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Drain system for WC loop, ideas?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
My idea is to create a drainage system by putting a y block and closing up a hole with a screw, then when I want to drain it, simply open the plug and have a bowl underneath. Anyone have any ideas why this shouldnt work?

420

Green: RX360 and EX240 RAD
Blue: GPU
RED: CPU
yellow: Res/pump

My idea would be to put this y block between the GPU and 240 rad, and plug it up with one of the things below.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15888

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13477

Using this fitting

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18299
post #2 of 7
Will definitely work but might not be the most convenient way to do it. I'd personally want to avoid having to put the bowl inside my case. It would be a lot safer and neater to have a tube extending from the T or Y so you can have the drain outside the case so you don't have to worry about spills. You could also put a quick disconnect on the drain hole with a matching extension tube if you don't want dead-end tubing hanging out when it's not used.
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post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

Will definitely work but might not be the most convenient way to do it. I'd personally want to avoid having to put the bowl inside my case. It would be a lot safer and neater to have a tube extending from the T or Y so you can have the drain outside the case so you don't have to worry about spills. You could also put a quick disconnect on the drain hole with a matching extension tube if you don't want dead-end tubing hanging out when it's not used.

Ahh true good idea about the disconnect thing, thanks.

So have it like this:

---= Tube
Y= y fitting
Q= quick disconnect

Y
Q
And I can detach a tube from Q to drain.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1275&products_id=11734

Would that be fine? Also how do I attach the tube, does it attach to the quick disconnected or do I need to buy an adapter/barb fitting...

EDIT:

Or are these two better? (They also cost $20 more...)

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17892
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17893
Edited by Klinkey - 3/29/12 at 11:35pm
post #4 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klinkey View Post

Ahh true good idea about the disconnect thing, thanks.
So have it like this:
---= Tube
Y= y fitting
Q= quick disconnect
Y
Q
And I can detach a tube from Q to drain.
I had to load your post in the reply editor to see how you had this since text graphics never comes through correctly when the post formats. But don't do it that way! The idea of a Y is to split the flow coming in the stem (bottom of the Y) into two streams leaving out the arms (top half), or the opposite, join two streams coming in the top so they both flow together out the bottom. If you have one of the arms as an input and the other arm as an output you will mess up the flow since the water will have a very difficult turn trying to get back up the other arm.

I've been wondering why you chose a Y instead of a T (the stem of the T would be the drain output) for a similar reason since when it comes time to drain, the flow coming out the other arm of the Y will be a bit blocked trying to make that sharp turn. It's probably not as significant as when the pump is running since gravity will take over but IMO a T would be better.

Quote:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_300_1275&products_id=11734
Would that be fine? Also how do I attach the tube, does it attach to the quick disconnected or do I need to buy an adapter/barb fitting...

Definitely do NOT use this for a drain port! The D-plugs will come apart easily but they are intended for spanning short spaces between video cards or other components to allow small tweaks to the distance between, and do NOT include any kind of valve.
The koolance QD's are what I was thinking of but you don't need the version 4, which are the largest and heaviest they make, since this isn't an active part of your loop thus flow rate doesn't matter. V3 will be fine.
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post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

I had to load your post in the reply editor to see how you had this since text graphics never comes through correctly when the post formats. But don't do it that way! The idea of a Y is to split the flow coming in the stem (bottom of the Y) into two streams leaving out the arms (top half), or the opposite, join two streams coming in the top so they both flow together out the bottom. If you have one of the arms as an input and the other arm as an output you will mess up the flow since the water will have a very difficult turn trying to get back up the other arm.
I've been wondering why you chose a Y instead of a T (the stem of the T would be the drain output) for a similar reason since when it comes time to drain, the flow coming out the other arm of the Y will be a bit blocked trying to make that sharp turn. It's probably not as significant as when the pump is running since gravity will take over but IMO a T would be better.

Definitely do NOT use this for a drain port! The D-plugs will come apart easily but they are intended for spanning short spaces between video cards or other components to allow small tweaks to the distance between, and do NOT include any kind of valve.
The koolance QD's are what I was thinking of but you don't need the version 4, which are the largest and heaviest they make, since this isn't an active part of your loop thus flow rate doesn't matter. V3 will be fine.

Thanks, my problem is though all of these connecters are nickel plated and I have a kill coil, apparently it causes corrosion
post #6 of 7
Silver does have a relatively small potential for corrosion with copper, brass, and nickel but as everyone is saying in your other thread you can easily manage it with additives, or just don't use the kill coil at all and go with a few drops of biocide. If you keep your loop clean and replace the coolant every six months or so you will be fine. Pretty much all fittings are made of brass and plated with something or other.
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post #7 of 7
You could also have a tube coming out of one of the graphics card block holes , since they have 4 holes , and you only need 2 to make it work
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