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post #5351 of 6656
@Tim Milano:

This guide uses a Gigabyte board and you can use anything you read there for the GA-Z77X-D3H: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

About how far it'll go, it depends purely on how lucky you got with your CPU. The board itself is very good and won't hold any overclock back.

I'm not sure the Hyper 212 Evo is really that good. If you can get Thermalright coolers in Australia, look at those. The True Spirit 120 Rev.A is pretty similar in price to the Hyper 212 Evo and is at least as good. Those coolers are about 25 EUR where I'm from. If you go up a little with the price, Thermalright sells much better coolers for about 40-50 EUR (True Spirit 140 and HR-02 Macho). You'll have to look up if they fit in your case regarding their height. Also look at what happens at 60-80 EUR. That's where good deals on Noctua NH-D14 and Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E and the big Zalman with three fans should be.

Thermal paste can make a big difference. The name of the thermal paste that comes with your cooler should be mentioned somewhere in the documentation or marketing materials. You can try to find that exact paste in a review and look at comparisons. Perhaps you're already getting something good with the cooler you'll buy.

You can use both 3-pin and 4-pin fans on the CPU fan header of the GA-Z77X-D3H. 3-pin has to be controlled through voltage. You can change the CPU fan header to use voltage instead of PWM in the BIOS. It's on the same page where you can change the fan speeds.

For the rest of the fan headers of the board, the manual mentions if they can be used to control the fan speeds. The first fan header is the only one that can use voltage to control a 3-pin fan, the other ones all need 4-pin PWM fans if you want to control them. I think you can only control all fans simultaneously in a program like SpeedFan on the GA-Z77X-D3H. You can't change each fan's speed individually.
post #5352 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sin0822 View Post

Hey man whats up. So as the guy above said A6 or really Ab as there is no top bar to make it a 6, means you are in the UEFI. if you see nothing on the screen then there is something wrong with your GPU configuration, however if youa re in the UEFI and you have code Ab or A6 then everything is good, nothing bad.

Now your USB drives can replace HDDs and SSDs in the boot order. To get over this, under BIOS Features menu, find the boot selection options, BUT go into this option: HDD BBSE Priorities, if you have other devices then you wont ever see your HDD in the boot menu until you go into the BBSE priorities menu and change it to be the first one int he list.


hi there
thank you for your prompt reply in helping me.
i have done as what you have suggested, however i still could not find my hd in the bios. my problem is that the boot priority selection in the bios is colored yellow which means its not accessible or i could not access that menu in bios. what is wrong with my ud3h?

please help me.

thank you
post #5353 of 6656
I just bought this motherboard. (UD5H)

  • Is it easy to overclock?
  • How is the UEFI BIOS?
  • What is the latest BIOS for the UD5H? (F15Q on their website)
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post #5354 of 6656
Yea. Honestly, SB and IB are easy to OC on any stable OC capable board. It's always the same, up the voltage, up the multiplier, and play with LLC.
UEFI does what it needs to. If you want to check it out before you get your board up and running, check this.
Latest is F15r. Check this thread for latest BIOS. I wouldn't recommend using F15q, it's bad.
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post #5355 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by alter ego 5150 View Post

hi there
thank you for your prompt reply in helping me.
i have done as what you have suggested, however i still could not find my hd in the bios. my problem is that the boot priority selection in the bios is colored yellow which means its not accessible or i could not access that menu in bios. what is wrong with my ud3h?

please help me.

thank you

heres another thing that i observe in my ud3h, when i plug in a usb drive, i could access the boot priority selection, however when i go into the hdd bbs priority menu, it will only show the usb device which just plugged and the disable button, it would not detect the hard disk in the selection.

help help, help
post #5356 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

I spoke with Gigabyte many months ago about using DTS Connect.
DTS Connect does not work with the audio on the UD5H, the hardware just does not support it. The only reason it's on the install disk is because it's part of a prepackaged program that they didn't bother to remove DTS Connect from.
If you can find an old Creative DTS-610 off Ebay or wherever it will do what you want, but they are getting pretty hard to find.
I use one to interface between my pc and the HT in another room. One of the drawbacks is that it only outputs 44.1, but it will encapsulate wav 5.1 to DTS and send along a toslink cable to an AVR capable of decoding DTS.

I'm afraid that if you want to use DTS Connect you are going to have to buy a sound card that supports it. Don't even bother with the Creative flavor of DTS Connect, it only works with certain of their sound cards.

Auzentech, Creative, and some others have sound cards that support DTS Connect.

But you should be able to use a program like PowerDVD with the right settings to achieve what you want to do.

***4/17 UPDATE***
Bought a new receiver and received it today:). Onkyo TX-NR515. Now that I have an HDMI input on my receiver I am good to go. 5.1 surround sound in everything with no problems. Using HDMI from GPU for audio. Motherboard HDMI not working (probably becuase iGPU is disabled).
Only problem I have now is that the passive sub from the old system doesn't seem like it can be connected to the new receiver without an amp. Time for new speakers, I guess.
********************




***Original Post***
Unfortunately, you are correct about DTS Connect and DDL. Gigabyte tech support got back to me the following monday, telling me that there's no way to add either to my onboard audio.


A little google research has led me to believe that if I buy a new receiver that has HDMI inputs, I will be able to get 5.1 while playing most pc games. Is this true?

