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GIGABYTE Z77X Owners/Discussion/Information/Support Thread and Club (UD5H, UD3H, D3H, and ALL) - Page 131

post #1301 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhay View Post

Yes I have. I use Powerdvd and I can guarantee it works.
Thanks. I had to think back a bit, since I only use HDMI on my HTPC I sort of got away from using the big programs, and preferring to use smaller ones like Foobar on my main machine. I remember now it's all in the way the software treats the signal. and how it get's passed to it. Still would like to have DTS Connect as it should give more flexibility for using different software.
I don't watch movies on my main rig and pretty much prep everything lossless over to DTS-MA & MKV for playback on the HTPC, mostly listen to DTS wav on the main one.
post #1302 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by fasty View Post

I use those sort of capacitors for work - but I'm not going to bother fitting any to my Z77X-UD5H just yet biggrin.gif
For those who are interested:
It is usually "good practice" to put capacitors like this on power supply signals to chips, especially processors.
Processors don't consume current smoothly; it tends to be drawn in gulps and spikes, with these "current transients" moving up and down incredibly fast. Now, when there's a brief high peak of current, the voltage at the chip will tend to drop a bit because of the electrical resistance in the circuit tracks. As the current falls, the voltage will rise. Not a good idea.
In principle, the "load line compensation" is designed to compensate for this fluctuation in current and keep the voltage actually at the chip steady, but in practice it can never react fast enough to keep pace with the very fastest changes of current.
Are you with me so far? Good.
So, this is where capacitors are useful. Think of them like little reserve buckets of current right at the chip, ready to supplement the power supply and provide the extra little transients of current when they are needed, smoothing out the current changes, and helping the load line compensation to cope.
I believe that the intel processor chips themselves actually have some capacitors integrated into the chip package. This is great, because that's exactly where they are most effective. Of course, more fitted on the board close to the processor should not do any harm.
Now, if you've got a really clever power supply on the motherboard than can react very quickly to the changes in current, the "belt and braces" capacitors fitted to the motherboard are probably less important. The digital power supplies that Gigabyte are using should have a very fast response to transient current changes ("transient load regulation"), so may well not need the extra capacitors. The fact that there are circuit board "pads" in place where capacitors could be fitted shows that Gigabyte considered the possibility of them being needed, but ulimately decided not to fit them. The cost saving is not much, so that's probably not the reason.
The heavyweight copper used by Gigabyte for their circuit board also reduces the droop in voltage with current transients, again making the extra capacitors less important.
Summary: Gigabyte are using a state-of-the-art onboard power supply. If the motherboard works well without dozens of extra capacitors by the processor, then leaving them out should only make it more reliable. A less experienced designer might fit them anyway "just in case".
That is a very well stated explanation. I'm not an EE but do have some working knowledge of electronics albeit some years back in practical terms. I think you've given a realistic overview.
post #1303 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by homestyle View Post

To you D3H owners, (non UD3H).
How high are you able to take your cpus? The board comes with 4 pin cpu power connector and I'm wondering if that is a hindrance.

Just get UD3H.
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My System
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i5 2500K @4.7ghz(1.39v) 24/7 +D14 Asus P8Z77-V Sapphire R9 290 Tri X @1160/1600 8GB HyperX @2133 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WD Blue EZEX 1TB & Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (OS) Asus Nocuta NH D14 WIN 7 64 Ultimate 
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NEC 2490wuxi (rev 1) Logitech Wave Cooler Master Vanguard 850W Cooler Master HAF 932 
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post #1304 of 6656
ran into a problem.

I've been playing D3 pretty much all day no problems, went to shut down and then boot into BIOS and now it won't boot.

I get a POST beep and this error on the LED

A6- Detect and install all currently connected SCSI devices.

any ideas, I've tried clearing CMOS and no luck, haven't tried BIOS 2.

found this...not much help though

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/311840-30-cannot-enter-bios-blue-screen-gigabyte-ud3h
Edited by nimitz87 - 5/17/12 at 8:35pm
post #1305 of 6656
Use the backup to reflash the original BIOS then.

F9 has been out for the UD3H. Anyone tried it? Higher stability/clocks?

