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post #21 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by douglatins View Post

About the bay res, there arent many options. I would advice EK or alphacool options. Frozenqp are expensive, but look great
Acetal is proffered to acrylic also.

Thanks. I'll take a look.
The FrozenQ dual bay res sure looks nice and is not pump specific. I would still mount it together with a pump to save space though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by heyskip View Post

I used a RP452X2 v1.3 in a 800D with a very similar rad setup to what your planning. I had 360 at the top, 140 at the rear (ports towards bottom), 240 on the bottom. Bleeding time from start to full with just micro bubbles was around 3-4 hrs. There was alot of tipping/inverting of the case to get all the air out, but I put that down to the radiator placement not a fault with the reservoir. Especially the rear radiator placement with the ports at the bottom, this rad was difficult to bleed. Having dual pumps also help when you need that extra flow to bleed complex systems and you can turn them both down for normal usage.
I now have a RP452X2 v2.0 (because I like the look of it more) in a case labs case, running 4 x 360 rads. Last time I filled the system I was completely bubble free within 1-2 hrs. These Koolance res/pump combos are very capable. In the 800D or 700D having the pumps/res in one will also free up alot of space.

Thanks for the feedback. Honestly I really don't want to spend 3+ hours bleeding the loop and I'll probably have a rather similar setup.
However, from what you are saying, the loop length combined with placement and restriction of rads is more to blame than the bay reservoir itself.
Does this mean I am going to run into bleeding issues regardless of any bay res I get ?
post #22 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gauvi View Post

Thanks for the feedback. Honestly I really don't want to spend 3+ hours bleeding the loop and I'll probably have a rather similar setup.
However, from what you are saying, the loop length combined with placement and restriction of rads is more to blame than the bay reservoir itself.
Does this mean I am going to run into bleeding issues regardless of any bay res I get ?

I think with 3 rads mounted in different parts of the case and with different orientations, the bleeding process will probably involve inverting the case at some point and a fair bit of rocking/shaking etc. I would try and keep the rear mounted 120 rad orientated with the inlet/outlet at the top, might make it a bit easier.

Either way its nothing to be overly worried about, the system will bleed up eventually. I don't know if im weird or not, but I actually enjoy filling and bleeding my loop now smile.gif
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post #23 of 33
You could always just bolt a 9x120 or 9x140 mm rad to the side of the case externally - especially if you don't have to travel with the case very often. Usually there is enough space somewhere to get the tubing out of the case even if you are reluctant to mod (a empty 5.25'' slot, unused PCI bracket, often dedicated WC holes at the back) or if you are willing to drill two holes then using bulkhead fittings, especially in combination of quick disconnects should make fitting it even easier.

Although I must admit that was not what you were asking for wink.gif
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post #24 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by heyskip View Post

I think with 3 rads mounted in different parts of the case and with different orientations, the bleeding process will probably involve inverting the case at some point and a fair bit of rocking/shaking etc. I would try and keep the rear mounted 120 rad orientated with the inlet/outlet at the top, might make it a bit easier.
Either way its nothing to be overly worried about, the system will bleed up eventually. I don't know if im weird or not, but I actually enjoy filling and bleeding my loop now smile.gif

Makes sense. Thanks for the tip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carniflex View Post

You could always just bolt a 9x120 or 9x140 mm rad to the side of the case externally - especially if you don't have to travel with the case very often. Usually there is enough space somewhere to get the tubing out of the case even if you are reluctant to mod (a empty 5.25'' slot, unused PCI bracket, often dedicated WC holes at the back) or if you are willing to drill two holes then using bulkhead fittings, especially in combination of quick disconnects should make fitting it even easier.
Although I must admit that was not what you were asking for wink.gif

Indeed I'd rather keep everything contained within the case.

I have decided to go with the UT60 as initially intended (unless major changes in the next few days in Martin's radiator shootout)
I just need to pick one motherboard that has a fairly low heatsink on the VRMs and/or be careful with the n-pin power plug that's usually at the top of the board.

