I’m not really sure what your current question is. I’ve shown you my components, fans, fan rpms, H100 config and thermal results with Core Temp. Often hardware monitors vary, Core Temp, RealTemp, Asus AI Suite 2 all give the same readings, while CPUID HWmonitor gives temps 10C higher than the others. I am using NF-F12s, not cougars, and my chassis Corsair 650D is extremely airy ventilated on top and there are no double and triple layering of mesh like on some chassis, just a single simple steel layer for direct airflow, not like the Corsair 600T which uses two mesh layers of steel and plastic making airflow just that much more difficult to navigate to the H100 rad. A good cooler seating, Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste, I did 6 seatings of my H100 before I found one acceptable and moved to the next step. I worked very slowly during the build took 3days in entirety, but am happy with the results.
The Noctua paste should expel from the tube runny and smooth, the first syringe I received from Newegg was new, yet hard and clumpy, been sitting in their warehouse too damn long. Did not use it, sent it back. Trying to illustrate there are many factors that combine to give you low low idle temps.
If you say idle temps are not important to you Gil, then you are fooling yourself, unless you are running a 24/7 server rig, your pc is going to be in idle mode most of the time not counting gaming sessions.
Low idle temps=lower load temps, all the same factors (and there are many) are going to either work for you or against you.
I have seem enthusiasts buy all the parts, throw a build together in 3 or 4 hours get terrible results, then get pissed off and send everything back. Some folks need to find a little more patience when building, and do some solid reading before the components arrive.
Try Core Temp HW monitor, see what you get, if you are really wanting the most out of your H100 then take it back to square one and restart, reseat your H100 per this guide:
After laying your chassis down, place a small amount of TIM 3/5ths vertically Top to Bottom, North to South onto the IHS surface so it is spread directly above the die, the amount is so small for best results. But as a guide the syringe opening of the NT-H1 is perfect for delivering the paste, use a constant but slight pressure with your thumb and move your hand as the paste flows out of the syringe evenly, evenly, evenly don’t make any skips or create lean areas, then advance your hand so the tube or sausage shaped TIM is the same diameter along the entire length, visualize the IHS as divided into 5 sections and only apply the paste to the 3 interior sections, it will spread from there. Align the H100 cooler/pump and let gravity be the only force moving it down into position. Thread all four attachment screws 3/4 turn only, then follow the cross-pressure pattern of upper left, lower right, upper right, lower left, 3/4 turn at a time slowly repeating until all screws are finger tight.
Even with utmost care like I said I reseated 6 times before the thermals were really low. If you mess up, don’t go with a bad TIM, wipe it clean off the CPU and just do it again, before placing, and forget “Noctua instruction number 3” on the back of the package. Do not rotate the heat sink left and right and smear it, not for Ivy Bridge. The sink placement motion should be gravity alone and “down only” for extremely low temps. Good Luck M8! Whew I’m tired.
The photo shows the die underneath the IHS:
These idle temps are with a 4.2Ghz/2133Mhz overclock speed step and hyper-threading enabled and Vcore of 1.282volts. I’m certain I could achieve lower temps if I dropped the o/c and lowered the Vcore, but I really enjoy the responsiveness at 4.2Ghz.Edited by MeanBruce - 9/10/12 at 7:30am