Well, I took the risk and succeeded!
Below is the report and there are some interesting twists so it's worth reading:
I turned off my computer and unplugged all connections to my P180. Did some prep work including laying out all the tools I would need, newspaper and desk lamp for more lighting, etc.
Open the P180. First thing I do is pry loose the current AMD stock fan I've been using. It was on tight so it was a pain to get off but somehow I did it. I pull the San Diego out of the socket carefully, of course mostly worried about the pins. Once out, I immediately put the foam that covers the pins that came with the 4000+ back onto the CPU.
The IHS is covered with AMD stock thermalpaste so I decide to clean it so that no residual accidentally gets on to the core once I open it. I use the ArticClean set (purchased via Internet) using bottle #1, Thermal Material Removal followed by bottle #2, Thermal Surface Purifier. The IHS is clean.
I get out my razorblades and at first use a razorblade holder but it isn't quite the same as the one Crash uses in his video - it is the kind with only the very tip of Razor at top exposed. I decide just to use the razorblade without a holder. I mimic Crash's instructions in his video, but it's really slow going - and for awhile I wonder if the 4000+ is sealed differently than other single processor AMDs. I use several razorblades but really take my time. Slowly going deeper on the corners and cutting slowly thru the sides.
Suddenly I realize one side of the IHS is loose and I'm able to lift it and peak inside the core. Looks good but I really can't see too much. Did I go too deep with my razors? I slowly cut off on the still attached portions of the IHS and finally it lifts off. Thank God, I realize I haven't cut anything in the core - even though there are at least a dozen condensors surround the actual CPU.
The CPU has AMD thermalpaste all over it so as I repeat the cleaning process I did with the IHS, but on a much smaller scale. I use bottles #1 & #2 of ArticClean, and I repeat the process until the CPU chip looks absolutely clean and shines.
I take a careful look now to make sure I've removed any extraneous debris and I take the foam pad off the pins and check all the pins to make sure there isn't anything new or a bent pin. I then put the 4000+ with open core back into the 939 socket moving the socket lever down for final attachment.
OK now I have to place a gigantic Big Typhoon VX onto an open core chip. Before I do so, let me mention that I looked very carefully at the 4000+ chip and compared the height of the CPU versus the condensors on the chip. I could barely tell any difference - maybe a millimeter height difference. I was extremely worried that once I put the Big Typhoon on - I would short one of the condensors (and I'm still a bit worried that could happen in the near future we'll see).
I then carefully applied ArticSilver 5 to the CPU chip, placing a thin layer over the entire CPU wafer - using a razorblade.
Then a real struggle began. The new VX now has a bracket you can use for the K8, but it is a loose bracket that stays in place only after you attach it to the base and turn the latch to tighten the assembly. So first I carefully placed the VX onto the 4000+ open core - not really knowing if I was doomed to short the condensors - and kill my CPU, and of course I can't see a damn thing given that the Big Typhoon covers half my motherboard. Now I try fitting the loose bracket on - half blind and finally succeed in setting it only to find to my shock that the Big Typhoon is still loose even after I've set the latch.
I pull the Big Typhoon assembly out. Clean the BT's heatsink using my ArcticCleaners, and reapply arctic silver to the CPU. I realize that without the IHS, the VX's bracket mechanism does not work properly because there is now more empty space between the VX's heatsink and the CPU core, and the VX's bracket is originally designed for a IHS to be inbetween. Sigh. So what do I do?
Well this is what I did. I took Reynolds aluminum foil and carefully folded it up until it was the same thickness as the IHS. I then placed the thick foil in-between the loose bracket at the TOP of the BT heatsink pad (NOT BOTTOM i.e. between the BT & CPU, that would have been ground zero catastrophe) - so that when I go to tighten the bracket - the extra foil thickness allows me now to secure the VX onto the open core - and quite tight.
I still have no idea if the Big Typhoon's heatsink pad is leaning on one of the condensors and thus short circuit hell about to occur. But what can I do really? This is the risk I decided to take in the first place right?
So I put back everything in place, right-end my P180. Plug in everything and switch on my Seasonic PSU 600. Then I press the power button. Nothing. Nada. Zip. I have this terrible sinking feeling in my stomach.
I look around - try the power button again. Nothing. Then I check the main board power connection and low and behold it wasn't all the way plugged in. I put it in. Turn on the power and everything starts to go including the Big Typhoon VX - strapped to my open core 4000+ with Reynold aluminum foil padding the VX's K8 bracket mechanism.
Well what can I say. It's been an adventure. Was it worth it?
Well with my stock AMD heatsink with max fan, my core temperature with CPU running at 60% (I've been folding for the Overclock team) my temps were about 40-42 degree range. Now, with the Big Typhoon VX with LOW FAN setting, my core temperatures are now at 30-32 range. If I turn the VX fan up, I lose another 2 degrees - but there is a definite trade-off in decibel level as the VX has a definite whine when you turn it up.
I'm one happy camper.
Now to see how well the arctic silver sets in - and I got to see what the routine is for running the CPU heavy and slow for best arctic silver results.
Thanks everyone for all your input!! Especially to you IRA-K. I think this is what Overclocking is all about - taking the obvious risks with some apprehensiveness, but the rewards are worth it!