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Worried about galvanic corrosion - Page 2

post #11 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klinkey View Post

Can't, believe it or not, I cannot find a T port in australia.

If you cant find a T-Port, simply put a L junction at the lowest part of your rig where you can feasably put a bucket. Whenever you need to drain your loop, pop it off and SHABAM you have your air in and water out smile.gif

I however use 2 brass ball valves. One at the top of my loop (Filler Valve) and one at the bottom of the rad on the lowest point of my loop (Drain Valve). Both are linked to Y Junctions so I can easily disconnect them and plug them if I ever feel the need.

As a addition, If you stick to Brass - Silver - Copper, you will never really see any corrosion. I have nickel in my system on my NB/MOSFET block, and it has been running for 6 months without an issue and no corrosion. I however use straight distilled, mayhems biocide, and mayhems dye. No killcoil.
post #12 of 23
I was running a kill coil but I will be switching to Copper Sulfate very shortly. The only nickel in my system is a couple fittings so I'm not too worried about corrosion. My main reason for switching is the kill coil keeps getting sucked straight up against my res outlet, dances around and makes lots of noise.
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post #13 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klinkey View Post

Can't, believe it or not, I cannot find a T port in australia.

All the specialized watercooling fittings manufacturers make multiple versions of brass or acrylic T blocks. It is indeed strange that they aren't stocked down under since it's such a commonly used item.

You could easily cobble one together by getting a Q-block and closing off one side with a stop fitting. Or head to a general hardware store that has a good plumbing section. They should have very inexpensive plastic T's with 1/2" hose fittings, although they won't look as nice.
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post #14 of 23
The reason you can't use BARE aluminum and copper is because these two elements create an oxidation reaction (corrosion). Nickel is OK to use as long as the plating is thick enough. If it is not you will crack the plating and expose the metal underneath which is most likely some sort of alloy. Probably a steel fitting, which will also cause an oxidation reaction.
Brass (a copper tin alloy IIRC) + copper + silver should never oxidize since copper and silver have antibacterial properties naturally. Note: this is dependent on the water. Distilled is a must since it won't have any impurities (electrolytes and other minerals).
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post #15 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post

The reason you can't use BARE aluminum and copper is because these two elements create an oxidation reaction (corrosion). Nickel is OK to use as long as the plating is thick enough. If it is not you will crack the plating and expose the metal underneath which is most likely some sort of alloy. Probably a steel fitting, which will also cause an oxidation reaction.
Brass (a copper tin alloy IIRC) + copper + silver should never oxidize since copper and silver have antibacterial properties naturally. Note: this is dependent on the water. Distilled is a must since it won't have any impurities (electrolytes and other minerals).

You can actually get galvanic corrosion from nickel and silver. If the two metals were in direct contact, you'd look at their anodic index, but since they're not in direct contact and in contact via your water, I believe you'd look at their standard electrode potential, which has nickel and silver pretty far apart. The thicker the nickel plating, the longer it will take for the reaction to be noticeable, which is why on thinly plated blocks it can happen somewhat quickly, but it's something I'd personally avoid if possible.
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post #16 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakageta View Post

You can actually get galvanic corrosion from nickel and silver. If the two metals were in direct contact, you'd look at their anodic index, but since they're not in direct contact and in contact via your water, I believe you'd look at their standard electrode potential, which has nickel and silver pretty far apart. The thicker the nickel plating, the longer it will take for the reaction to be noticeable, which is why on thinly plated blocks it can happen somewhat quickly, but it's something I'd personally avoid if possible.

^this
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post #17 of 23
I stumbled on this post last week but couldn't find the link I wanted to post at the time.
if you are concerned about galvanic corrosion and know essentially nothing about it (like I did) then I absolutely recommend you read this from martinsliquidlab.org
Galvanic Corrosion Explored
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

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post #18 of 23
I stumbled on this post last week but couldn't find the link I wanted to post at the time.
if you are concerned about galvanic corrosion and know essentially nothing about it (like I did) then I absolutely recommend you read this from martinsliquidlab.org
Galvanic Corrosion Explored
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/

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post #19 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by opt33 View Post

Per Koolance web site here
Quote:
Use of 3rd-party replacement parts, coolants, or coolant additives will void this warranty.
liquid utopia that you linked to would be fine for corrosion inhibitors, except it voids the warranty for Koolance nickel, so like Martin said, if you want to maintain the warranty have to stick with same brand coolant.
I think manufacturers need to make nickel plating on outside of blocks only, and leave bare copper for areas in contact with cooling fluid. Mass produced, cheap, thin nickel plating is only useful for aesthetics anyways, so for blocks other than clear acrylic, it makes no sense to use cheap nickel plating. Nickel plating is only good at reducing corrosion/oxidation if plated at 20+ microns with some type of hardening and proper prep work which apparently is difficult to maintain at the price point. Cheap 4-8 micron thick platings doesn't qualify for anything other than looks, and often even that doesnt last long in our loops, and in cases only weeks.

Impossible. There are too many customers with aluminum radiators. Since Nickel plating is OK to use with copper AND aluminum (separately obviously), they may as well do it.
post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by lol12ek View Post

Impossible. There are too many customers with aluminum radiators. Since Nickel plating is OK to use with copper AND aluminum (separately obviously), they may as well do it.

Are you saying it is impossible to have nickel on outside and copper on inside of waterblocks, because nickel is better with aluminum? You do realize they already make full copper gpu and cpu waterblocks, no different.

And who spends $$$ on nickel plated waterblocks, but then cheaps out and buys an aluminum rad? All the kits using aluminum rads use cheap copper waterblocks, they sure arent nickel plated.

I would think the only people using aluminum rads, would be those using cheap kits, which again have copper blocks not nickel plated, and those going cheap using old rads, who arent going to be buying nickel plated blocks. And if so, they should wise up and spend money on a copper/brass rad first. Not to mention as quickly as nickel plating fails on many of them exposing copper...
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