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GTX 680 EK waterblock with EVGA backplate troubles - Page 3

post #21 of 50
4/9/12 at 7:07am
No problem. thumb.gif
You can also always use slide gauge to measure distance between thread steps (P).
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post #22 of 50
4/9/12 at 7:14am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirectOverkill View Post

No problem. thumb.gif
You can also always use slide gauge to measure distance between thread steps (P).

lol what the heck is a slide gauge? is that something that i would do on my own, or would a home depot have that to use?

lol ignore this whole question as i didn't realize that is what that tool is called...new wrinkle in my brain.
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post #23 of 50
4/9/12 at 7:40am
I think you would have to grab screws from a hardware store. Or do some research on the size ek uses.. keep in mind the evga back plate has a different screw head size... I had this exact issue, I wanted to use the back plate from my 470...
This is what I did...
Research the part number for the ek screws.. go online or to a local hobby shop and see what they offer.., the ONLY thing I would do is get longer screws then cut them down..its the only way..unless ek is very hardcore satisfying their customers..
Good luck and have fun..
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post #24 of 50
4/9/12 at 7:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by v1ral View Post

I think you would have to grab screws from a hardware store. Or do some research on the size ek uses.. keep in mind the evga back plate has a different screw head size... I had this exact issue, I wanted to use the back plate from my 470...
This is what I did...
Research the part number for the ek screws.. go online or to a local hobby shop and see what they offer.., the ONLY thing I would do is get longer screws then cut them down..its the only way..unless ek is very hardcore satisfying their customers..
Good luck and have fun..

dang, so this happened on the 4xx cards too...how the heck did i miss this?

man if i knew that i would have just gotten the ek backplates...thanks for the help!
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post #25 of 50
4/9/12 at 7:46am
GG...
Like juano said, take the screw to HomeDepot, fit it on the nuts they have there, to find out what thread it is, and find another one that is longer. Double check on the nut you used to find the thread size. rolleyes.gif
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post #26 of 50
4/9/12 at 9:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruelntention View Post

dang, so this happened on the 4xx cards too...how the heck did i miss this?
man if i knew that i would have just gotten the ek backplates...thanks for the help!
IMO just get the ek back plates...what stopped me from moving along with the evga back plate was..even if I could find the screws it would look crappy.. the screw heads wouldn't look right

Or you can opt for those back plates cold zero sells....
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post #27 of 50
4/9/12 at 12:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by v1ral View Post

IMO just get the ek back plates...what stopped me from moving along with the evga back plate was..even if I could find the screws it would look crappy.. the screw heads wouldn't look right
Or you can opt for those back plates cold zero sells....

thank you! for right now i'm just going to use the evga backplates without the screws, i have it benching unique right now too see if temps get crazy hot or not, closer examination of the card and pressure pressing it, using screws wouldn't put anymore pressure on plate/pcb/block at all, it literally is a snug fit with just the 4 screws on there around the gpu chip.

TdGyI.jpg
tJK6v.jpg
IlG1i.jpg

1st pic, you'll notice that only the 4 spring screws are in
2nd pic, if you look towards the left side of the pic, there are 2 silver/chrome washers on each side of the pcb, thats where one screw would go, it looks pretty snug
3rd pic, right by the corner you should see thermal strip wedge in between one of the vrms, again snug fit.

running gpu z and hardware monitor, the temps haven't gone over 48* and idles at 25*
the back plate is warm to the touch so i assume that the heat is evenly distrubited through that backplate and the bottom of the block is warm as well across the whole block.
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post #28 of 50
4/9/12 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirectOverkill View Post

No problem. thumb.gif
You can also always use slide gauge to measure distance between thread steps (P).

This is what you should do to solve your problem

Also look at the EK Manual, Another poster posted the what i believe is the Part # for EK.

knowing a bit about EU companies, EK uses the metric system, thus the screw you need is most likely (m3) - is my guess /m4/etc... buy a $5.00 thread gauge, and use these links below, and you won't damage anything.

http://www.muzzlecouplings.com/measuring_thread_size.htm

http://www.roton.com/identify_threads.aspx
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post #29 of 50
4/9/12 at 1:25pm
Look at the last section of your installation manual under Required Tools and Mounting Screws.
m3.png

It's M3. You should be able to find them at HD or Lowes, however they're going to be zinc plated not black oxide.
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post #30 of 50
4/9/12 at 1:29pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ve1ocity View Post

This is what you should do to solve your problem
Also look at the EK Manual, Another poster posted the what i believe is the Part # for EK.
knowing a bit about EU companies, EK uses the metric system, thus the screw you need is most likely (m3) - is my guess /m4/etc... buy a $5.00 thread gauge, and use these links below, and you won't damage anything.
http://www.muzzlecouplings.com/measuring_thread_size.htm
http://www.roton.com/identify_threads.aspx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post

Look at the last section of your installation manual under Required Tools and Mounting Screws.
m3.png
It's M3. You should be able to find them at HD or Lowes, however they're going to be zinc plated not black oxide.

@ve1ocity & Raul-7

thank you, i will go look for them at HD and lowes today
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