If it still doesn't fit, well I'll have to mount 3 of the fans outside the case...frown.gif
post #25 of 33
Thread Starter 
Ok I'm still debating over those damn radiators (I know I know...)

Thing is, I got my new system set up and seeing how it is inside the case kind of changed a few parameters.

First, there's no way the UT60 would fit in push/pull.

Second, since I'll be using the top fans as intake (for positive pressure, trying to minimize the dust inside the case) I want a Demciflex dust filter (the one customized for Corsair 700/800D) and it will need to be easily removable for cleaning, which means I can't really mount 3 fans outside the case.

Third, the 120mm fan on the back will be used as exhaust (no rad), bottom 140mm fan will be used as intake with a 140mm radiator.

So the new contenders for the top radiator:
- Swiftech MCR320XP + AP15 in push/pull, intake - Depth 34mm + 2x25mm = 84mm
- Alphacool Nexxxos UT60 + AP15 in push only, intake - Depth 60mm + 25mm = 85mm

Depth-wise, they would be similar and could fit so which do you think would be best and why ?
post #26 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomTaco View Post

Just out of curiosity are you going to be OCing your system a ****load? What are your specs when it's all done? If you're planning to WC a CPU and a GPU with OC a single 360mm rad wouldn't cut it, even in push-pull (maybe it might be able to with push pull on very high fan speeds, but even then you're leaving no headroom I'd imagine). Long story short it would be easier for us to help you if you gave us a bit more info on what you are trying to have as a finished product.
EDIT:
I take back the idea that you cannot decently cool a cpu and gpu with a 360mm rad, but it really depends entirely on how you are going about this, if they are older power hungry cards like the 400 series, or if you're planning to do some ocing you're TDP is going to climb and it'll be harder to decently cool it with a 360 rad alone.

My rig defies your notion. I've got an i5 2550K @ 5ghz with 2x 5870s on a single 60mm-thick 360mm rad. Temps for the CPU are so-so, but the GPUs don't get hotter than 35-40C depending on the game.

@OP, just go for what fits and will make you happy. Most radiators don't even have a huge difference between the normal thickness and double-thickness (except during low speeds) and the difference is usually 1-3C.
    
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post #27 of 33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokin View Post

@OP, just go for what fits and will make you happy. Most radiators don't even have a huge difference between the normal thickness and double-thickness (except during low speeds) and the difference is usually 1-3C.

I see. What I'm trying to gauge is whether a slim rad in push/pull would hold its own against a thick rad in push only (or vice-versa ?)
Some tests also show not a big difference in push/pull vs push only.

On one hand, I really like the UT60: lots of features, great performance but it won't fit and if I have to settle for a slimmer rad (see point 2)
On the other hand, I want push/pull (hence the question, is it really necessary ? I might be mistaken...) so the MCR320XP might be good as well since it's got great performance for its slim profile.
post #28 of 33
Thinner rads with push/pull will absolutely hold their own, and depending on the gap between the 2 radiators with just push, they may actually out-perform the thicker rad. See here, from Martin's Liquid Lab:

xspc-rxvsrs-thermals.png?w=614

You can see the RS360 P/P outperforms the RX360 P by more than the RX360 P outperforms the RS360 P. If the performance gap is pretty similar with your two radiators, I'd expect the same to hold true.
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post #29 of 33
I'll find out once my 2nd set of 4 2150GTs come in (they've been missing for over a month now frown.gif) and I'll test out push and push/pull on my rad, which is similar to the RX360.
    
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post #30 of 33
Hmm... UT60 will fit in a 700D with push fine because a RX is only a few mm thinner than a UT60. Look at my rig for what it will look like. There's ample room. As for modding, it's a requirement, mandatory. Skip the 360 and go straight to a 480. It's easy as cake man, it really is. I'd hardly call it a mod even, it's that easy.
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