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Advice for GTX680+2600K single loop

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hello everyone.
I've been waiting over a year to go to the USA to be able to buy a very nice watercooled PC. Due to unexpected events (sister broke up with fiance) I'll only be able to go now.
This is what I have right now: Cosmos S, 2600K, P67-UD5, 16GB RAM, Xonar STX, Vertex 3 120GB and plenty of HDD.

I plan on getting myself one or two GTX680s, a Seasonic 850/1000/1050 Gold or Platinum PSU, maybe some more SSDs/HDDs and a nice watercooling setup.
I might as well buy something Ivy Bridge if they launch while I'm still on the USA. I won't have a chance to buy hardware this cheap within two years.

As for the WC, this is what I have in mind:

360 radiator -> I have tons of space, so the rad can be very thick. I've measured and 420 does not fit. I want to run between fanless and 2500RPM (something in between the GTX360 and the RX360) Which are the best performers on that range? (I'll read the Martin reviews when I have the time, currently I'm being eaten alive by schoolwork)

Supreme HF (nickel or gold) / Apogee HD (black or gold) / Raystorm / Koolance 370 -> since their cooling capabilities are very close, I think I'll go with the prettiest one. The Supreme looks awesome but I'm afraid of the plating quality, I'm not particularly in love with any of the others. Should I go with the Supreme HF or will the plating be a problem? Is the Gold plating any better than the Nickel?

FrozenQ res / EK res -> The FrozenQ looks fantastic, but I've been seeing a lot of quality complaints. And the colors I want might not be in stock. And I'm in doubt about the possible port configurations.

One or two MCP355 or MCP655 -> The MCP655 has a version with variable speed, so it can be very quiet, much quieter than a MCP355, am I correct? Will I benefit much from two of them in series? Should I go aftermarket top?

240 radiator -> same 360 rad. These two rads will be enough for a heavily overclocked 2600K and two 680s?

One or two blocks for the 680(s), whichever ones I find in stock.


Others:

Tubing -> no idea what to choose. Thinking either 7/16 or 1/2 OD. (I'd choose 7/16 but there are less compression fittings available) Which brand is the best of the best?

Compression fittings -> no idea what to choose. All quality brands have around the same price, am I correct? Which ones are the highest quality and best looking?

Liquid -> I wanted something colored with clear tubes so it would look good on the res, but after reading many horror stories I'm thinking distilled may be better. Or is it?

Fans -> Gentle Typhoons GT15 (1850RPM) is likely the choice, maybe a faster model or something from Noiseblocker.

~Noise: I want this build to be very quiet when idle (use a controller to change the radiator fans to very low speeds or maybe off, the PSU automatically goes fanless when there's little draw, Windows turns the HDDs off when inactive, and the D5/MCP655 pumps have variable speed, right?) but it can be very very loud (and I mean Delta fans loud) when I'm out of the room or gaming with headset.
~Budget: I can spend as much as I'd like, I just don't wanna waste unnecessary money cause I'd rather buy a pair of very good speakers (Dynaudio Excites), an HP EliteBook, iPhone 4S and more stuff.

Here's a picture/diagram of what I have in mind (ignore some of the labels cause I did it long ago): http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4351/pcsingleloop.jpg
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post #2 of 17

I could be wrong, because I'm not too familiar with that case, but you might have an issue fitting both radiators inside of the case, it doesn't look like there is much room in the bottom.

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post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trendy View Post

I could be wrong, (...) but it doesn't look like there is much room in the bottom.
Ive measured multiple times and there is! Ive seen a couple of builds on this case where the bottom was dremel'd for the 240 rad to fit (:

i have already done many cable management holes which do not appear on the picture...
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post #4 of 17
It looks like you've done quite a bit of research there!

For you PSU, I'd suggest going for at least 1000, according to this chart, you'd need about 900-1000 watts for two way 580 sli
And thats only the 580. But water cooling also takes a pretty good toll on your power supply, and having a lot of fans and a pump could be too much for a bare minimum wattage meeting requirement, although I may be incorrect.

For fittings, I really like the monsoon fittings because they come in such a variety of colors, and it's easier to match them up with your case and stuff. Most other companies have black or chrome or silver colors

There is a tubing database here on the forums too, and you could check for your self which tubing is good or bad, But I think most brands are good except Tygon.

Oh, and you may want to lower your pump a little more, it looks like it may have a harder time filling up with water, but it shouldn't be a problem once your whole loop is filled. Or actually, it may be fine how it is now, I'm not exactly an expert on fluid dynamics.

