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Corsair H100 / H80 / H60 noise, grinding pump - *fix* + official Corsair response - Page 134

post #1331 of 1734
Electrical noise? Is this some new development/issue caused by the h100?
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post #1332 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyReZar View Post

Electrical noise? Is this some new development/issue caused by the h100?

guess so... I have it
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post #1333 of 1734
Thread Starter 
I don't think it's that new - sometimes the pump sounds like an old HDD that's being constantly accessed (that's what we call rattling or grinding pump), sometimes it's more of a buzzing/electrical noise, like a coil whine on a GPU or in a PSU, that sort of thing.
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post #1334 of 1734
Gil.
I’m not really sure what your current question is. I’ve shown you my components, fans, fan rpms, H100 config and thermal results with Core Temp. Often hardware monitors vary, Core Temp, RealTemp, Asus AI Suite 2 all give the same readings, while CPUID HWmonitor gives temps 10C higher than the others. I am using NF-F12s, not cougars, and my chassis Corsair 650D is extremely airy ventilated on top and there are no double and triple layering of mesh like on some chassis, just a single simple steel layer for direct airflow, not like the Corsair 600T which uses two mesh layers of steel and plastic making airflow just that much more difficult to navigate to the H100 rad. A good cooler seating, Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste, I did 6 seatings of my H100 before I found one acceptable and moved to the next step. I worked very slowly during the build took 3days in entirety, but am happy with the results.

The Noctua paste should expel from the tube runny and smooth, the first syringe I received from Newegg was new, yet hard and clumpy, been sitting in their warehouse too damn long. Did not use it, sent it back. Trying to illustrate there are many factors that combine to give you low low idle temps.

If you say idle temps are not important to you Gil, then you are fooling yourself, unless you are running a 24/7 server rig, your pc is going to be in idle mode most of the time not counting gaming sessions.

Low idle temps=lower load temps, all the same factors (and there are many) are going to either work for you or against you.

I have seem enthusiasts buy all the parts, throw a build together in 3 or 4 hours get terrible results, then get pissed off and send everything back. Some folks need to find a little more patience when building, and do some solid reading before the components arrive.

Try Core Temp HW monitor, see what you get, if you are really wanting the most out of your H100 then take it back to square one and restart, reseat your H100 per this guide:

After laying your chassis down, place a small amount of TIM 3/5ths vertically Top to Bottom, North to South onto the IHS surface so it is spread directly above the die, the amount is so small for best results. But as a guide the syringe opening of the NT-H1 is perfect for delivering the paste, use a constant but slight pressure with your thumb and move your hand as the paste flows out of the syringe evenly, evenly, evenly don’t make any skips or create lean areas, then advance your hand so the tube or sausage shaped TIM is the same diameter along the entire length, visualize the IHS as divided into 5 sections and only apply the paste to the 3 interior sections, it will spread from there. Align the H100 cooler/pump and let gravity be the only force moving it down into position. Thread all four attachment screws 3/4 turn only, then follow the cross-pressure pattern of upper left, lower right, upper right, lower left, 3/4 turn at a time slowly repeating until all screws are finger tight.

Even with utmost care like I said I reseated 6 times before the thermals were really low. If you mess up, don’t go with a bad TIM, wipe it clean off the CPU and just do it again, before placing, and forget “Noctua instruction number 3” on the back of the package. Do not rotate the heat sink left and right and smear it, not for Ivy Bridge. The sink placement motion should be gravity alone and “down only” for extremely low temps. Good Luck M8! Whew I’m tired.smile.gif

The photo shows the die underneath the IHS:

overclockers2.jpg

IMG_0964.jpg

Untitled-1.png

Untitled6-1.png

These idle temps are with a 4.2Ghz/2133Mhz overclock speed step and hyper-threading enabled and Vcore of 1.282volts. I’m certain I could achieve lower temps if I dropped the o/c and lowered the Vcore, but I really enjoy the responsiveness at 4.2Ghz.
Edited by MeanBruce - 9/10/12 at 7:30am
    
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post #1335 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMax1963 View Post

Totally agree with you, in my case I don't think sending the unit back is an option since I live in the Caribbean and would probably have to spend 2 or 3 times more money than you did shipping it back, but at least you got a trouble free unit so be happy for that I guess.
Just out of curiosity, would you happen to know the serial number of the replacement unit??
I will post serial number later this evening.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

