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Are these normal temperatures? - Page 3

post #21 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceteris View Post

Did you try taking out the EK parallel bridge and use the old connector(s) to see this? Pain in the butt to take off, but I think we should eliminate that possibility.

Unfortunately, I don't have an extra 90 degree fitting for that to work atm. My top video card has a long PCB and the fitting holes are only at the bottom.

I'll try it once I'm able to order one. For now, I just have to try to bleed the top radiator; which I'm having trouble doing.
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post #22 of 32
To bleed my top mounted radiator i had it removed and with the ports facing up, then when it got bled, i mounted it up.
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post #23 of 32
Thread Starter 
I can't remove my radiator without removing fittings, unfortunately.The only option I have now is to tilt the case upside down, and to do that, I need another hand (to keep the reservoir in place).

I honestly hope that the bubbles are the reasons for my temp increase. I was actually playing Witcher 2 today and both of my GPUs managed to reach 74 degrees. This is horrible considering the amount of Rads I have.

QQ frown.gif
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post #24 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by andom View Post

I can't remove my radiator without removing fittings, unfortunately.The only option I have now is to tilt the case upside down, and to do that, I need another hand (to keep the reservoir in place).

I honestly hope that the bubbles are the reasons for my temp increase. I was actually playing Witcher 2 today and both of my GPUs managed to reach 74 degrees. This is horrible considering the amount of Rads I have.

QQ frown.gif

 

There is no guarantee, but air bubbles can cause higher temps then an air cooled GPU.

 

One question I have, if they are reaching that insane of a temp, do they cool down fast or no, if not then there is either no flow, or the restriction is too great.  Or air bubble.

 

You may not like this, but you might need to man handle the case and shake the ever loving bejesus out of it.  Listen for bubbles in the radiator, you are probably sure what they sound like by now.  You also have to visualize in your head, where bubbles are travelling if you can't see them.  You will need to "walk" them out slowly which means holding it at unique angles always keeping in mind that air will always be at the highest point of the case.  If you move to quick they go back to whatever corner they were hiding out, or just bounce to a new hidey spot.  Big trapped pockets of air will not move on their own, they will need your help getting out of there.  As you work the air out into the reservoir, you will increase air pressure in the reservoir and the water level should slowly rise as you "fill" the loop.  You may need to vent the air out as it can get too "pressurized" and impeded the flow of water ever so slightly.


Edited by RagingCain - 4/18/12 at 8:46pm
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post #25 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingCain View Post


There is no guarantee, but air bubbles can cause higher temps then an air cooled GPU.

One question I have, if they are reaching that insane of a temp, do they cool down fast or no, if not then there is either no flow, or the restriction is too great.  Or air bubble.

You may not like this, but you might need to man handle the case and shake the ever loving bejesus out of it.  Listen for bubbles in the radiator, you are probably sure what they sound like by now.  You also have to visualize in your head, where bubbles are travelling if you can't see them.  You will need to "walk" them out slowly which means holding it at unique angles always keeping in mind that air will always be at the highest point of the case.  If you move to quick they go back to whatever corner they were hiding out, or just bounce to a new hidey spot.  Big trapped pockets of air will not move on their own, they will need your help getting out of there.  As you work the air out into the reservoir, you will increase air pressure in the reservoir and the water level should slowly rise as you "fill" the loop.  You may need to vent the air out as it can get too "pressurized" and impeded the flow of water ever so slightly.

It takes about 2-3 minutes for the temperatures to go back down to idle levels.
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post #26 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by andom View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingCain View Post


There is no guarantee, but air bubbles can cause higher temps then an air cooled GPU.

One question I have, if they are reaching that insane of a temp, do they cool down fast or no, if not then there is either no flow, or the restriction is too great.  Or air bubble.

You may not like this, but you might need to man handle the case and shake the ever loving bejesus out of it.  Listen for bubbles in the radiator, you are probably sure what they sound like by now.  You also have to visualize in your head, where bubbles are travelling if you can't see them.  You will need to "walk" them out slowly which means holding it at unique angles always keeping in mind that air will always be at the highest point of the case.  If you move to quick they go back to whatever corner they were hiding out, or just bounce to a new hidey spot.  Big trapped pockets of air will not move on their own, they will need your help getting out of there.  As you work the air out into the reservoir, you will increase air pressure in the reservoir and the water level should slowly rise as you "fill" the loop.  You may need to vent the air out as it can get too "pressurized" and impeded the flow of water ever so slightly.

It takes about 2-3 minutes for the temperatures to go back down to idle levels.

 

Then try and juggle your case in the air moving any potential bubbles out, or make sure you have an actual loop, and not accidentally having two ins to a radiator (where the water flow fights itself).

 

That is a long time to cool down however the temperature its cooling down is very high for water to reach so it will not easily be removed.  I would logically following your tubing making sure every inlet is an inlet, every outlet is an outlet.  There is definitely working against your flow.  Don't be afraid to tear it apart again, that simply is doing you no good to have temps reaching 50+c and defeats the entire purpose of water.  Also make sure to check your CPU block isn't clogged if you haven't cleaned it out.  I have to clean my CPU block no less than 3 times going on 2 years now... I never do understand how hair gets in that the damn system -.-

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post #27 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingCain View Post


Then try and juggle your case in the air moving any potential bubbles out, or make sure you have an actual loop, and not accidentally having two ins to a radiator (where the water flow fights itself).

That is a long time to cool down however the temperature its cooling down is very high for water to reach so it will not easily be removed.  I would logically following your tubing making sure every inlet is an inlet, every outlet is an outlet.  There is definitely working against your flow.  Don't be afraid to tear it apart again, that simply is doing you no good to have temps reaching 50+c and defeats the entire purpose of water.  Also make sure to check your CPU block isn't clogged if you haven't cleaned it out.  I have to clean my CPU block no less than 3 times going on 2 years now... I never do understand how hair gets in that the damn system -.-

Hm, I'm thinking that I may have the inlets and outlets in my SLI bridge placed wrong. Does anyone have an EK SLI bridge? Does it matter where you placed your inlet and outlet?
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post #28 of 32
There is a such thing as too much thermal paste, and if you use as much as it says on the EK instructions for a 580/570 waterblock it might be too much. I think it really might be worth it for you to drain you loop and check all of your blocks for clogging if you haven't already. Especially if you have older (pre June 2011) EK blocks.
    
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post #29 of 32
Thread Starter 
Yup, I looked at the instruction manual and my outlet was definitely in the wrong hole

Herp derp.
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post #30 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by andom View Post

Yup, I looked at the instruction manual and my outlet was definitely in the wrong hole
Herp derp.

Did this sort your issues?
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