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[Build Log] Green Lantern, 360mm and 240mm Rad Internally in a HAF 932 Advanced

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
First of all I want to thank everyone who helped me over the past 2-3 weeks, I'm nearly done with the set up and such... (well I hope so)

I just have to leak test it now, I started a while back and water level hasn't dropped yet, wil lthe drop be very noticeable (after 48 hours) or very minor)


http://www.google.com.au/imgres?hl=en&biw=1280&bih=933&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=2ZYB8CzLW4OuLM:&imgrefurl=http://forums.pureoverclock.com/reviews-articles/7618-xspc-x2o-750-a.html&docid=78OrBaZYXIS_GM&imgurl=http://www.pureoverclock.com/images/review/cooling/xspc_x2o750/xspc_x2o750_forums.jpg&w=385&h=337&ei=7Zl6T5yfF42HmQXs-fzSAw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=398&sig=103648833400607286456&page=1&tbnh=132&tbnw=151&start=0&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:5,s:0&tx=66&ty=61

Oh also, I managed to get a 360mm and 240mm rad internally into a HAF 932 advanced without any modding, ill post pics soon smile.gif It actually works really well if you do it right (takes a while though).
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Leak testing

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Unfortunately only one 120mm fan because my local store only had one -.-

Got 2 more coming soon from fleabay smile.gif

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My 200w external PSU for testing the pump smile.gif
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New Pics:

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These are Bitfenix Spectres btw

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I'll take some more pics once I'm done leak testing and I have the cathodes/fans installed

EDIT: My room is an absolute mess btw thumb.gif

EDIT2: Rig up and running getting nice temps while folding smile.gif

*Note that two of the fans on my RX360 rad haven't arrived yet.

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Mounting the rad onto the HDD cage + space after mount
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Sorry for bad quality, its about 6cm
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Again bad quality, ~27cm
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Mounting the 240mm rad onto the HDD cage using cable ties, works very well.
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Edited by Klinkey - 4/6/12 at 6:03am
post #2 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klinkey View Post

First of all I want to thank everyone who helped me over the past 2-3 weeks, I'm nearly done with the set up and such... (well I hope so)
I just have to leak test and bleed it now, any tips on bleeding? My rad is higher than my Res/Pump>
Oh also, I managed to get a 360mm and 240mm rad internally into a HAF 932 advanced without any modding, ill post pics soon smile.gif It actually works really well if you do it right (takes a while though)

Pics first then we talk. aaevil.gif

Ad water into the res. Only turn on the pump, and keep your finder on the PSU on/off button. When the res is empty, fill it some more. If the water stops flowing, cycle the pump and tilt the case to and fro. Keep going untill you see a re-flow of water within the res.

Enjoy!
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post #3 of 19
Tip the computer as it's running, doing so slowly and rotate it so the res is the highest point, then rotate back and forth to give the bubbles the least resistance to reaching it. Then once you have most of them set it right back up and open the res and bleed out that air. Do this 2-3 times and you should have gotten all of it, the rest will diffuse and get captured in the res. Do it again in about a week to get the last of it, refilling it with water after removing the air.

This is the step after the leak test. This is what I did, also if the tubing is clear you can visually inspect the ports. Like if theres a bubble in the rad you should see it tracing down towards the pump slightly. If theres an air bubble I noticed they dip down alittle but won't go through hence why you turn it upside down slowly to make the bubble flow to the res instead of fighting the water and always wanting to go up. So that when you rotate it, it goes up into the res for removal.
Edited by Maelthras - 4/2/12 at 10:30pm
post #4 of 19
i shoved paper clip in the end of the 24 pin and kept the funnel in and slowly poured a continuous stream of water as it sucked it all down. sealed it up and worked all the air bubbles to the res/pump by rocking and tilting and pinching various lines, then topped it off a few more times.
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post #5 of 19
like everyone else has said just fill the res and then turn on the pump to push the water through the loop. Once the water levels stay the same in the res then kinda shake the case to get the bubbles out of the radiators. There will be a lot of bubbles in there (I know because I have a 360 and a 240 in my 800D) I just shook it for a few minutes and tilted the case a bit each way till very few bubbles showed up in the res. In a week or so you will need more water because the microbubbles will have moved into the res causing the water levels to drop a bit but just add more water. Other than that just post some pics caus I want to see that much rad in that case tongue.gif
 
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post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hahah alright guys, thanks for the quick response, I'll take some pictures now wink.gif
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
Pics are up
post #8 of 19
Thread Starter 
come on guys help me out tongue.gif
post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klinkey View Post

come on guys help me out tongue.gif

What do you need help with... everything seems ok! thumb.gif
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post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

What do you need help with... everything seems ok! thumb.gif

I left it leak testing and after about, 18 hours the water level has dropped a little bit, using this res. Was that bubbles or is it leaking?
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=10479

I'll leave it for another 26 or so hours now.

If it's leaking will it be noticeable or will it be really small drops in water level
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › [Build Log] Green Lantern, 360mm and 240mm Rad Internally in a HAF 932 Advanced