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html
COMPUTER
(16 items)
 
  
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3570K Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce OC 2GB Samsung 30nm 
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WD Caviar Blue WD Caviar Black NZXT Havik 140 Windows 7 64bit 
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Windows 8 64bit ASUS GD235HZ (GD245HQ) 120Hz Dell OCZ GameXStream 850W 
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COMPUTER
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570K Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce OC 2GB Samsung 30nm 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
WD Caviar Blue WD Caviar Black NZXT Havik 140 Windows 7 64bit 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8 64bit ASUS GD235HZ (GD245HQ) 120Hz Dell OCZ GameXStream 850W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Carbide 300R Logitech G9 naked Allsop Black Cloth (low profile) Logitech G35 Surround 
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post #1306 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by samwiches View Post

Use the backup to reflash the original BIOS then.

F9 has been out for the UD3H. Anyone tried it? Higher stability/clocks?

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios.html

I would like to know what and why this happened so I can prevent it from happening again

it just dawned on me, the 6 might be a letter b instead which would make it ready to be configured in the BIOS but I have no display or bios
post #1307 of 6656
I am trying to overclock using the F9 bios and I cannot change many settings. I press enter and/or double click on a setting and I cannot change it from "Auto".
i5 3570k build
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i5 3570k build
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H Evga Gtx 670 FTW 4 x 4gb Samsung 30nm  
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Crucial M4 128gb WD 500 GB Samsung 22x XSPC RASA 750 RS360 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 x64 Samsung SyncMaster BX2331 Asus Corsair 750 
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post #1308 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristof View Post

I am trying to overclock using the F9 bios and I cannot change many settings. I press enter and/or double click on a setting and I cannot change it from "Auto".

Use the page up / page down buttons. For voltages you can type the number in manually. I think the +/- buttons work too.
My System
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i7-2600k @ 4.6ghz Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H Zotac GTX 970 w/ Heatkiller 16GB G.Skill Ares (2133) 
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Samsung 830 256GB Samsung 840 500GB XSPC Raystorm / RX240 / UT60 / D5 W7 Home Premium 64 
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My System
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-2600k @ 4.6ghz Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H Zotac GTX 970 w/ Heatkiller 16GB G.Skill Ares (2133) 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 830 256GB Samsung 840 500GB XSPC Raystorm / RX240 / UT60 / D5 W7 Home Premium 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
X-Star DP2710 1440p CM Quickfire TK (browns) Seasonic X-660 NZXT Switch 810 
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Zowie ec1 evo Creative Soundblaster Z Sennheiser HD558 
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post #1309 of 6656
Well, I believe my Prime95 large FFT test has been failing because my vcore was too low. What I don't understand is that I'd manually set vcore to 1.140 in BIOS and it would run at only 1.056v during testing. I set it back to auto and it now runs right around the default of 1.155 as you'd expect. Maybe adjusting the vcore by offset instead of manually typing in the value would be the way to go, I'll have to look into how to accomplish that. At auto the temps are a little bit high but still reasonable.
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Intel SSD 320 Series (120GB, 2.5in SATA 3Gb/s, ... Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 72... Western Digital WD20EARS-00MVWB0 Caviar Green 2... Western Digital My Passport external drive USB 3.0 
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Samsung SH-B123L BD combo drive Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Antec Tri Cool 120mm fan w Blue LED Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound 4g 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Home Premium Dell U2412M Logitech Wave Y-UV90 Antec Earthwatts EA-650 650W Continuous Power S... 
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Main rig
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 3570k Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1024MB G.Skill Ares DDR3 1866MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel SSD 320 Series (120GB, 2.5in SATA 3Gb/s, ... Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST31500341AS 1.5TB 72... Western Digital WD20EARS-00MVWB0 Caviar Green 2... Western Digital My Passport external drive USB 3.0 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung SH-B123L BD combo drive Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Antec Tri Cool 120mm fan w Blue LED Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound 4g 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Home Premium Dell U2412M Logitech Wave Y-UV90 Antec Earthwatts EA-650 650W Continuous Power S... 
CaseMouseAudio
Corsair Obsidian 650D Logitech Gaming Mouse (G500) Creative Labs GigaWorks T20 2.0 Multimedia Spea... 
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post #1310 of 6656
got it woking yay
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