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Corsair H100 / H80 / H60 noise, grinding pump - *fix* + official Corsair response - Page 127

post #1261 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

Oh okay, I confused you with someone else, sorry.
And yes, you can mount the H100 in a 600T without offsetting it to the side, but you put the radiator inside and the fans above it, under the top cover. I did that myself. It's a good idea to cut the plastic cross-beams from the top cover because they block most of the air flow.

I guess I spoke too soon. I have the hard drive activity noise coming from the pump now. It is the date code of 12299403 too... so it is only 5 weeks old, but still has the same problem. I can not make it go away by tapping it and 2 diodes only make it a lot worse. I expect it to go full on grinding after a couple weeks. It is really annoying... loudest thing in my case.

Oh and I relocated the H100 radiator to the top of 600t. I did indeed have to offset it toward the side panel though to clear Corsair Vengeance RAM and actually had to bend part of the Vengeance RAM's heatsink so the the fan blades would spin properly and not get hung up.
post #1262 of 1734
Check your mounting. I thought my last unit was faulty but after checking the mounting and realising that it was slightly loose, which caused it to vibrate and sound like hdd activity noise, I wiggled the mount and tightened it and it's been dead silent since.
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post #1263 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by AerieAngel View Post

Then you got lucky and it occured while nothing was being used in cache or at least nothing that was being changed. The nature of RAM disks are in themselves volatile. I agree there are great speed improvements, but that doesn't negate the risk. Though if there wasn't some risk there wouldn't be any improvement of speed. The software could be double writing, but that would defeat the purpose.

I'll put an UPS into the circuit just to be safe, the speed is addictive. Thanks man.thumb.gif
    
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post #1264 of 1734
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanBruce View Post

Hey guys, this info is probably better suited for another thread, but I really don’t come here much just to say hi to wlw_wl once in a while.
wave2.gifcheers.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by AerieAngel View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

Oh okay, I confused you with someone else, sorry.
And yes, you can mount the H100 in a 600T without offsetting it to the side, but you put the radiator inside and the fans above it, under the top cover. I did that myself. It's a good idea to cut the plastic cross-beams from the top cover because they block most of the air flow.

I guess I spoke too soon. I have the hard drive activity noise coming from the pump now. It is the date code of 12299403 too... so it is only 5 weeks old, but still has the same problem. I can not make it go away by tapping it and 2 diodes only make it a lot worse. I expect it to go full on grinding after a couple weeks. It is really annoying... loudest thing in my case.

Oh and I relocated the H100 radiator to the top of 600t. I did indeed have to offset it toward the side panel though to clear Corsair Vengeance RAM and actually had to bend part of the Vengeance RAM's heatsink so the the fan blades would spin properly and not get hung up.
Or try mounting the CPU block rotated by 90 degrees to either side and see if that changes anything.
Edited by wlw wl - 9/1/12 at 4:50pm
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post #1265 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

wave2.gifcheers.gif
Or try mounting the CPU block rotated by 90 degrees to either side and see if that changes anything.

hmm... as of right now the HDD activity sound is not going. I have had it running for a couple hours with the radiator mounted in the top. I think there is something with mounting it in the front or otherwise below the pump as there is no way to bleed or see how much liquid is actually in the unit so it may be pulling air from the top of the radiator in those situations.

I currently have the unit mounted so that the corsair logo is upright and the tubing comes out toward the front of the case.
post #1266 of 1734
Oh and something worth noting to everyone...
Apparently the new units run at 1800 rpm according to BIOS readings whereas the older ones it was like 2000 2230 or greater on mine and some other people's.

UPDATE:
Apparently that was a wrong reading. It appears to be 2166 rpm almost always with a slight bump up to 2170 or 2180 very occasionally. Still below the old ones though.
Edited by AerieAngel - 9/1/12 at 5:29pm
post #1267 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanBruce View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

This is very strange... I've connected the H100 fans in pull. Before it was push... but the temps will not change no matter if it's pull or push and high RPM or not... I'm using RealTemp.
How can this be???
also, I just got new 2 cougar vortex fans and they have this annoying grinding noise... I have no luck with cooling devices...


Don't know Gil, this is mine at 4.2Ghz/2133Mhz Vcore is 1.282 and Pull-Intake:

Untitled6-1.png

Could move your rig to a colder portion of your office or room where the refrigerated air exhausts out and direct it straight into the top of your chassis, that might help bro.

Why do my two inner cores run so hot and my outer cores so much cooler, is that just the physical nature of the Ivy nano-topography? Does everyone's 3770K follow this same pattern? weird...

Try this hardware monitor Gil, and see what you come up with:

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

Hi Bruce.

The temps you are showing are for idle.
This is less of a concern to me.
What are your temps in load?
And if you are running at 4.2 with 1.282 then you can go up to 4.5 without increasing heat.

I run at 4.5 with 1.216 Vcore and we have the same CPU and I think the same motherboard.

I find hard to believe that the fans has no affect on the radiator. I lost my confidende in H100 altogether now.

I will either buy thermaltake extreme or coolermaster eisberg in the future.
The only cavett is that the Antec P280 is mid tower.
The H100 radiator with fans is 5cm. I have only 0.5cm of space between the fans and the MB. Any thicker radiator and I'm seriously stuck.

P.S. I have set my case for positive air pressure. Only the back fan is exhaust. I bought 2 new Cougar vortex fans and they are loud as f***. Don't buy them.

