-ring.
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteJM View Post

Looks like the o-ring was seated improperly. I would drain your loop as Butcher said, but afterwards apply some liquid before re-seating the pump tops (i use the same one btw, and 2 PowerAdjust 2s to regulate the pumps). It was a PITA to get it seated the way I like it, but also you might not have put enough torque on the screws that attach the pump top.
I would torque them down a fair amount until you can see the o-ring deforming a bit. (Pancaking) Mind you, not totally flat... as you will mostlikely break a pump housing, but just a bit of deflection.
Tighten them in a top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right pattern a bit at a time to make sure you are getting even pressure, I did about a half turn on each in this manner until I saw a bit of deflection and a good seal on the o-ring.

If you look at the top pic you will see that the seal looks good it looks far better than the top pump! I replaced the pump o ring on this pump with one i got of Aquatunning since the original one I bought didn't seem to get a complete seal even after excessive tighten! so I'm quite surprised that there is and leak issues on this pump!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher View Post

I had this issue happen on a stock DDC. I ignored it and eventually enough condensation built up and got to the board in the bottom. This caused a short and fried the board. Did you swap to another stock board or use a DIYINHK replacement? I believe the DIYINHK have circuit protection, at least on one of them (Toshiba or Sanyo, don't remember which), so if a leak/short does happen, it won't fry the board.
My recommendation, drain the loop and reseat the top. Moving your system would not have caused this, but it may have happened when you replaced the top. In my situation, there was a tiny sliver of the pump housing between it on the o-ring, causing the minor leak.

Ya it's the DIYINHK ones that have the protection....... I'm fairly certain it was the move that cause the leak I checked the pump tons of time over the 6 days of leak test and there was no condensation!
I think I'll run it for a week if the condensation is still there and I'm still seeing the pump playing up I'll remove it all and drain the loop..... wow i wish i had added a drain point lol redface.gif
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
3930k w/ XSPC raystorm @ 4.8Ghz Rampage Extreme 4 w/ EK WB HD 7970 w/ EK WB Parallel HD 7970 w/ EK WB Parallel 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
32GB of Mushkin PC3-14900 1866mhz 9-10-9-27 Red... Seagate 1tb x2 raid 0 M4 256gb SSD 2tb WD Green 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung External SE-208 Phobya v.2 480 x 3 Phobya v1.2 480  Dual XSPC top w/ 2 x DDC -1 pump w/ DIYINHK Pum... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x AC AQ5 lt w/ WB's 64bit windows 7 pro Samsung 2443BW+ Sidewinder X6 
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