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Corsair H100 / H80 / H60 noise, grinding pump - *fix* + official Corsair response - Page 115

post #1141 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

streetwolf - the noise isn't normal and shouldn't be there, if the noise comes back more and more frequently (i.e. the time between occurrences becomes shorter) it might indicate the bearing wear, so keep an eye on it.
I don't think the noise is coming from anywhere else but the pump itself. It may seem so because the hoses, coolant and the whole chassis will resonate the sound.

The thing is the noise is becoming more infrequent. Where it occurred every 5 minutes or so it now occurs maybe once an hour for a few minutes, sometimes it's quiet for two hours.

So the problem has to do with the bearing in the unit? This might explain why banging on my case might quiet the noise. Maybe I'm realigning things for the moment rolleyes.gif The noise I hear sounds like static coming from an old TV set. It's not a buzz or a whine, or a high pitch sound as others have stated it was, then again sound can be subjective.

I agree if the noise does emanate from my H100 it's not a good thing. After reading that folks are getting replacements that in some cases seem to be even worse than the H100 they are replacing doesn't give me that warm fuzzy feeling. Usually defective things have lot numbers, serial numbers to identify the defective units. Almost sounds like it wasn't a bad batch of H100's but a design problem from the get go which possibly has not been resolved to the extent that getting a replacement will definitely fix the problem.

I'll probably go with a replacement with fingers crossed. Is removing the old unit as simple as just unscrewing the retaining screws and radiator? Am I correct it assuming I can leave the back plane as is and just attach the new H1000 to it?. Can I use Isotropy alcohol to remove the thermal paste on the CPU?

Thanks.
post #1142 of 1734
Thread Starter 
Yes, you are right, the problem is as old as the new Hydro series coolers themselves, so about a year now. It is a flaw probably more in manufacture than in design, although there is a number of other design flaws.

As far as RMA goes, you have to return the whole kit, including fans, and most likely the backplate too. You can verify that by calling the Customer Care.

I think it enters a state of resonance when a number of conditions is fulfilled, including rotational speed of the pump and shaft/bearing looseness, so you can not only "kick" it out of the state, but into the state as well. Probably a few taps when it's silent will make it start rattling.

Yes, you can use the isopropanol to clean off the old TIM.
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post #1143 of 1734
What do you guys think of this post I found over at the Corsair Cooling forum? Any merit to it?

"I found a fix! the buzzing is to do with dirty power being fed over the 12 volt molex basically the pump is very sensitive to voltage fluctuation so the increase and decrease of voltage messes the balance of the bearing up and it vibrates. I put a ferrite core around my molex connector and it filtered out the noisy current and it runs silent. I tested it in several places including at the base of my power supply and on-top of the unit. you have to restart the pc before it works. Tnis is what the diode fix does but obviously this fix is alot easier as you can buy ferrite cores in any electronic store. HOPE THIS HELPS "

Looking back at when I heard my first noise I did move the Molex connector around a bit to reduce some case clutter right before. I seemed to have tucked under a very thick cable which looks like a cable from a PSU. So I wonder if this guys onto something.

This might be crazy but not having any Cores at my disposal I do have lots of cables that have the cylinder thing on them that I think act like Cores. So I removed them from a cable and taped two of them on either side of the Molex connector. I also moved it away from other cables. I haven't heard any noise but it is way too early to claim success using this method.
Edited by streetwolf - 8/23/12 at 3:52pm
post #1144 of 1734
Thread Starter 
This is one of the things that I have suggested quite a long time ago, first at the forums, then when talking to their engineers - that the voltage noise might be screwing with the motor, which was why I suggested that it would be worth looking into the effect that changing the PWM clock might have on this issue. Their answer was, quote, "It’s looking like this could be a shaft/bearing tolerance issue, if that’s the case changing the PWM frequency (by mod’ing C3 on the pump stator) will not have an effect.", end of quote.
So that's not really news to me.

Also the ferrite core has nothing in common with how the diode fix works. A ferrite core will filter (by absorbing it) high frequency voltage changes, the diode lowers the voltage and that's all it does.

I said exactly this in my dialog with George and the engineers:
Quote:
[about my ideas of the root cause of the problem and solutions] One of them is to try changing the default PWM clock (25kHZ) to a higher value, such as 30kHz (by changing the C3 capacitor on the pump assembly PCB) as I think that would prove if the voltage noise/ripple is a factor or not - many PSU DC-DC converters operate with similar PWM clock so maybe the BLDC motor is resonating from the voltage noise superimposed on the PWM base frequency.
That's just a theory, but since it's so easy to verify, I would start there.
But I never received the units I was supposed to, to test this and other things on, so I couldn't. They also didn't do it, because the bearing issue was blamed for everything and the conversation was cut off.

Fell free to correct that guy or link him here.
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post #1145 of 1734
Would you recommend using the diode with the revised H100 just to be on the safe side?
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post #1146 of 1734
Thread Starter 
If it works, i.e. it solves the noise problem, then you are safe to use it.
If it doesn't help (one or two diodes in series), then there's no reason to use it.

A diode+filter adapter could be easily made, but I have nowhere to test it at this point. And unless someone donates an H100 to science, which we know will not happen, I won't.

The fan controller part of the H80 and H100 has its own filter, but the pump assembly on the H60, H80 and H100 doesn't as far as I recall, the data is on my PC which is currently dead so I can't look into it.
But like I said it would be easy to incorporate it into the adapter.
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post #1147 of 1734
by filter, you refer to ferrite core?

P.S. - yesterday you mentioned Bruce, the mean dude :]
how can he help me with the temp issues I experience with the revised H100?

EDIT: Very strange... my temps are at ~33deg when Vcore is 1.22/1.4/0.89 all in idle... what does that mean? Volts should alter the temps
Edited by Gil80 - 8/23/12 at 7:41pm
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post #1148 of 1734
Thread Starter 
There are many ways to make a low pass filter - a ferrite bead is a good one, a capacitor would probably work as well.

MeanBruce, well, he has the same CPU and the same cooler, maybe he'll tell you his secret of very low temps smile.gif
Me, in turn, I don't know much about Ivy.
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post #1149 of 1734
Just received this today, here's hoping the pump is quiet on this revision.


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post #1150 of 1734
Welp, I guess returning a recalled "SandyBridge" laptop and noisy pump on H100 pisses of Amazon.

They just banned me and took $50 of Gift Card balance right after they took $40 for a Prime Renewal.
They refunded my Prime and GCB.

Out of like 60+ orders from 2011+ I returned 5 things. 2 above, 2 mis-advertised products, and a defective lava lamp (if its cloudy.. what is the point of it?).

In fact, the replacement H100 i got from them was again, noisy, but I kept it because I didn't feel like trying my luck again.

Just a buyer beware: RMA to Corsair, not Amazon.

Quote:
Hello,

A careful review of your account indicates that you've requested refunds on a majority of your orders for a variety of reasons.

In the normal course of business, we expect there may be occasional problems. However, the rate at which such problems have occurred on your account is extraordinary, and it cannot continue. Effective immediately, your Amazon.com account is closed, and you will no longer be able to shop in our store.

All other accounts related to yours have also been closed. If you were to open a new account, it would also be closed. We will not accept the return of any additional orders placed under a new account, and we won't issue further refunds for those orders. We appreciate your cooperation.


Going forward, any questions must be directed to cis@amazon.com. Please do not contact Amazon's Customer Service department, as they will no longer be able to assist you.

Best regards,

Account Specialist

Edited by kennyparker1337 - 8/24/12 at 2:12pm
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