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PSU broken after WC Bock change? - Page 2

post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
After getting smoke from one of the graphic cards I and the mobo seemed dead I took the 1156 mobo from htpc and installed that. The computer started but BSOD after 5 minutes of gaming and would'nt start again so I switched to my old 260 gtx card and then everything worked fine. Managed to kill 2 560ti graphic cards and a p5p55d deluxe motherboard. Must have been some coolant shortcircuting everything but none of the components were wet or moist. Lesson learned and im done with WC builds.

Luckily a shop downtown had 680 in store so i purchased one of them for a ok price. 680 is stronger than 560ti sli.
 
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post #12 of 18
Bad luck sir. thinking.gif

No offense meant in the slightest but I think the moral of the story is to have power completely disconnected from Mainboard when filling your system. mellowsmiley.gif

I would still do the WC'ing but just consider this an expensive lesson learned? guiltysmiley.gif

If you decide to stick to it(hope you do), try to dry fit everything first. Keep power completely disconnected from anything that doesn't need power while you bleed your loop and then when you're reasonably certain you're not having problems let your loop run for a couple of hours just to make sure. That's how I'm gonna do it anyway. Can't afford to be replacing everything in the event an oops like yours happens. blinksmiley.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #13 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Keep power completely disconnected from anything that doesn't need power while you bleed your loop and then when you're reasonably certain you're not having problems let your loop run for a couple of hours just to make sure. That's how I'm gonna do it anyway. Can't afford to be replacing everything in the event an oops like yours happens.

Personally, I keep a second PSU around just for this kind of thing, and it's what I would recommend for safety. Run nothing but the pump on the PSU, and leave it sitting outside the case, so that in the event of a leak you're not going to hit anything that has power running to it. I like to do an 8 hour leak test after I've got the system bled, some people will swear by 24 hours and others will call an hour or two good enough, but no matter the length, some testing with only the pump powered is recommended.

@oglommi: It's definitely not a fun lesson to learn the first time you damage hardware, so you have my sympathies, but hopefully you've learned your lesson. In the event of any failure, water cooling or not, you want to thoroughly inspect everything to be certain you don't cause further damage.
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post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakageta View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Keep power completely disconnected from anything that doesn't need power while you bleed your loop and then when you're reasonably certain you're not having problems let your loop run for a couple of hours just to make sure. That's how I'm gonna do it anyway. Can't afford to be replacing everything in the event an oops like yours happens.

Personally, I keep a second PSU around just for this kind of thing, and it's what I would recommend for safety. Run nothing but the pump on the PSU, and leave it sitting outside the case, so that in the event of a leak you're not going to hit anything that has power running to it. I like to do an 8 hour leak test after I've got the system bled, some people will swear by 24 hours and others will call an hour or two good enough, but no matter the length, some testing with only the pump powered is recommended.

@oglommi: It's definitely not a fun lesson to learn the first time you damage hardware, so you have my sympathies, but hopefully you've learned your lesson. In the event of any failure, water cooling or not, you want to thoroughly inspect everything to be certain you don't cause further damage.

Yeah we have a few PSU around here too. I have one sitting on the table now that I use to test my pumps. Broke down an got a connector for the jumper wire I made specially for connecting the black and green connections, so it cost me maybe a buck an a quarter to construct it. Don't really need a massive amount of drawable power for a simple pump though. Thanks for adding that cause I forgot to. Some people don't have more than one so I didn't think to add that. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #15 of 18
Thread Starter 
Yeah maybe I will WC again but that will be after an system update. But since there is only about 200-300 MHz to be gained by costum WC vs H60 on my I7-870 it not really worth the effort to putting the mobo psu gpu etc back into the case with the WC build.

On a another note will corsair xms3 2000mhz 1.65v work on socket 2011? they are
 
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post #16 of 18
Hafta say it's ALWAYS worth the hassle.

Y u ask? mellowsmiley.gif

Cause when you upgrade your system your cooling is always a concern and in the long run u save money over buying a new CPU cooler with every upgrade. You're less likely to sell your water cooling kit (unless you upgrade) than you are an all in one or a high end heatsink. wink.gif

At least I know I wouldn't. biggrin.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #17 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Cause when you upgrade your system your cooling is always a concern and in the long run u save money over buying a new CPU cooler with every upgrade. You're less likely to sell your water cooling kit (unless you upgrade) than you are an all in one or a high end heatsink. wink.gif

A new mounting kit and a new GPU block and you're always ready to go, with better cooling than air will ever provide. tongue.gif One of my radiators has seen use on 4 generations of processors over several years, and it served a friend of mine for a few years before that. Of course, being that old it's not using the nice standard screws that everything uses now, but hey, it still cools wonderfully. Water cooling isn't for everyone, but mine has certainly been a solid investment over the years. I cringed when I had to make do with my Hyper 212+ and stock GPU cooling on my sig rig, but I just wasn't ready to decommission the Q9550 when I built this one, so it had to wait until I could scrounge up some good budget parts for water.
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post #18 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakageta View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Cause when you upgrade your system your cooling is always a concern and in the long run u save money over buying a new CPU cooler with every upgrade. You're less likely to sell your water cooling kit (unless you upgrade) than you are an all in one or a high end heatsink. wink.gif

A new mounting kit and a new GPU block and you're always ready to go, with better cooling than air will ever provide. tongue.gif One of my radiators has seen use on 4 generations of processors over several years, and it served a friend of mine for a few years before that. Of course, being that old it's not using the nice standard screws that everything uses now, but hey, it still cools wonderfully. Water cooling isn't for everyone, but mine has certainly been a solid investment over the years. I cringed when I had to make do with my Hyper 212+ and stock GPU cooling on my sig rig, but I just wasn't ready to decommission the Q9550 when I built this one, so it had to wait until I could scrounge up some good budget parts for water.

Yup, an if you go with universal block it's even simpler. Just have to make sure to put the stock cooler in the box for resale value. biggrin.gif

At worst u buy another radiator at best a bracket for CPU platform change. i.e. AMD to Intel or vice versa. That's why I like EK though. You get all that in the box an a universal backplate to boot. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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