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GIGABYTE Z77X Owners/Discussion/Information/Support Thread and Club (UD5H, UD3H, D3H, and ALL) - Page 476

post #4751 of 6656
Thread Starter 
you can just hit the clear CMOS button without turning anything off, and it will clear the CMOS, but to fully clear everything you need a full shutdown.
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post #4752 of 6656
Quote:
The bios switch just switches between either of the (dual) bios. It's helped me out a time or two. I have had bios get corrupted before to the point of not wanting to boot, and flipping the switch enabled me to boot and copy the backup bios to the main.(or vice versa)

I didn't realize you could copy over the bios. how do you do that exactly? So basically instead of doing a cmos reset you just flip the switch, copy over a bios from a profile that you have saved on the back-up bios (? i thought you couldnt edit the bios on back up or something... or is that you can't update it?), and then boot up with those settings on the main bios?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cab2 View Post

AMD is more fun but you don't have to work so hard at this. I posted details in this thread before, with my 3570k I get a 1GHz overclock to 4.4 GHz with a simple offset of +0.04 V everything else is default. Your 1.5+V is too much, above 4.4 Ghz you have diminishing returns.

I'm not asking about diminishing returns, I enjoy overclocking. I got the $79 UD5h over a $19 g41 or $64 extreme4 because I want to push a high end 24/7 air overclock, as long as I stay within voltage and temp limits (and I'm okay with liberal limits too) I'll be happy to push voltage an extra .2 or whatever just for another 100mhz. You can say it's diminishing return but an extra 100mhz is still extra performance, that's a good fps or few extra in streaming.

Why do you say AMD is more fun?

Thanks for your post though, i think 1.5v maybe bit too much.
Quote:
you can just hit the clear CMOS button without turning anything off, and it will clear the CMOS, but to fully clear everything you need a full shutdown.

Ah i got the impression from the manual that it was damaging or something. What exactly doesnt get cleared if i don't turn if fully off? or do you mean, like, if you got a bad bios settings and can't boot, if you dont pull off power and all, there's a chance a cmos reset might not actually reset it 'enough' and you still can't boot in, requiring a full effort, power off, plug pull, cmos reset.

Anyways does on/off charge feature work with verizon droid phone, ie not apple? I'm a bit confused on this feature - do I need this to charge the phone when the pc is off (but plugged in), or with non-apple phones you'll off charge without needing this special program?

I only got a single search result for non-apple phones with on/off charge, the only response was some unintelligeble garble, the guy said his pc turned off charged his droid but he didn't make clear if he was using the program and it was necessary, or he wasn't.

and do people use the atheros or intel lan (i see there's a driver or lan optimizer for the atheros chip on gigabytes site).

on a side note the uefi (that's the screen that lets you move the mouse around?) doesnt let me move the mouse up/down, only side to side, and it's laggy. but why would anyone use the uefi over the bios (the one where you clearly use a keyboard, looks more traditional)?
Edited by Belial - 2/1/13 at 12:18pm
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post #4753 of 6656
Thread Starter 
on/off charge works with every USb device, i change my phone with it. It just means that the USb port will be power while the system is off. And gigabyte boards allows almost 3x the current to the USB ports including USB 3.0 than the standard, because they use one fuse per port and these fuses can handle more current.

You can copy over the main BIOs to the backup by pressing ALT+F10 on bootup, ALT+F9 also works, but you need to flick the switch after the main BIOS loads into the memory, and then press write and then it will write to the backup, don't worry if it says fixture. Anyways ALT+F10 is to just copy main to backup, and the thing is you have a BIOS ROM and then you have CMOS. CMOS has all your settings, and it is wiped out if there is a loss of power, from the battery or otherwise.

The Clear CMOS switch is just a switch which totally cuts off power to the board(even cuts the battery power) and when that happens the CMOS memory is gone, and thus your CMOS is reset. The BIOS is just the physical ROM in the chip. However the issue is that sometimes the PSU's capacitors still have power in them and supply electricity and can charge some of the capacitors(that is why your power button stays on even while you turn off the PSU's switch). Then you also have the board storing power in its caps too, so the best way to clear the CMOS is to unplug the PSU, then take out the battery, and short out the battery leads(this will help discharge some of the caps) and then hold down the clear CMOS button to discharge everything else.