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post #1268 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

Hello!
UPDATE:
For official Corsair response start here and read on.
Official instructions on how to apply for a selective RMA (advanced RMA available per request) here.
Big thanks to CorsairGeorge for speaking up and out!
/update
I'm new here but I've heard from a long-time user s1rrah that there might be some people here interested in fixing their noisy Corsair Hydro coolers.
Some of those units make HDD-like grinding or rattling noise, if you have one you know what I'm talking about.
The simplest cure to that noise is to slow down the pump a bit so the impeller stops rattling. Mind you that this is only patching the symptom of an underlaying issue, one that neither me or you can address at present.
Update: check out the CorsairGeorge's posts in this thread, link at the beginning of this post. The cause has been confirmed to be a shaft/bearing issue which results in rattle under certain circumstances (which I will humbly mention that I have suggested some months ago here), one of them being the voltage to speed correlation, and that is why the diode adapter works - because it slows the pump and puts it out of that resonance/rattle RPM range, without impacting the cooling performance.
The issue had been fixed and the new, corrected units are being delivered to Corsair locations.
/update
There are several methods do fix that.
One is to use a big 4-pin Molex fan controller in case of H100 or H80, or motherboard's fan header in case of H60.
Another, that is my idea, is to use an adapter, dubbed the "voltage dropper" by the Corsair forum's community, to lower the voltage a little. This is equivalent to running the unit off of a fan controller set to about 90%.
How is it done? Plain and simple - a rectifying diode soldered in series with +12V line, encased as a male Molex to female Molex pass-through. Or as a 4-pin Molex to 3-pin fan header for H60. Just mind the diode's polarity!
The thing looks like this:
http://i39.tinypic.com/72vvns.jpg
(ed: or more recently like this: http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e1/e12e487e_9.jpeg)
and is smaller and easier to conceal than a fan controller. And you can sleeve it etc. Also, unlike transistor-based fan controller or a resistor-based adapter, there is no heat generated from this one.
That is the very first I made, later revisions had the +5V and one GND wires removed so they can be easily told apart from any other adapters.
One diode handles up to 1A forward current, so if you have H100 with 4 strong fans, you might need two diodes in parallel.
The only question left is - what diode one should use?
The simple answer is: any one from the 1N4001 to 1N4007 range. I'm using 1N4001 and it's working in about 90% of the cases or more, hard to keep track of all the droppers I've already sent and those that people made themselves to my guidance.
I also tried Schottky diodes, 1N5817 and 1N5819, but they didn't work with the H100 I had. Fine without fans, still grinding when 2 fans were attached. That's because the forward voltage of those diodes is lower.
I've already made and sent tens of those all over the world (North and South America, Australia, Japan, France, Germany, UK and Italy just to name a few) including s1rrah, and like I've said already, they work in >90% of the cases.
When this will not work is if your cooler is one of the somewhat rarer units that will keep on grinding unless slowed down to 1700RPM and below (from original ~2000RPM). If you combine such a unit with a common 12,3V PSU, one diode is simply not enough. And although there are positive reports, I generally do not encourage running the unit at speeds lower than 1800RPM, and some will keep grinding even below 1700RPM.
So go ahead and try that if you have a noisy Hydro cooler.
If you can't or don't want to make it yourself, you can contact me. I've been sending them for weeks every week now, and when I gather 5-10 people and send a batch away.
The discussion started on Corsair's support forum here:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=97733
I chimed in around page 15 with my findings and solution. As of now it has 32 pages, 467 posts, 57,000 views (update: over 100,000 now, the thread has been closed) and there are numerous cases where people have been RMAing their noisy units 3 or 4 times in a row to no avail, and the mod worked for them and they could finally enjoy their cooler.
If you need more in-depth guidance, feel free to ask.
You can find a detailed photo step-by-step guide in my albums and my sig.
ED: update #2

MAY CONSIDER it when i buy a brand new H80 this fall but i doubt it'll be noisy. I am hearing impaired so that's a dilemma but will that be a problem?
post #1269 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

I find hard to believe that the fans has no affect on the radiator. I lost my confidende in H100 altogether now.
He was only saying that he saw no difference in temps between having the fans in a push configuration vs a pull configuration which makes sense. It is moving the same amount of air. People like to think that cool air force onto things is the only way to cool them and it is hard to think that just simply moving air away from the area draws in ambient as well. The air has got to go somewhere hehe.

As far as fans go I recommend using the Corsair SP120 Performance fans. They are perfect fans for radiators and they come with an optional low voltage adapter that is slick looking (all black and heatshrinked) to reduce the fan speed if you don't have a controller... or if you want to use the controller at significantly lower ranges.
post #1270 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by AerieAngel View Post

He was only saying that he saw no difference in temps between having the fans in a push configuration vs a pull configuration which makes sense. It is moving the same amount of air. People like to think that cool air force onto things is the only way to cool them and it is hard to think that just simply moving air away from the area draws in ambient as well. The air has got to go somewhere hehe.
As far as fans go I recommend using the Corsair SP120 Performance fans. They are perfect fans for radiators and they come with an optional low voltage adapter that is slick looking (all black and heatshrinked) to reduce the fan speed if you don't have a controller... or if you want to use the controller at significantly lower ranges.

Hi,

I'm not talking about the fan configuration only. I say that regardless of the RPM, the temp stays the same.
I bought fans that are designed for radiators in mind - Noctua NF-12F they are amazing fans... ugly.... but amazing smile.gif
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