I like my raystorm block because it lights up biggrin.gif

Uhh, I don't think fanless radiators work? Martin did a test on that, and it failed.

I hear that people who recommend the 655, also recommend the variable speed. At that price, its not much of a difference between standard and the variable, and I hear it very easy for bleeding a system.
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post #5 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peopie View Post

And thats only the 580. But water cooling also takes a pretty good toll on your power supply, and having a lot of fans and a pump could be too much for a bare minimum wattage meeting requirement, although I may be incorrect.
A single MCP655 aka D5 uses at most 24W on setting 5 and closer to 3W on setting 1 where I keep mine. Efficient fans like Gentle Typhoon AP-15s use less than 1W each at 12V. I use Kama Flow 2 1400 RPM fans, which are still ~1W each at 12V.

So my setup is:
2x Laing D5 setting 1 = 6W
10x Scythe Kama Flow 2 1400RPM = 10W

16W total...

And in reality those fans never have 12V going through them...more like 3-8V most of the time.
Edited by kidsafe - 4/19/12 at 5:07am
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post #6 of 17
According to my Aquaero and PA2, a single D5 running at (5) is pulling 1.6A, so that's roughly 19.2W.. I'd need a special controller like that of Koolance to push it to 24W, Martin did a review on this a while back and the results were negligible, pro vs con was not worth it as the heat generated from the extra wattage was dumped into the loop, end result gain was minimal.. a simple 12v line was more then enough.


360 radiator -> I have tons of space, so the rad can be very thick. I've measured and 420 does not fit. I want to run between fanless and 2500RPM (something in between the GTX360 and the RX360) Which are the best performers on that range? (I'll read the Martin reviews when I have the time, currently I'm being eaten alive by schoolwork)

Excellent choice since 2500RPM fans would work great with high FPI radiators.. Aren't the GTX the newer model of the RX? I forgot, HWL makes very good radiators...


Supreme HF (nickel or gold) / Apogee HD (black or gold) / Raystorm / Koolance 370 -> since their cooling capabilities are very close, I think I'll go with the prettiest one. The Supreme looks awesome but I'm afraid of the plating quality, I'm not particularly in love with any of the others. Should I go with the Supreme HF or will the plating be a problem? Is the Gold plating any better than the Nickel?

You can get the same performance by just going with the EK copper version, problem solved biggrin.gif

As for gold vs nickel plating? good question, theoretically gold does transfer heat better, but the inside of the block is not gold, it's copper.. I think it's more about the "bling" factor.. Be it EK, Apogee HD, Raystorm or the 370, all are very good blocks, comes down to which one you like that looks the best with the rest of your stuff.



FrozenQ res / EK res -> The FrozenQ looks fantastic, but I've been seeing a lot of quality complaints. And the colors I want might not be in stock. And I'm in doubt about the possible port configurations.

FrozenQ res cost like $100+ last I checked, it adds that extra ounce of finesse to your build.. If Finesse is not what you are after, the EK one works just fine..

One or two MCP355 or MCP655 -> The MCP655 has a version with variable speed, so it can be very quiet, much quieter than a MCP355, am I correct? Will I benefit much from two of them in series? Should I go aftermarket top?

D5 : Aftermarket top looks better ! Period...
355: Aftermarket top performs better..
35X: no idea, have not seen complaints as of yet..

Regarding D5 vs 35x, Martin's comment on this was.... original thread here..
Quote:
Either way though, both pumps are in the "Good Options" category. Performance alone doesn't really paint the whole picture very well. The D5s are more silent at like pumping powers than DDCs, the D5s are better protected from water damage, the D5s do not have heat build up problems, and finally the D5s have a manual speed control which is a simple and easy means to adjust speed manually. D5s also generally have had fewer problems with failure than DDCs.

240 radiator -> same 360 rad. These two rads will be enough for a heavily overclocked 2600K and two 680s?

I wouldn't push my overclocks on just a 240 + 360, but that's just me, I ran a 360 + 240 on 3x SLI 580 (680 runs cooler) and a 2500K, things got pretty warm, pretty quick on 3.8 CPU, 5% overclock on the GPU's.. My ambient here sucks though, it's in the lower 30's.. If your ambient is low, it'll help a lot more..

One or two blocks for the 680(s), whichever ones I find in stock.

