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Testing my TEC (finally) - Page 3  

post #21 of 28
Yes it should cool it but the 226 watter may not do the job you need. Really a 437 watter and the block\\cold plate and cooling system to suit is needed. Try and catch me on Vent at some time and I can talk you through it.
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post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideburns
You're using a peltier to cool a peltier?

hate ot break it to ya...but that AIN'T gonna work. Not evena little bit...ahaha
Actually many people do that... Its called a cascade tec system. You start with say and 80watt tec, then ontop of it you put a 200wat, then ontop of that, you put a 450watt tec. Then you have to cool the last tec, which is a challenge, though if done can yeild extremely low temps.

Im most likely going to try this my self, i have an old ~60watt (geuss) tec i pulled from a drink cooler for inside a car. And im going to buy a 226watt pelt to mount ontop of it. Then hopefully my wc system can cool the hot side well enough to get me some sub freezing temps....


Quote:
Originally Posted by tuchan
Yes it should cool it but the 226 watter may not do the job you need. Really a 437 watter and the block\\cold plate and cooling system to suit is needed. Try and catch me on Vent at some time and I can talk you through it.
You really think a 400+ watt tec is needed? What is the vent info... hell ill go on right now...
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post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuchan
correct, I had the fan reversed so it was sucking from the HSF and blowing very cold air out. The only problem was it would freeze up in time so it ended up being a failure. I was turning my case into a very cold box.
there was a case that ahd a peltier to cool off the ambient temp inside the case
the concept is great, and it was sopposed to keep the inside of the case at a nice cool 19C, which it didnt quite achieve, drew a lot of power and cost a ton of money. so in short it was yet another crappy impelentaation of whats really a good idea. i might look into cooling my case a little with one of these!~

http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/10/...herm_ics_8200/
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post #24 of 28
Thread Starter 
I forgot to mention.. i was using PC PSUs so the voltage was crap. I checked it and it was putting out 10.49V, whereas the max voltage for the TEC is 15V!

That is why it wasn't frosting.. not enough voltage. It is dead now.. the ceramic is chipped (was before, it finally fell of yesterday..) and a corner of it is dead(just heats up)...

Time to but a new one to fool around with!

And a dedicated power supply..

Anyone know ehere I can get a CHEAP PS for a TEC? Also, very inexpensive TECs other than on eBay?
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post #25 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxmonkey321xx
I forgot to mention.. i was using PC PSUs so the voltage was crap. I checked it and it was putting out 10.49V, whereas the max voltage for the TEC is 15V!

That is why it wasn't frosting.. not enough voltage. It is dead now.. the ceramic is chipped (was before, it finally fell of yesterday..) and a corner of it is dead(just heats up)...

Time to but a new one to fool around with!

And a dedicated power supply..

Anyone know ehere I can get a CHEAP PS for a TEC? Also, very inexpensive TECs other than on eBay?
If you're just playing around with them, build the PSU that's stickied in the TEC section. You can build it anywhere from 13 to 18 volts or higher depending on the PSU's you use.
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post #26 of 28
Thread Starter 
Only problem is i dont have that many PSUs lying around anymore :<
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post #27 of 28
Not to beat this to death but stacking TEC's works perfectly fine and will give you an overall lower temperature on the final stage. However, due to the low efficiency and acumulated heat of the peltiers I personally don't think it's worth the extra investement. If you want the lowest temps possible I would recomend going with phase change cooling.

I was originally planning to stack peltiers and did quite a bit of testing only to find out that I wasn't willing to sacrifice $350 worth of extra rads as well as having my comp pull 1.4kW idle just to have my CPU read -25c compared to -5c.

Undervolting high wattage / large surface area peltiers seems to be the way to go. I am running a 437W module rated up to 24V @ 13.5V and it is keeping my OC'd 3.5GHz FX-57 @ -5c idle / +7 load.
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post #28 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uberleet Superninja
Not to beat this to death but stacking TEC's works perfectly fine and will give you an overall lower temperature on the final stage. However, due to the low efficiency and acumulated heat of the peltiers I personally don't think it's worth the extra investement. If you want the lowest temps possible I would recomend going with phase change cooling.

I was originally planning to stack peltiers and did quite a bit of testing only to find out that I wasn't willing to sacrifice $350 worth of extra rads as well as having my comp pull 1.4kW idle just to have my CPU read -25c compared to -5c.

Undervolting high wattage / large surface area peltiers seems to be the way to go. I am running a 437W module rated up to 24V @ 13.5V and it is keeping my OC'd 3.5GHz FX-57 @ -5c idle / +7 load.
Stacking TEC's is what my next step is in my TEC system.
They work like a charm stacked.
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