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GIGABYTE Z77X Owners/Discussion/Information/Support Thread and Club (UD5H, UD3H, D3H, and ALL) - Page 372

post #3711 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

You should have no problem with that...Try 0.005v vcore increments and retry prime95 custom test.

Doing small ffts right now wit vcopre at 1,315v and no workers going down, temps are good too
Edited by chris-br - 9/28/12 at 9:58pm
post #3712 of 6656
A little background first. I originally purchased the UD5H back in June. First one wouldn't post at all. It had power to the power switch, but nothing would happen when I pushed it. I took it back for a replacement and everything worked flawlessly with the new board. It has been running fine since that time. one thing I didn't realize is that the @Bios software was running on my PC. I must have installed it as part of the driver install process and didn't realize it. I found out when I came home a few weeks ago to see @BIOS running and attempting to download a new BIOS update. I let it do its thing even though I've never updated a BIOS like this before.

Fast forward to 2 days ago. I boot up my PC and get a message that my BIOS is corrupt, and that it's loading the backup BIOS. That's fine I think, when I have time this weekend I'll update the first BIOS and all should be well. Yesterday when I try to boot I get no love. The PC powers up the fans for a second, I hear a click coming from what appears to be the z77 chipset area, some strange character flashes on the debug display, and then it shuts down. A few seconds later same thing happens. It just keeps doing this over and over.

I pulled out everything but 1 stick of ram, and no difference. I decide to call it a night and pick up again today. Today same thing happens, I try clearing the CMOS, manually switching the BIOS, leaving it unplugged for a couple of hours, swapping the ram to a different slot, no change.

Now it won't even power up. The power button still lights up, I hit the power button and nothing, doesn't even click or power up the fans.

So the changes that I am aware of:
1. a recent BIOS update, but it seemed to work fine after that update.
2. I recently plugged my case fans into the MB headers as my fan controller died. I set the fan profile to silent. It seemed to work fine for a number of days after that change.
There have been no new software installs or updates that I'm aware of.

I've contacted Gigabyte support, but have yet to receive a reply.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As it stands I can't even get to a point where I can flash the BIOS.

Here are my components:
GA-Z77X-UDH-5H
i5 3570K
8GB (4x2) GSkill Ripsjaw X 1600
Sapphire HD 6950
Seasonic X750
Mushkin Chronos 120GB
Seagate Barracuda 7200 3TB
Corsair 650D
post #3713 of 6656
OK, first thing, don't panic.

Now, because of the things you described, I think it is safe to say you have a major problem somewhere, and patience is necessary to find out where.

First thing to do is pull everything out of your case. You are going to test one thing at a time as best you can and then hopefully find the gremlin.

First thing that needs to be tested is your power supply. If you don't have another working computer handy that you can swap your Seasonic into (preferable), you can test the power supply by using a paper clip (metal) to short the green wire with any of the black wires on the main power plug (22 pin). Directions here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components

If your power supply fan kicks on then you can assume all is well. Better yet, get yourself a multimeter from radioshak for $20 and test a few of the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V pins.

If power supply checks out then you move on to the mobo. Place on a cardboard box with only the cpu and cpu cooler installed. Plug in the power supply to mobo, and finally plug power into wall. flip the power supply switch to on, and you should see a led go on on board . If not, then your board is toast and you need to rma. If the LED comes on then you want to short the pins for the power switch. You can use a small flat head screwdriver for this. Check your manual as to which two pins belong to the power switch. Once you touch the two pins with screwdriver, the cpu fan should kick on. If not, then either you board is toast or something wrong with cpu or the cpu cooler fan. Again, if you have a multimeter, you can test a few of the power supply's plugs and make sure you are getting reasonable readings. If you don't get either 3.3V, 5V or 12V reading, then its the mobo. If the cpu fan spins up as expected, then switch the power supply off, unplug and slap a stick of ram in slot closest to cpu and plug in power supply and flip power supply switch to on. If cpu fan spins up ok, then turn off power supply and install your gpu. Keep going piece by piece until you find the culprit. Make sure along each step you look closely at everything and look for any signs of trouble like small bit of smoke or burning smell. You'll want to turn off your power supply in a hurry if that happens.
post #3714 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by barkeater View Post

OK, first thing, don't panic.

