It's that time of the week again, folks. That's right! Russian mITX update time!
I finished up the wiring of the keypad switches. (I singed a few wires sadly.)
After a lot of thinking and testing I realized that there's just no way to get the keypad to be both a code entry device and a USB keypad at the same time. The matrix of the pads was just too different. The only way I could see making it work was to make my own USB keypad. I was really close to doing that with the Arduino and a HID shield and some day I may go back and make that work, but I must finish this mod before QuakeCon.
To make the keypad function as the code entry pad I need to disable the existing matrix of the USB keypad. I won't lie. I shed a tear... For Science!
Good. The light still comes on. I didn't mess anything up.
After testing the keypad thoroughly, I needed to secure it. Surface solders are extremely weak. Enter the Hot Glue Gun...
To make the keypad function even when the computer is turned off (but still plugged in) I needed to draw power from the 5v stand by line of the PSU. Unfortunately the keypad needs 12v. So I got a DC DC step up converter.
A little solder and some more hot glue, and its ready.
The keypad is looking a little fragile. Nothing that a little hot glue can't fix! Ok. Maybe I have an unhealthy obsession with hot glue... I'll seek help soon. Just let me secure one more thing; then I'm done with the stuff. I swear.
Well I figure the electronics are all ready and tested. I just need to put them all inside a project box so they are protected and don't look like crap. First the nixie tube temperature monitor.
You know what I just realized? I'm never gonna be able to take this on a plane...
Now that looks nice. I probably could have done a better job with the hole cutting and that hot glue looks a bit tacky (pun intended), but overall this looks pretty nice. The two 15 pin d-subs are for the nixie tubes. The 24 pin d-sub is for the keypad. And the two 9 pins d-subs are for the various indicator lights, the CPU meter and the power switch pass through.
The two holes are for the temp and glow controls. USB connector is for the Arduino and the Molex plug is for power for the temp sensor and the code entry device. That cable sticking out the back is the temp sensor.
So to power this thing I need a 12v line and the 5vsb line. Unfortunately the only 5vsb line from the power supply goes straight to the motherboard. No problem. I shall make a bypass!
I'm so sneaky...
And a custom cable. (Its only temporary. I'll make a pretty one once I get to cable sleaving.)
Well it looks like I didn't make any mistakes.
And now for a demo video...
Also, good news everybody! I was finally able to order a GTX 680! Yay! So I think I'm done spending money. I hope.