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Pio help me with these fishers, lol. - Page 3

post #21 of 37
Thread Starter 
Im not good with speaker specs, lol. But what does Vas stand for?

* Power handling: 80 watts RMS/115 watts max * Voice coil diameter: 2" * Le: 2.70 mH * Impedance: 8 ohms * Re: 6.4 ohms * Frequency response: 25-2,500 Hz * Magnet weight: 30 oz. * Fs: 26 Hz * SPL: 90.5 dB 1W/1m * Vas: 4.70 cu. ft.


Id prefer ported enclosures, but again that usually means a bigger enclosure, where as I can get away with a smaller sealed box right?

Edit: A pair of these should work right? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-446
Edited by vwgti - 4/7/12 at 6:10pm
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post #22 of 37
Vas stands for "Equivalent volume of compliance"
This is a volume of air whose compliance is the same a the speakers acoustical compliance or Cms.
    
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post #23 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwgti View Post

Im not good with speaker specs, lol. But what does Vas stand for?

* Power handling: 80 watts RMS/115 watts max * Voice coil diameter: 2" * Le: 2.70 mH * Impedance: 8 ohms * Re: 6.4 ohms * Frequency response: 25-2,500 Hz * Magnet weight: 30 oz. * Fs: 26 Hz * SPL: 90.5 dB 1W/1m * Vas: 4.70 cu. ft.


Id prefer ported enclosures, but again that usually means a bigger enclosure, where as I can get away with a smaller sealed box right?

Edit: A pair of these should work right? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-446

See the guy above me, he gave a pretty good explanation of Vas. Only thing I know about it, is its one of the specs that you need to properly design an enclosure for it (one spec of MANY).

If you go for ported, yes it'll be larger than sealed. Probably around 1.50-2.0 cuft or so as a guess. Just pulling numbers out of my butt, I haven't designed a box for those drivers. If you went ported, assuming you'd be keeping your powered woofer for sub frequencies, then I'd be porting those relatively high, and trying to get a relatively flat response down to about 50 or 60Hz.

For a crossover, I'd say 100-120Hz as a pretty decent spot, assuming you're going to have these placed in the same locations as your main L/R speakers.
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post #24 of 37
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much guys, and yeah pio was looking to get effective down to 35-40hz from these if possible. Im doing a online enclosure calculator and it requires the Qtc to calculate a sealed enclosure. Unfortunately I dont see the Qtc listed?? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-320


Edit: Think I figured out Qtc, and this what the calculator came up with for a sealed enclosure.

Sealed Box

Vas = 4.7 ft3
fs = 26 Hz
Qts = 0.43
Qtc = 0.707
Dimensions
Vb = 2.76 ft3 = 78.13 lts
= L x W x H
f3 = 42.76 Hz
fb = 42.75 Hz


Been researching horn loaded enclosures, seems rather impressive but tricky to design. Any help for building any type of enclosure would be great. Over on the parts express forum, a guy tried out his buddys dual 12 inch dayton classics, in about a 5.5 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned to around 25, and he was very impressed with the output.
Edited by vwgti - 4/7/12 at 10:31pm
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post #25 of 37
If you want a horn loaded design, then it might be worth checking out DIYaudio.com. They have a build there, called "The Kraken", comes in a 1x 12" flavor and a 2x12" flavor. However they use JBL car subs to make this design work. It's absolutely HUGE, but I've seen videos of the output. We're talking clean response, and LOUD (read 125dB) down to about 9Hz.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th-10.html#post2770682
(link I provided is the 1x12, and 2x10 model, the 2x12 model is the first post in that thread).

I'm honestly not sure how those Dayton classic woofers would respond in that enclosure honestly. Horns are something I really don't know enough about, as they're quite complex to design.

A nice ported box would do them very well. Or sealed...if all you wanted was mid bass out of them.
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post #26 of 37
It says right on the back of the cabinet what impedance they are, 8ohms. You can't measure impedance with a multi-tester. Impedance is measured by applying an AC signal at a specific voltage, (typically 2.83volts, the standard for measuring 1w/1m sensitivity) and then measuring the current draw.


*edit* The only time the impedance of the woofers wouldn't be what the impedance of the whole cabinet is, is if there were multiple woofers in there.
Edited by Cavi Mike - 4/8/12 at 2:07am
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post #27 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavi Mike View Post

It says right on the back of the cabinet what impedance they are, 8ohms. You can't measure impedance with a multi-tester. Impedance is measured by applying an AC signal at a specific voltage, (typically 2.83volts, the standard for measuring 1w/1m sensitivity) and then measuring the current draw.


*edit* The only time the impedance of the woofers wouldn't be what the impedance of the whole cabinet is, is if there were multiple woofers in there.

You do realize that the tweeters and midranges were ALSO wired up in the same cabinet right? Those add resistance as well. wink.gif

And you test for impedance with a multimeter, with the driver unhooked. I wasn't looking for box rise or anything else like that, I was just wanting to know the standing impedance of the woofers, to make sure they were the same as the new ones he purchased. If the originals were 4ohm drivers, and the new ones are 8ohm, it would make things operate entirely different.

Not that it matters, since he can't figure out why the mids / tweets aren't working now, and has apparently scrapped the build to build those Daytons into a sub or mid bass drivers.
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post #28 of 37
Actually they wouldn't add resistance, if anything they would subtract resistance, but what you don't seem to realize is those mids and highs are crossed-over and the woofer(which usually isn't crossed-over) naturally impedes* the flow of higher-frequencies. These ranges overlap slightly which doesn't just offer a flat frequency response across the speakers range, but a fairly flat nominal impedance as well.

*impede: this is where the term impedance comes from. It's used when talking about speakers instead of 'resistance' because resistance signifies a constant value but resistance changes throughout a drivers frequency response. When you see the frequency response of a given driver, it's that range where the nominal impedance rating is taken.


*edit* Besides, the impedance of the mids and highs is fairly insignificant anyways. The lower frequencies are where the most power is consumed so it's really up to the woofer to dictate the speakers overall impedance rating.
Edited by Cavi Mike - 4/8/12 at 5:27am
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post #29 of 37
Thread Starter 
So it seems Im between a rock and a hard place. Starting to wish I bought the 4 ohm variants, after killing the mids and tweets. Would make for a easier build for what Im trying to do now.

Edit: Could I trim the fat on that calculated sealed enclosure, and stuff it?? Would that work?
Edited by vwgti - 4/8/12 at 7:37pm
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post #30 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwgti View Post

So it seems Im between a rock and a hard place. Starting to wish I bought the 4 ohm variants, after killing the mids and tweets. Would make for a easier build for what Im trying to do now.

Edit: Could I trim the fat on that calculated sealed enclosure, and stuff it?? Would that work?

Absolutely. Actually, considering you're wanting more mid bass out of them anyway, they would do pretty well sealed up tight anyway. They'll want more power the tighter the box is though.
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