When i need to clear the CMOS I just hit the button, but sometimes that might not work, some parts are still in the memory and you need to wipe them with total power loss.

After you flash a BIOS it is imperative to do a power cycle as the CMOS needs to be cleared, sometimes it isn't and causes major issues with settings sticking after BIOS flash.
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post #4754 of 6656
wow. thanks lol.
Quote:
that is why your power button stays on even while you turn off the PSU's switch).

dat detailed response. i feel like your right behind me.
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post #4755 of 6656
The way they have these bios set up now, they will always power cycle after using Qflash to flash the bios, which is good.

Just to add to the general knowledge, pin 9 (+5V SB) on the motherboard 24 pin connector stays hot when the rig is shut down. I use it and pin 7 (ground) to supply +5V to my Aquaero fan controller in standby mode.
Flipping the psu switch of course cuts all power to the motherboard, except what is stored in the capacitors as Sin said. Pressing the power switch for a few seconds helps drain the board before doing a full cmos clear.
post #4756 of 6656
Unreal. After many months of not having the dreaded USB 3.0 port failure message, all of a sudden it constantly pops up on one of my UD5H boards.
I broke a pin on the Intel header so I'm using one of the headers on the edge of the board.
I just started using this board again after a few months of using the UP4 TH, and the first thing I did was update the bios and drivers. Aaaaargh!

My other UD5H which has been in use constantly had the error messages related to the USB ports pop up 3 times yesterday after being banished for many months. I'm using the Intel USB 3.0 header on this board. WTH.

Did anyone ever nail down exactly what causes this? I assumed it was the early crappy drivers since I had not seen it in so long, but now it's back for some reason.
Might be time for a new fresh Windows install.
post #4757 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by h3r1t4g3 View Post

My screen flickers non stop. At first I didn't notice this because I had my GPU installed, but since having to RMA it and use the on board graphics I've seen nothing but these flickers.

Did you install the Intel HD Graphics Driver?
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22375
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post #4758 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Unreal. After many months of not having the dreaded USB 3.0 port failure message, all of a sudden it constantly pops up on one of my UD5H boards.
I broke a pin on the Intel header so I'm using one of the headers on the edge of the board.
I just started using this board again after a few months of using the UP4 TH, and the first thing I did was update the bios and drivers. Aaaaargh!

My other UD5H which has been in use constantly had the error messages related to the USB ports pop up 3 times yesterday after being banished for many months. I'm using the Intel USB 3.0 header on this board. WTH.

Did anyone ever nail down exactly what causes this? I assumed it was the early crappy drivers since I had not seen it in so long, but now it's back for some reason.
Might be time for a new fresh Windows install.

Under Windows 8 Pro (USB 3.0 drivers built-in) on my UD5H, I have found inconsistent results from USB 3.0 devices. I have no problems with my Lexar 32GB USB 3.0 Jumpdrive or with my WD My Book 3TB USB 3.0 on either the Intel or Via USB headers. But a Corsair Flash Voyager GT 32 GB USB 3.0 drive only works on the Intel header, giving a USB device not recognized error on all other USB 3,0 ports. I figure the problem is both problematic drivers and problematic hardware (perhaps both the Via chip & the Corsair drive which I have already RMAed once).

BTW On my P55A-UD4P, the USB 3.0 ports produce exactly the same inconsistent results with these devices under Windows 8. That machine has a NEC USB 3.0 controller (do I remember correctly that it was bought by Via?)
post #4759 of 6656
Whenever I setup hardware RAID from within the BIOS, I get a blue screen. I set SATA Mode to RAID, go into the RAID setup screen, setup my RAID, reboot and get a BSOD. I have my SSD hooked up to one of the SATA 3 connectors and my two WD Blues hooked up to two of the SATA 2 headers. I boot up and I get a BSOD.

The board manual doesn't state anything about this but do the drives I want to use for the RAID setup need to be plugged into specific SATA headers?
Edited by 8bitG33k - 2/3/13 at 12:38pm
post #4760 of 6656
Thread Starter 
make sure they are in the black headers.

Mandrix, i think there is an option you can set so that those notification don't pop up, i think that was part of the fix for some.
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