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[Work Log] ящик (Box) - mITX + Russian military theme - Page 18

post #171 of 220
I believe he just used a drill bit slightly larger than the internal diameter of the rivets.
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post #172 of 220
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty77 View Post

Hello! I'm just wondering what's the name of the tool that you use to remove those rivets(?). Thanks a lot! And I love your custom build! Keep it up!

Dremel with a 5/32 (i think!) drill bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxbassplayerxx View Post

I believe he just used a drill bit slightly larger than the internal diameter of the rivets.

Bingo! I was really bad at this when I started this mod. In fact, I had never in my life removed a pop rivet. But this video the Mod Master, Bill Owen inspired me to try it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xu56PKFPlSM

I almost messed up the holes on my first few tries, but I quickly got better. These last 6 rivets came out in less then 5 mins with no mistakes.
post #173 of 220
I'm guessing that the engraver didn't get round to your project before he had to go for surgery, so a 1 week wait for an update.

The man needs to get his priorities straight...




I kid. Hope his surgery goes well.
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post #174 of 220
Thread Starter 
Yep. Sorry. I should have said something about that. It's ok though. I have plenty of time to finish things before QuakeCon!

This weekend I have some electrical stuff left over to do. I decided to go with incandescent light bulbs in the indicator lights. To do this I have to rig up a transistor to my +5vsb line and also to the led circuits. I'm using this as a guide. http://kineticsandelectronics.com/control_a_light It's gonna be fun! PLUS, it is something I've never seen on a computer, but always wanted to. I love how incandescent lamps ramp up when you turn them on and then slowly fade out when you turn them off. It's so calming.
post #175 of 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxbassplayerxx View Post

I believe he just used a drill bit slightly larger than the internal diameter of the rivets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xevin View Post

Dremel with a 5/32 (i think!) drill bit.
Bingo! I was really bad at this when I started this mod. In fact, I had never in my life removed a pop rivet. But this video the Mod Master, Bill Owen inspired me to try it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xu56PKFPlSM
I almost messed up the holes on my first few tries, but I quickly got better. These last 6 rivets came out in less then 5 mins with no mistakes.

Thanks for the replies smile.gif I'm gonna try some noob modding so i asked hehe... Good luck on your build Xevin biggrin.gif
    
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post #176 of 220
If this has already been answered I apologize, but where did you get the bayonet USB's?

Also subbed!
post #177 of 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warsmith View Post

If this has already been answered I apologize, but where did you get the bayonet USB's?

Also subbed!
You're welcome.
 
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post #178 of 220
Thread Starter 
OK so I just heard back from the engraver. It looks like he won't be back to work till the 30th! That's gonna make it seriously hard to finish the mod in time for QuakeCon. It only give me 2 days to finish things up and one of those days I will have to be at work! This is going to be a serious challenge...

Also I spent the better part of this weekend trying to get the incandescent bulbs to work, but I just can't figure it out. When I wire everything up according to that guide I found (and this one too: http://bildr.org/2011/03/high-power-control-with-arduino-and-tip120/) the light remains on ALL the time, not just when it gets the signal to light up. I think it has something to do with the way the door lock circuit works on the same ground line that the high voltage line goes to or something. I don't have any electrical training, so I'm really stumped by this one. If there is an electrical genius reading this; please help me. I may have to fall back to the original LED design to get this completed by the deadline.

After the lighting problem I only have to figure out how to mount the nixie tubes, the cpu meter, the keypad and the top fan grill. Everything else is panel mount and super easy. Also I have to get the top HD slot rigged with a sata and power port, although I think I have the perfect solution for that.

Then I have to wire everything together. This include the front audio ports to the front panel audio headers on the motherboard, the power button to door lock NO circuit. the cpu meter to arduino, the lights to their respective controllers, the switches to the ground lines of the temperature and door lock circuits and then finally the usb ports to a motherboard usb header.

Also at various point throughout this build, I need to re-mount things with pop rivets.

Lots of fun ahead and not a lot of time. I feel like I'm forgetting something...
post #179 of 220
Sounds like sleepless nights tongue.gif
post #180 of 220
Sounds like it's time to find a new engraver...
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