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Heatsink fell off cooling block - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by von rottes View Post

HOW THE FFFFFUUUU?!?!?!?
I'd suggest using some Arctic alumina to put it back on...that stuff is like a thermal super glue!
Yea I was looking at that but it sounded a little too strong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munkypoo7 View Post

Well, the picture does work, so that's a plus smile.gif
Um. I'll admit, I'm not exactly familiar with the Striker 2 as I never owned it, but by the edges of the heatsinks it seems they used a pushpin style mechanism to lock down the heatsink to the board. Simple reinsertion of those pushpins (they're little plastic caps with two legs for a lack of better words) should solve your problem. This imo, would be your best option.
The other option would be to sue thermal adhesive (such as the ArcticSilver Adhesive) keep in mind, with thermal adhesive you're pretty much locked in forever with it, it's extremely powerful as far as adhesion is concerned, you get one shot to let it cure. Though before the curation is complete it is still flexible and redo-able. However, the Sekisui 5760 is good thermal tape. plus it would be much easier to apply than thermal glue. Otherwise, that's always an option too in case the Sekisui doesn't have enough adhesion capability.
It's screws I'm afraid & its that screwed on plate that has detached from the cooling fins. I'm going to take a look at the tape first but will also buy some of that thermal adhesive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post

Those fins are normally soldered to the plate, looks like ASUS is being a bit sloppy. I would sand off that extra adhesive and replace it with something like Arctic Alumina adhesive, as a prior poster mentioned.
I know it's rubbish quality & the thermal gunk they use is basically cement. I'm going to try the tape first but will have the adhesive on standby just in case.

Thanks everyone
post #12 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by von rottes View Post

... Yeah its not coming of with Alumina...but reattaching the base of the heatsink to the fins...I don't think he'll EVER need to pull those apart thumb.gif

Okay I'm going the alumia route then smile.gif
Edited by gamesmonkey - 4/15/12 at 11:12am
post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamesmonkey View Post

Okay I'm going the alumia route then smile.gif


We are talking about the bond between the fins and the plate....correct and not the contact between the chips and the plate?
Just making sure I understand this correctly..

Cos if you use the Alumina between the heatsink and VRM/chipset it will NEVER come off
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Princess Luna
(13 items)
 
Trixie
(14 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8320 Gigabyte GA-970a-UD3 HD 6870 kingston hyperX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Kingston HyperX 3k Western digital Caviar blue Antec Kuhler 620 Windows 8.1 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
HP W1907 Logitech mk520 Corsair CX750M Cooler master HAF 912 
Mouse
Logitech m310 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
E6700 Asus P5G41T-M LX MSI 5450 kingston hyperX 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Western Digital IDE rosewill rcx-z2 Windows 8 Gateway LE500 
PowerCaseMouse
Power something 335.5watt In-win IW-V605T2 Logitech 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by von rottes View Post

We are talking about the bond between the fins and the plate....correct and not the contact between the chips and the plate?
Just making sure I understand this correctly..
Cos if you use the Alumina between the heatsink and VRM/chipset it will NEVER come off

Yea that's the one. That would be a disaster redface.gif got some alumina adhesive on the way.
post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
The Alumina route went well and heatsink is now firmly back together. Now I have a new problem mad.gif
I was following this guide trying to prevent my Striker II from overheating (Link). I followed all the instructions removing the mosfet pads and replacing everything with MX-2 then fired up. Upon booting it blue screened with a (Page thread exception error) I think it was I can't quite remember. Had to lower my memory speed to 1333mhz to get stable. I then realised that his board was the earlier revision without mosfet cooling pads and my board was the new 1.02 with space for a thermal pad on the mosfets. I would of refitted the original pads back but they was damaged during removal of the heatsink so measured them to 1mm and ordered some Phobya Thermal Pad XT which I cut to size and fitted to my mosfets. This actually seemed slightly worse. My temeratures on OCCT for assembly is between 34C-38C and assembly(2) is between 38C-40C which i'm guessing is the NB & SB. Which seem good temps to me. I have just ordered the Phobya Thermal pad Ultra 5W/mk and after reading around the internet is much softer than the rubbery XT's I have at the minute. The original Asus pad was a lot softer almost like a cheese slice.

Things that I think could have caused the instability:
  • Mosfet thermal pad not compressing enough
  • Thermal glue affecting heat transfer to cooling fins
  • NB/SB needing more than a fine layer of MX-2 or Arctic silver 5 paste

Can anyone please help me as I'm lost with it all thinking.gif
Many thanks everyone

P.S Memory runs fine at 1600mhz without overclocking CPU
Will not boot at 1600mhz linked & synced FSB at 3.4Ghz
Edited by gamesmonkey - 4/26/12 at 5:29pm
post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 
Can anyone help? happysmiley.gif
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