Now, because of the things you described, I think it is safe to say you have a major problem somewhere, and patience is necessary to find out where.

First thing to do is pull everything out of your case. You are going to test one thing at a time as best you can and then hopefully find the gremlin.

First thing that needs to be tested is your power supply. If you don't have another working computer handy that you can swap your Seasonic into (preferable), you can test the power supply by using a paper clip (metal) to short the green wire with any of the black wires on the main power plug (22 pin). Directions here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components

If your power supply fan kicks on then you can assume all is well. Better yet, get yourself a multimeter from radioshak for $20 and test a few of the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V pins.

If power supply checks out then you move on to the mobo. Place on a cardboard box with only the cpu and cpu cooler installed. Plug in the power supply to mobo, and finally plug power into wall. flip the power supply switch to on, and you should see a led go on on board . If not, then your board is toast and you need to rma. If the LED comes on then you want to short the pins for the power switch. You can use a small flat head screwdriver for this. Check your manual as to which two pins belong to the power switch. Once you touch the two pins with screwdriver, the cpu fan should kick on. If not, then either you board is toast or something wrong with cpu or the cpu cooler fan. Again, if you have a multimeter, you can test a few of the power supply's plugs and make sure you are getting reasonable readings. If you don't get either 3.3V, 5V or 12V reading, then its the mobo. If the cpu fan spins up as expected, then switch the power supply off, unplug and slap a stick of ram in slot closest to cpu and plug in power supply and flip power supply switch to on. If cpu fan spins up ok, then turn off power supply and install your gpu. Keep going piece by piece until you find the culprit. Make sure along each step you look closely at everything and look for any signs of trouble like small bit of smoke or burning smell. You'll want to turn off your power supply in a hurry if that happens.
Man, that is awesome advice. I think it's killer that people are willing to be so helpful at a forum like this. I've copied and pasted that advice into an archived how-to text file for a day that hopefully never comes (for me).
post #3715 of 6656
Thread Starter 
Yea stick around here, there are a lot of good folks willing to help.
X99 Main Rig
(10 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5960X Extreme Edition @ 4.5GHz Always Changing VisonTek R9 290 G.Skill Ripjaws 4 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 128GB M.2 PCI-E 4x SSD Apotop 256GB SSD 1.82TB NAS Noctua NH-D15 with both fans 
OSPower
Win7 Pro Enermax 1000W 
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X99 Main Rig
(10 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5960X Extreme Edition @ 4.5GHz Always Changing VisonTek R9 290 G.Skill Ripjaws 4 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 128GB M.2 PCI-E 4x SSD Apotop 256GB SSD 1.82TB NAS Noctua NH-D15 with both fans 
OSPower
Win7 Pro Enermax 1000W 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3716 of 6656
barkeater, thanks for the timely reply. That's my standard test procedure.

PSU tests fine, and works in another system without issue. I'm getting power to the board no problem. Here is a detailed description of the problem:

1. Switch on on-board power button. (Power switch on the board is lit up)
2. CPU fan spins up.
3. I get some odd character on the debug LED. BIOS LED blinks on then off.
4. Everything shuts down.
5. Process repeats without me having to push anything. This continues about 4 times then stops.
6. Power button no longer functions.
7. Clearing cmos allows power button to function again, and the process repeats as described in steps 1-6

Currently my MB is on cardboard with only PSU CPU and 1 stick of RAM. I tried without the RAM and it made no difference.