Would I be able to output audio through a receiver from the motherboard HDMI at the same time I am outputting video from my GPU's DVI or HDMI ports? Does anyone here have such a setup? If so, is there syncing issues between audio and video?
I assume it wouldn't be any different than I have it now, with audio coming from the mobo optical and video coming from the gpu. It's rare that I have syncing problems, and when I do, I can use the media player's software to adjust the delay.


I am thinking about getting a reconditioned Onkyo TX-NR414 https://www.shoponkyo.com/detail.cfm?productid=TX-NR414&modelid=61&group_id=1&detail=1&ext_war=1 for $240. Would I be able to do what I want with this receiver, or will I be in the same situation as I am now? Any other recommendations?


I have not found many sound cards that do what I want. Any other recs? I couldn't find any DTS-610s on ebay.


Thanks for the help.
Edited by Cheepnis - 4/17/13 at 5:07pm
post #5357 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by deepor View Post

@Tim Milano:

This guide uses a Gigabyte board and you can use anything you read there for the GA-Z77X-D3H: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

About how far it'll go, it depends purely on how lucky you got with your CPU. The board itself is very good and won't hold any overclock back.

I'm not sure the Hyper 212 Evo is really that good. If you can get Thermalright coolers in Australia, look at those. The True Spirit 120 Rev.A is pretty similar in price to the Hyper 212 Evo and is at least as good. Those coolers are about 25 EUR where I'm from. If you go up a little with the price, Thermalright sells much better coolers for about 40-50 EUR (True Spirit 140 and HR-02 Macho). You'll have to look up if they fit in your case regarding their height. Also look at what happens at 60-80 EUR. That's where good deals on Noctua NH-D14 and Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E and the big Zalman with three fans should be.

Thermal paste can make a big difference. The name of the thermal paste that comes with your cooler should be mentioned somewhere in the documentation or marketing materials. You can try to find that exact paste in a review and look at comparisons. Perhaps you're already getting something good with the cooler you'll buy.

You can use both 3-pin and 4-pin fans on the CPU fan header of the GA-Z77X-D3H. 3-pin has to be controlled through voltage. You can change the CPU fan header to use voltage instead of PWM in the BIOS. It's on the same page where you can change the fan speeds.

For the rest of the fan headers of the board, the manual mentions if they can be used to control the fan speeds. The first fan header is the only one that can use voltage to control a 3-pin fan, the other ones all need 4-pin PWM fans if you want to control them. I think you can only control all fans simultaneously in a program like SpeedFan on the GA-Z77X-D3H. You can't change each fan's speed individually.

Wow thats so much useful information thanks heaps!
post #5358 of 6656
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheepnis View Post

PowerDVD can be used to play pc games with 5.1 surround sound???

Unfortunately, you are correct about DTS Connect and DDL. Gigabyte tech support got back to me the following monday, telling me that there's no way to add either to my onboard audio.


A little google research has led me to believe that if I buy a new receiver that has HDMI inputs, I will be able to get 5.1 while playing most pc games. Is this true?

Would I be able to output audio through a receiver from the motherboard HDMI at the same time I am outputting video from my GPU's DVI or HDMI ports? Does anyone here have such a setup? If so, is there syncing issues between audio and video?
I assume it wouldn't be any different than I have it now, with audio coming from the mobo optical and video coming from the gpu. It's rare that I have syncing problems, and when I do, I can use the media player's software to adjust the delay.


I am thinking about getting a reconditioned Onkyo TX-NR414 https://www.shoponkyo.com/detail.cfm?productid=TX-NR414&modelid=61&group_id=1&detail=1&ext_war=1 for $240. Would I be able to do what I want with this receiver, or will I be in the same situation as I am now? Any other recommendations?


I have not found many sound cards that do what I want. Any other recs? I couldn't find any DTS-610s on ebay.


Thanks for the help.
I don't know about PowerDVD and games, I was thinking 5.1 music from the optical out. When it comes to games (I'm not a big gamer) I use the analog outs to an AVR for 5.1 output.

As for HDMI, that's the setup I use on my HTPC. It has a HD6450 low profile card and I bitstream to my Onkyo AVR via HDMI. It's easy to do with an AMD graphics card, I don't know about the Nvidia cards as I've never owned one.
The video card passes the hi res signal untouched (bitstream) .
On my HTPC I usually use Arcsoft TMT for listening to High res music/movies, although I sometimes use Windows MCE to listen to Hi res music in .mkv format with the proper codecs installed.

Probably get more help with all this either in the HTPC section or some of the HTPC forums on the net.
post #5359 of 6656
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by alter ego 5150 View Post

heres another thing that i observe in my ud3h, when i plug in a usb drive, i could access the boot priority selection, however when i go into the hdd bbs priority menu, it will only show the usb device which just plugged and the disable button, it would not detect the hard disk in the selection.

help help, help

I would try another SATA plug or another SATA cable, make sure your SATA power is working as well, because the board isn't detecting the drive at all frown.gif .
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post #5360 of 6656
Hey guys, I Recently started my OC on this board, i've read quite a bit of this thread and others but am still not sure about the llc voltage.
If I recall the default voltage is set at 1.8v.
Does anybody know how low I can go to bring down temps a little.
Right now i'm running at 4.5ghz idling at 34-38c and 75-80c under load.
I'm very busy and cannot sit at my system to tweak all day long and prime test after each change.
I would appreciate a little help.
Thanks
    
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