I live in Australia (for the meantime) and I got prepaid UPS label and the UPS delivery man picked up the faulty H100 with no charge. So it's wired you had to spend money.
I received the new H100 after 2 days from a warehouse in China.
wl wlw I'm PM'ing you right now regarding electrical noise with the new H100 :/

Yes, I found it strange myself. It appears Corsair is inconsistent with the prepaid labels. Some get them, some do not. I am in the states, no label.
post #1336 of 1734
Thread Starter 
Just had a quick glimpse on the Corsair forums, the problems seem to be still present, even after numerous "selective" RMAs.
The big H100 Noise thread has been locked, so it sunk and nobody reads it probably, sad to see all these guys go through it all again, not knowing for how much time the problem was there and what are the alternatives...
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post #1337 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

Just had a quick glimpse on the Corsair forums, the problems seem to be still present, even after numerous "selective" RMAs.
The big H100 Noise thread has been locked, so it sunk and nobody reads it probably, sad to see all these guys go through it all again, not knowing for how much time the problem was there and what are the alternatives...

I remember the night they closed it down, seems no one wanted that responsibility on their shoulders at the time, and they were out of pacifications with no clear solution, so pull the plug was the answer. Really thought the new tolerances would have made a difference, hope that was not just a bunch of malarkey, who knows, every corp has its private reasons for making public statements.
    
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post #1338 of 1734
Hi Bruce... wow.. thanks for the detailed answer... no wonder you're tired smile.gif

I'm using Noctua fans only as well. ASUS Ai suite gives thermal reading of the CPU block not core readings. I used Antec forumla 7 TIM.
But now I have new noise with the H100... I'm starting to consider thermaltake extreme 2.0 water cooling.... well for the meantime, my idle temps are between 25~32 degrees while ambient temp is about 20 degrees (winter here).

I think I give up getting better cooling temps. I also found out the there's no reason to spin the radiator fans higher in high temps... it yields nothing. 700RPM is dead silent with noctua fans and the temps as load with fans on and off are the same.
My only suggestion is stay away from H100. It's not only about getting better cooling performance with water over air, it's all this troubleshooting that I would expect from custom water cooling, not a closed loop kit.
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post #1339 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

Just had a quick glimpse on the Corsair forums, the problems seem to be still present, even after numerous "selective" RMAs.
The big H100 Noise thread has been locked, so it sunk and nobody reads it probably, sad to see all these guys go through it all again, not knowing for how much time the problem was there and what are the alternatives...

Oh yeah, it got really nasty for a minute and after so many replies and the Corsair 1500 headphone (do a search it's another nightmare thread) issue thread popped up, the heat and pressure started rising over there. BOTH the headphone thread and H100 threads were killed with something noted as "no one was was being helped closing thread" response. Not to whine, and wlw you know the history and my and many others issues (and about you being banned for silly reasons) but that was a a very disappointing response from Corsair. I understand that technical issues happen, bad products are made, but it's all about how you handle the situation that sets you apart from the "pikers".

We need to keep this thread going as we have to be a lighthouse for those lost out there. Not to bash Corsair, but to inform as to what the problem is and resolves for it. Some people have sunk hundreds on a $99 cooling unit.

BTW- For those that asked what my Lot number on the H100: 12129403
post #1340 of 1734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

well for the meantime, my idle temps are between 25~32 degrees while ambient temp is about 20 degrees (winter here).
I think I give up getting better cooling temps. I also found out the there's no reason to spin the radiator fans higher in high temps... it yields nothing. 700RPM is dead silent with noctua fans and the temps as load with fans on and off are the same.
Agreed.
The temps are pretty much the same no matter the speed of the fans on the radiator. If you have good quality static pressure fans then you should be good to go at a low fan speed setting. Even the fans that come with unit can be undervolted and still cool the same (though have a tough time starting sometimes at low voltage when compared to Corsair's premium line of SP120 fans).
25-32ºC are actually good temps for idle of a 3570K or 3770K. I am impressed with MeanBruce's 4.2 OC at only 1.282 volts though maybe that is standard for 3770K cpus. MY 3570K needs > 1.35 V in order to maintain 4.2 via multiplier settings alone. I can however lower the voltage and use a 3Mhz increase in BLCK to achieve > 4.2GHz at only a 41x multiplier. I think the offset settings on the ASUS board tend to overestimate the power needs of high multiplier settings. You might also be able to get away with a lower voltage if you speed up the response time of your VRM assembly.
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