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Water cooling components assessment

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
Hey all. I am planning to cool my GTX 580 (will upgrade to CPU and maybe motherboard later on) and I was wondering if you could take a look at the parts I'm considering as I'm quite new with water cooling.

There is a link to my cart here:

PDF

639
647

Should you have any questions please tell me - the link for each item can be found in the PDF file (just click on the item)

I would really appreciate any help!

Thanks,
Mathias
Edited by mvrb - 4/10/12 at 9:35am
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post #2 of 22
I think you may have two extra fittings. Unless you plan on getting a pump top?!

2 for radiator
2 for GPU block
2 for Res

What are the other two for?
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post #3 of 22
Thread Starter 
I don't really plan on having a pump top, but I just thought I needed the two extra fittings for the pump anyway. Thanks for your help. Is it a nice build anyway?
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post #4 of 22
Everything looks good to me, a single 360mm rad could cool CPU if you just get a good block like a ray storm.
post #5 of 22
Some people will yell about using colored coolant. If you go this route just make sure you regularly check for clogging before the dyes break down and you have a catastrophic failure.
    
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post #6 of 22
Are you planning on putting 3/8" tubing straight onto the pump? That is going to be hard. Very hard. The D5 comes with 1/2" barbs and I have heard that it can sometimes be hard to get 1/2" tubing onto them.

I would advise you to get a pump top, something like this, if you plan to use 3/8" tubing. Then you can use your extra two fittings and you are good to go.

Otherwise it looks great. The rad will happily handle your GPU and CPU / mobo when you decide to add them.

Obligatory coolant warning - grahh coloured coolant bah, grr etc etc. It is fine, the Mayhems stuff is very good, shouldn't be any problems with it breaking down.
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post #7 of 22
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your help. I will go with the extra two fittings as it's cheaper and I won't have to change my cart.
If I understood that correctly? Or do I HAVE to get the pump top if I use this tubing?
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post #8 of 22
Well the fittings won't go on the pump. The pump comes with 1/2" barbs moulded into the stock top. There are no threads and no way to change them without changing the top.

You choices are:
  • Buy a pump top and the fittings to use with 3/8" tubing.
  • Try to get the 3/8" tube onto the 1/2" pump barb - very hard
  • Use 1/2" tubing
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post #9 of 22
Thread Starter 
Ah, makes sense. On Performance- PCS.com I could change the pump to be able to accept the tubing so I'll see if I can do that on HighFlow - if not, then pump top it is. Thank you again.
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post #10 of 22
Yes, they came out with the D5 "Special Edition" which had G1/4 threaded ports rather than barbs - that is possibly what you were looking at on PPCs. They don't seem to be available on HighFlow.

Incidentally the PMP-450 and the MCP655 are pretty much the same pump - Laing D5's. The only real difference is that the PMP-450 comes with a tach sensor (blue wire), and it is €20 cheaper... I would go with the PMP-450 and a pump top.

Edit: Good post covering the PMP-450 / MCP655:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Both are a Laing D5-38 Vario pump:
http://completewatersystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/LTSS-27.pdf
{snip}

Only difference is the Koolance version comes with the blue RPM wire installed.

In addition Swiftech includes some accessories in the box such as a neoprene vibration dampening pad and instructions.

I like having the RPM wire feature myself as an easy motherboard shut down, but I do also like getting the neoprene pad with the swiftech package.

Both manufacturers note voiding warranty with the top is modified although some have suggested that Koolance is a bit more forgiving although I've never had any experience to suggest either one is any better. I take the personal stance that if I modify a pump with a top that I'm going to own anything that happens which I would suggest as well. Aftermarket tops do stress the pump motor more than usual, so I think that's only fair.

Anyhow, the only one to avoid is the "Basic" or fixed speed model pump. Per the specs it's not very clear that it's a lower powered pump, when it's actually stuck at setting 4 which is quite a bit weaker than the setting 5.

Edited by GingerJohn - 4/10/12 at 10:53am
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