So what we know:
1. PSU is good. It powers system if even temporarily, and works fine in another system. Replacing the PSU with one from another system has same results.
2. I believe RAM to be good, but don't have another system to test in. I have 2 sticks, have tried both sticks individually with the same results. It is possible that both sticks are bad, but I would expect unlikely. Still these aren't confirmed good.
3. CPU state unkown. I have no way to test the CPU outside of this system.
4. MB cannot be verified. There's nothing left for me to swap out.

I'll try using a VM on all PSU pins once I get my toolbox back.
post #3717 of 6656
Well. got mine stable @ 1,320v. smile.gif temp are 70-80 doing 20 ibt passes at maximum.

Now my question.. do i really need to turn off all the energy savings options?
More, i really dont like prime95, even so, i did over 2 hours with custon;max mem and no errors, should i do more? its mainly a gaming machine, hardly maxing out the cpu...

Thanks for all the good help already given and for the ones coming. ;P
post #3718 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris-br View Post

Well. got mine stable @ 1,320v. smile.gif temp are 70-80 doing 20 ibt passes at maximum.
Now my question.. do i really need to turn off all the energy savings options?
More, i really dont like prime95, even so, i did over 2 hours with custon;max mem and no errors, should i do more? its mainly a gaming machine, hardly maxing out the cpu...
Thanks for all the good help already given and for the ones coming. ;P

I'm perfectly stable after testing custom test with 36k min and max size fft's for 30 min, and checking I get no WHEA errors in the Event Viewer (under Windows logs, System)
Just for the heck of it I run Prime95 blend, custom test with 90% of my ram and 5min test duration for 6hs and I fold like 14hs a day)
post #3719 of 6656
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfarlow View Post

barkeater, thanks for the timely reply. That's my standard test procedure.
PSU tests fine, and works in another system without issue. I'm getting power to the board no problem. Here is a detailed description of the problem:
1. Switch on on-board power button. (Power switch on the board is lit up)
2. CPU fan spins up.
3. I get some odd character on the debug LED. BIOS LED blinks on then off.
4. Everything shuts down.
5. Process repeats without me having to push anything. This continues about 4 times then stops.
6. Power button no longer functions.
7. Clearing cmos allows power button to function again, and the process repeats as described in steps 1-6
Currently my MB is on cardboard with only PSU CPU and 1 stick of RAM. I tried without the RAM and it made no difference.
So what we know:
1. PSU is good. It powers system if even temporarily, and works fine in another system. Replacing the PSU with one from another system has same results.
2. I believe RAM to be good, but don't have another system to test in. I have 2 sticks, have tried both sticks individually with the same results. It is possible that both sticks are bad, but I would expect unlikely. Still these aren't confirmed good.
3. CPU state unkown. I have no way to test the CPU outside of this system.
4. MB cannot be verified. There's nothing left for me to swap out.
I'll try using a VM on all PSU pins once I get my toolbox back.

what is the post code error?
X99 Main Rig
(10 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5960X Extreme Edition @ 4.5GHz Always Changing VisonTek R9 290 G.Skill Ripjaws 4 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 128GB M.2 PCI-E 4x SSD Apotop 256GB SSD 1.82TB NAS Noctua NH-D15 with both fans 
OSPower
Win7 Pro Enermax 1000W 
  hide details  
Reply
X99 Main Rig
(10 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5960X Extreme Edition @ 4.5GHz Always Changing VisonTek R9 290 G.Skill Ripjaws 4 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 128GB M.2 PCI-E 4x SSD Apotop 256GB SSD 1.82TB NAS Noctua NH-D15 with both fans 
OSPower
Win7 Pro Enermax 1000W 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3720 of 6656
when you cleared the cmos did you use the button on the board or did you use the jumper? I'd suggest doing a hard cmos reset by the following.

with the power plugged into wall but off:

pull battery and flip over and reinstall
set cmos jumper to reset
press power button on mobo and hold for 2 min
wait 5 min and then reset jumper to normal and reseat battery the right way

are you getting any system beeps along the way?

You could try with the graphics card in (or use the internal graphics) and connect your monitor to see if you are getting anything on display when this looping is occuring.
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