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How do you leak test?

post #1 of 13
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How do you power the pump without it being attached to your computer PSU?
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post #2 of 13
Yes, someones please asnwer this. Most people have an extra psu hanging around, but I don't...
post #3 of 13
What do you have lying around your spare parts cabinet. Here is what I do but its only one solution and not the best. I had an ancient mobo so I hooked up a psu to it (no cpu) or ram and cross wired the switch to the mobo so that when you hit the power switch it provided power to the mobo. This I use to trick my phase units into running while my benching rig is off so that when i fire up my benching rig it is very chilly .

Ok now the easier solution is to bridge the power detection pins on the psu. For detasils on how to do this take a look at Cyberdruids threads he posted something recently...
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post #4 of 13
Just unplug your PSU from every component aside from the pump, then take the 20/24 pin power plug and bend a paper clip into the green wire of the psu and then a black one (the one next to it is the easiest) if your PSU is plugged in you should get power. If not just plug it in and turn it off/on with the switch on the back of the PSU.
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post #5 of 13
Power Supply Tester

If you don't mind spending $13.98 this is a life saver. Just unplug ALL your connectors from your components, plug the 20(24) pin connector into the tester and hook up a free connector to the pump. Power your PSU on/off a few times to cycle the fluid through the loop. Then let it run for an hour or two while periodically checking for leaks at every connection in your loop.
post #6 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akhen
Just unplug your PSU from every component aside from the pump, then take the 20/24 pin power plug and bend a paper clip into the green wire of the psu and then a black one (the one next to it is the easiest) if your PSU is plugged in you should get power. If not just plug it in and turn it off/on with the switch on the back of the PSU.
Thats what I do works like a charm, except I use wire with a male molex pin on each end....
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post #7 of 13
I used to jump my psu but then I just bought a $5 AT PSU with a switch on it. Works great and you can leave it running as long as you like with no worries.
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post #8 of 13
Anybody ever thought of using air pressure instead of liquid for testing? You could put a tee anywhere convenient in the line and fit it up with a small ball ****, a gage and a squeeze bulb to pump it up; you wouldn`t even need an air compressor. Just pressure it up to say, 5 psi, and let it sit for an hour. If you don`t lose any pressure, you know your system is tight, as air will leak long before liquid does. If it does leak down, increase the pressure to no more than 10 psi, and daub soap around potential leak areas. That will show up a leak pronto, and you will not have risked your rig to any liquid damage. This is such an easy and cheap test, that I don`t know why it hasn`t been tried here before.
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post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
Anybody ever thought of using air pressure instead of liquid for testing? You could put a tee anywhere convenient in the line and fit it up with a small ball ****, a gage and a squeeze bulb to pump it up; you wouldn`t even need an air compressor. Just pressure it up to say, 5 psi, and let it sit for an hour. If you don`t lose any pressure, you know your system is tight, as air will leak long before liquid does. If it does leak down, increase the pressure to no more than 10 psi, and daub soap around potential leak areas. That will show up a leak pronto, and you will not have risked your rig to any liquid damage. This is such an easy and cheap test, that I don`t know why it hasn`t been tried here before.
That would work fine, it's basically how they pressure test rad's....
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post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
Anybody ever thought of using air pressure instead of liquid for testing? You could put a tee anywhere convenient in the line and fit it up with a small ball ****, a gage and a squeeze bulb to pump it up; you wouldn`t even need an air compressor. Just pressure it up to say, 5 psi, and let it sit for an hour. If you don`t lose any pressure, you know your system is tight, as air will leak long before liquid does. If it does leak down, increase the pressure to no more than 10 psi, and daub soap around potential leak areas. That will show up a leak pronto, and you will not have risked your rig to any liquid damage. This is such an easy and cheap test, that I don`t know why it hasn`t been tried here before.
If you have an acrylic reservoir you would want to be careful not to crack it or break its seals doing this.

When you test the loop for leaks, If it doesn't leak liquid within a couple of hours it's probably not going to.
    
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