What do you mean one or two blocks? You mean Universal or Full Cover? both works, boils down to preference really and are you planning on reselling it? Full Cover does look better and probably easier to sell.. universal blocks + all those heat sinks popping out looks weird to me, but the universal blocks can be used again on your next GPU if you upgrade a lot..


Others:

Tubing -> no idea what to choose. Thinking either 7/16 or 1/2 OD. (I'd choose 7/16 but there are less compression fittings available) Which brand is the best of the best?

Very heated debate on this, but Primochill seems to be the cherry pick of the month. ID is over rated, performance is negligible, only thing that matters is OD and thickness, thicker tubings have a higher bend radius and is a bit "klunkier", thinner tubings has a lower bend radius as it'll kink easily, but is easier to route, just don't do any sharp turns or 180's with them.

Compression fittings -> no idea what to choose. All quality brands have around the same price, am I correct? Which ones are the highest quality and best looking?

Cant go wrong with any major brands really.. As for highest quality? I have literally dropped, banged, use vise grips (wrapped in towel or cut up tubings) on my Bitspower fittings and they look the same as day 1.. I guess you get what you pay for..

There has been a lot of other manufacturers releasing new fittings lately.. Check out some of the reviews or other user comments..

Liquid -> I wanted something colored with clear tubes so it would look good on the res, but after reading many horror stories I'm thinking distilled may be better. Or is it?

Highly debatable as there are users who used dyes, other then the staining, has no issue what so ever... Unless you know the science behind it or has done some massive research, I say just stay with colored tubings, silver coil and distilled...

Fans -> Gentle Typhoons GT15 (1850RPM) is likely the choice, maybe a faster model or something from Noiseblocker.

Since you are planning high FPI Rads, GT15 at full speed is pretty quiet compared to those of other branded fans, the air being pushed through my radiators are louder then the fans itself..

~Noise: I want this build to be very quiet when idle (use a controller to change the radiator fans to very low speeds or maybe off, the PSU automatically goes fanless when there's little draw, Windows turns the HDDs off when inactive, and the D5/MCP655 pumps have variable speed, right?) but it can be very very loud (and I mean Delta fans loud) when I'm out of the room or gaming with headset.

Since you mention budget is not really a problem, you may want to check out a "automated approach", like the Aquacomputer Aquaero.. It can be programmed to shut off your fans by probing inline temperature sensors.. It looks good too...

Cheaper versions are available like that from Koolance TMS or Alphacool heatmaster, the software is a bit clunky looking, does not come with fancy bells and whistles, but hey... It's cheaper !!

The cheapest version would just be a simple fan controller that can handle a high watt / amp output..

~Budget: I can spend as much as I'd like, I just don't wanna waste unnecessary money cause I'd rather buy a pair of very good speakers (Dynaudio Excites), an HP EliteBook, iPhone 4S and more stuff.

Gotta love toys..

whew... Took abit longer then expect, hope it helps... Good Luck thumb.gif
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post #7 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidsafe View Post

A single MCP655 aka D5 uses at most 24W on setting 5 and closer to 3W on setting 1 where I keep mine. Efficient fans like Gentle Typhoon AP-15s use less than 1W each at 12V. I use Kama Flow 2 1400 RPM fans, which are still ~1W each at 12V.
So my setup is:
2x Laing D5 setting 1 = 6W
10x Scythe Kama Flow 2 1400RPM = 10W
16W total...
And in reality those fans never have 12V going through them...more like 3-8V most of the time.

Hmm, then I think something may be wrong with my power supply

I get mysterious black screens every so often while gaming, and it hasn't happened before I added my loop
It doesn't seem to cause any problems if I underclock my graphics card though
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post #8 of 17
How many PEG connectors does your PSU have? Try using a different set or two separate cables. Your PSU has two 12V rails supporting 38A each. In other words 456W max on a single rail...If the CPU and mobo are both on 12V1 and the video card as well, it is possible that you are bumping up against the amperage limit, though it seems unlikely to me.
Edited by kidsafe - 4/19/12 at 4:21pm
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post #9 of 17
Huh, that sounds pretty confusing at first, but I think that may be a possibility

I have an antec 650 earthwatts, it has two 12volt rails at 38 amps each
I think I'll just get a new power supply though, one that'll match my white case, and It can be modular too

Thanks for your help though
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post #10 of 17
I did a 7970 heavily OC'd and a heavy OC'd 2600k on a 180mm rad... single 180x180mm rad... so you should beable to.
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Advice for GTX680+2600K single loop