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coolant leak disaster - Page 5

post #41 of 61
Thread Starter 
i passed my initial leak test...
.448
as you can see i used 1 ziptie. i made sure this was very tight. i installed it first on the bench so i could safely "torque" it down.
448
the m/b cooling block i used compression fittings no leaks
448
know to install my b-day presents. this is not the video card that was soaked in coolant. i will post pics on that soon..
next i'm savaging a sapphire hd6970 out of another build i have for w/c card#2. i'm hoping to have the 2 cards installed in the test loop by monday.. i'll post pics
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post #42 of 61
glad you got it all back together. wishing you luck in your future water cooling endevors. I would also recommend not using coolant, use distilled and a kill coil. That is all I have ever used.
post #43 of 61
this is a old post from me on another forum and this is how i wash my old arcade boards and i all so do the same on PCBS that have been leaked on. Ive been doing it for years with out any problems. I know its a bit bit late but meh. Any way glad to see your sorted.
Quote:
If old and dirty or just badly looked after sometimes you need to clean you PCB so that you can work on them.

In this little tut I'm going to clean a couple of arcade PCBs because well there old and dirty and haven't really been looked after well. Also they are with a bit of money smile.gif.

So there are several ways of cleaning PCBS and some ways can serials get expansive and well who likes to pay out money when they don't need to. So ill teach you a cheap ass method.

What you will need is

1. Deionised water
2. Vinegar
3. A soft brush
4. A Tub to hold it all in
5. A Cooker

First i start off buy looking at the boards I'm going to clean and as you can see there not clean by any means. There is years upon years of dirt on them.

008.jpg
009.jpg

Next we take some Deionised water and pour it in our tub (well i don't I do it in my lasses sink but you better off using a plastic tub, I'm just a lazy ass).

Now add 1 cap full of Vinegar and swish it about in the tub / sink.


Now after removing and screws drop in you PCB and being carful give it a rub down with your brush. The softer the brush the better and be careful how you go about it. You don't what to knock off any vital components.

011.jpg
013.jpg
015.jpg

Now once you dune this stick it in your draining board for a few moments for the liquid to come off. Now what i do then is empty out the old dirty liquid and give the bowl a clean out and then i rinse off the PCS with clean Deionised water to make sure all the vinegar is not present as this can destroy the board.

018.jpg
012.jpg

Again put it on the draining board again for about 10 to 15 min to get as much of the water off as possible.

019.jpg

Now using a electric cooker (fan assisted ones work best) set it to about 60c or just a little above its lowest point and let it warm up.

Now put you PCBs on paper and place in the oven. Keep the over door open a little so that the vapours can be let out .

023.jpg
024.jpg
025.jpg

Now cook for about 30 min to 1 hour keeping an eye on you PCB baking. Now once these have dried i personally then stick them in a warm airing cupboard for 2 days just to make sure they are dried out properly.

Thats it you now have clean new looking PCB's.

026.jpg
031.jpg

Have fun.

Oh if you do this i am not responsable if you mess it up smile.gif

These are shot of the PCB complete

039.jpg038.jpg042.jpg

The PCB ref no ref to it being

GX330 - Konami's Hyper Sports

And if you dont know the game its this ->

1164_1.png

Edited by Mayhem - 4/15/12 at 4:21am
post #44 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerJohn View Post

My personal opinion on clamps:

Zip-ties:
Pros
Cheap, somewhat effective, can get different colours, available everywhere, one size fits all.

Cons
Can be hard to get tight, one use only, can look "cheap" (subjective)

Worm drives
Pros
Easy to tighten, fairly cheap, widely available, reusable.

Cons
Can easily overtighten, can have sharp edges on bands which cut tubing, looks arn't great (subjective)

Plastic clamps:
Pros
Colours, look slightly better than worm drives, reusable

Cons
Can be hard to tighten, difficult to remove, have to find the right size

Spring steel clamps
Pros
Tight seal, spring clamp so adjusts for any change in tubing, look good, fairly easy to use, reusable.

Cons
Strong fingers or pliers needed, not always available, limited colours, have to get the right size

Clampless 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs
Pros
Looks great, provides a tight seal, cheapest solution

Cons
Possible for tubing to work free over time, can be hard to fit


Overall the spring steel clamps are my favourite. I like how they adjust to the tubing over time, how easy they are to apply and remove and how they look. One of the things I found when using zip ties and plastic clamps was that I would get it nice and tight to start with, then when I checked them a few weeks later they had become loose. Not because the clamp had changed, but because the tubing underneath them had. When I took them off I found that the tubing had compressed under the clamp. This does not happen with spring steel clamps or worm drives (proivded you tighten them properly).

In the end it is down to personal preference. All of the methods I mentioned can work just fine provided they are done right.
whole heartedly agree with you!
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post #45 of 61
Thread Starter 
that's a great post mayhem..when i open the actual damaged video card i'll give it a go
i still not sure if the ziptie was the cause of the heatkiller water leak. i couldnt get any photos but when i removed the hose connectors from the block,there was heavy corrosion in the threads of the block. i had to soak the block in vinegar/distilled water,then scrub the thread walls with a soft tooth brush. that didnt clean the threads totally so i used articlean tim remover with q-tips. after 5 scrubings the threads were clean.
now we are on leak check #3. first i assembled the heatkiller 69x0's.the hard part was installing the x3 connector( no directions) i had to fight the "o" rings
448
i inserted the assembly on the motherboard as one piece. seemed easier and it was
448
i made a mini loop for testing
700
its been running for 4 hours so far no leaks
448
tomorrow morning when i come into work if there are no leaks, i'll take my baby home to install the radiator and fire this rig up:thumb:
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post #46 of 61
grats on getting it back together and working thumb.gif
 
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post #47 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyreal View Post

grats on getting it back together and working thumb.gif
Yeah It's definitely not easy, but it's also definitely worth it !
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post #48 of 61
GJ on getting it clean and dry. I just had to take my cpu waterblock off cuz it had tiny leak while leak testing but in the process of putting it back together now.
post #49 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by thrasherht View Post

I have gone naked tubing with primochill LRT and 1/2in XSPC barbs. It worked great for me, and was impossible to get the tubing off without cutting it once it had been on there for a while. My current tubing is really cheap stuff and I am using dual zip ties and it is barely enough. I had a leak the first time when I only had one zip tie. I would recommend 2 zip ties, one before, and one after the edge of the barb.
399

Spend hundreds of dollars on hardware and water cooling loop , but cheese it all out in the end with useless 15 cent zip ties that are acting as the Macgyver of hose clamps.
This logic astounds me. It doesn't make people very clever when it all goes to hell.
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post #50 of 61
I would recommend using cyber clean on all of the PCB's. I've used this all the time to clean dust and other residues from sensitive electronic components of all kinds.
- chmodlabs

Cyber Clean - LINK
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