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Best way to apply TIM for an uneven HSF? - Page 2

post #11 of 23
All HDT coolers have small gaps between the heatpipes and the plate that holds them.

Do not lap HDT coolers. The metal is already very thin, and you will either crumple or puncture the heatpipes, as PontiacGTX has pointed out.

Apply TIM to the base of the heatsink, spread it flat, into the gaps, and wipe off the excess, then apply your dot to the center of the heatspreader. Since the gaps are already filled, it should spread just like any other heatsink with a flat base.
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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
The linked article talks about lapping an HDT too..
"Fixing the first problem required some wet-sand paper and elbow grease (that's a metaphor for hard work, so don't go searching the web for another product). By lapping down the surface to a flat even base, you can then polish it down to minimize the grain-like finish inherent of HDT products."

Also, would you apply TIM to just the heatsink then, or also the CPU?
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post #13 of 23
I could be wrong, but i was under the impression that the best way to apply TIM to a HDT heatsink is to put a short, very thin line along each heatpipe of the sink. None on the CPU itself and applied it that way. That fills in the gaps and leaves alot less air bubbles that trying to fill in the uneven areas by hand.

Just press the heatsink in the normal way and the TIM will fill the gaps.
post #14 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post

All HDT coolers have small gaps between the heatpipes and the plate that holds them.
Do not lap HDT coolers. The metal is already very thin, and you will either crumple or puncture the heatpipes, as PontiacGTX has pointed out.
Apply TIM to the base of the heatsink, spread it flat, into the gaps, and wipe off the excess, then apply your dot to the center of the heatspreader. Since the gaps are already filled, it should spread just like any other heatsink with a flat base.

+1
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post #15 of 23
Thin lines on the heatsink. None on the CPU...

450

See here
post #16 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacGTX View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

Kinda lazy so I am going to quote someone....
Edit: Google lapping a cpu, I think L3P has the best guide out there for lapping. It'll smooth the edges so the copper and ali as even and can sit perfect on the CPU IHS. Then just the rice grain TIM will give you great temps.
Edit 2: Here's the link. Just do the same thing for the HS that he does to his CPU.

you cant "lap" a HDT Heatsink
doh.gif
or will happen this

300


Ontopic

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5

I Fill the gaps between the heatpipes w/ tiny and not to long lines OF TIM(I did it with Noctua NT H1) thumb.gif


+rep, dude. Great shot, BTW.

 

OP -- If your heatpipes do not make full contact with the ihs of the cpu, it's defective. RMA it. There are ways to apply TIM to the 212+ but only if the heatpipes are the objects making contact. RMA.

 

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post #17 of 23
There is no one correct way to apply TIM to these heat sinks. Anything that allows as complete coverage as possible with as little excess TIM as possible will work well.

At least two viable methods have been given, and regardless of what any article says, don't lap these coolers. It won't help enough to justify weakening the pipes.
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post #18 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post

All HDT coolers have small gaps between the heatpipes and the plate that holds them.
Do not lap HDT coolers. The metal is already very thin, and you will either crumple or puncture the heatpipes, as PontiacGTX has pointed out.
Apply TIM to the base of the heatsink, spread it flat, into the gaps, and wipe off the excess, then apply your dot to the center of the heatspreader. Since the gaps are already filled, it should spread just like any other heatsink with a flat base.

This^. On the Arctic Silver website, they recommend taking a credit card or flat piece of plastic and spreading TIM on the heatsink if you have a HDT cooler. I did it with my spire cooler, only 40c max at 1.475v on my 1055t thumb.gif If the sink isn't even contacting in the right places in the first place, RMA it or return it. Not worth the trouble for a 30$ heatsink.
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post #19 of 23
The original 212+ (not evo) has nasty gaps in between the pipes. fill them in. then do whatever you want. I spread a paper thin layer.

450
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post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranguvar View Post

. . .

But my HSF is uneven -- the copper heatpipes are recessed compared to the rest of the plate that contacts the CPU.
. . .
What would you recommend?


There is no amount of TIM that will help you get the best from this heatsink. TIM is designed to fill in voids that are generally too small to be seen. The best contact is metal-to-metal contact, and that is the way your heatsink was designed.

 

If your aluminum ribs are resting on the cpu ihs, and the copper heatpipes do not press down on the ihs, then the heatsink was not built as it was designed. It is defective. Return it for one that conforms to its manufacturing specs.

 

Don't you try to make up for a manufacturing defect.

 

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