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Advice for GTX680+2600K single loop - Page 2

post #11 of 17
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So much schoolwork I didn't have the chance to visit the forums yesterday. I have class Saturday and tests on Sunday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peopie View Post

It looks like you've done quite a bit of research there!
Yeah but that was in December, and some things have changed since then.
Quote:
For you PSU, I'd suggest going for at least 1000, according to this chart, you'd need about 900-1000 watts for two way 580 sli
Even though I'm pretty sure 850W will more than enough to handle anything (people buy PSUs way bigger than necessary), I will try to go 1000W for future-proofness, since the price difference is negligible anyways.
Quote:
Oh, and you may want to lower your pump a little more, it looks like it may have a harder time filling up with water, but it shouldn't be a problem once your whole loop is filled. Or actually, it may be fine how it is now, I'm not exactly an expert on fluid dynamics.
I have NO IDEA how this fluid dynamics (bleeding filling emptying) works. Right now I need to know the components, after I but everything in the USA and come back here I'll think about placement (:
Quote:
Uhh, I don't think fanless radiators work? Martin did a test on that, and it failed.
Yeah I've just read some of his reviews and have quit on that idea.
Quote:
For fittings, I really like the monsoon fittings because they come in such a variety of colors, and it's easier to match them up with your case and stuff.
Never heard of them before. I will be sure to check them out.
Quote:
There is a tubing database here on the forums too, and you could check for your self which tubing is good or bad, But I think most brands are good except Tygon.
Thanks, I will read that thread when I have the time. I though Tygon was one of the best?!? Oh well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank anderson View Post

I wouldn't push my overclocks on just a 240 + 360, but that's just me (...) If your ambient is low, it'll help a lot more..
I don't really have much of a choice, all I can add is a couple of 120s but I don't think they'll help, other than increase restriction, tubing and build price. And yes, my ambient is apparently considerably lower than yours.
Quote:
What do you mean one or two blocks? You mean Universal or Full Cover?
If I find two 680s to buy I'll get two blocks (If i only get one card I'll only get one block), since they seem to be out of stock everywhere! (and Newegg does not accept international credit cards) Definitely full cover!
Quote:
As for gold vs nickel plating? good question, theoretically gold does transfer heat better, but the inside of the block is not gold, it's copper.. I think it's more about the "bling" factor.. Be it EK, Apogee HD, Raystorm or the 370, all are very good blocks, comes down to which one you like that looks the best with the rest of your stuff.
Exactly, the blocks themselves are all copper, the performance difference is minimal. I want full plating, but am worried about flaking.
Quote:
Very heated debate on this, but Primochill seems to be the cherry pick of the month. ID is over rated, performance is negligible, only thing that matters is OD and thickness, thicker tubings have a higher bend radius and is a bit "klunkier", thinner tubings has a lower bend radius as it'll kink easily, but is easier to route, just don't do any sharp turns or 180's with them.
oooooops, in my first post I meant 7/16 or 1/2 ID (not OD). I don't think tube routing will be a problem at all. I'll get a couple 45 degree compressions, just in case.
Quote:
Regarding D5 vs 35x, Martin's comment on this was...
Quote:
Either way though, both pumps are in the "Good Options" category. Performance alone doesn't really paint the whole picture very well. The D5s are more silent at like pumping powers than DDCs, the D5s are better protected from water damage, the D5s do not have heat build up problems, and finally the D5s have a manual speed control which is a simple and easy means to adjust speed manually. D5s also generally have had fewer problems with failure than DDCs.
Nice. That made me lean towards the D5/MCP655.
Quote:
Since you mention budget is not really a problem, you may want to check out a "automated approach"
No, I want something DIY. It's that feeling you get everytime you turn the PC on and you can think "I built it myself". It's the fun (:

Choices so far:
CPU BLOCK: EK Supreme HF. Should I go for the full nickel plating or full gold plating? (which one is less likely to have problems?)
GTX680 BLOCK: EK, Koolance or EVGA? (also, which manufacturers (EVGA, Asus, MSI, Zotac, Palit, Gainward, etc) still have warranty after removing the stock cooler from the card???)
PUMP: MCP655 variable speed. Should I get one or two?
LIQUID: distilled with very little or no dyes (little die just so the res doesn't look boring/empty, tubing will probably be colored). Should I go for a silver coil or some other additive? Does the silver coil prevent corrosion?
FANS: 5 Gentle Typhoons (prob. 1850RPM) and 3 NoiseBlockers (prob ~1800RPM). Might buy some Deltas to keep "in stock" if I ever decide to go EXTREME
RADIATOR: I checked out Martin's reviews and now I'm extremely confused. According to him, the Alphacool UT60 absolutely thrashes all other rads, but I really have not heard a single word about it (only one post in the forum). Is it really that good? I'll measure the case to see if I have the room, otherwise I'll go for the XT45 (not much of a difference other than thickness and a port)
RES, TUBING, FITTINGS: Undecided. Will post a question about the ports on the FrozenQ thread when I have the time. Will research about tubing when I have the time. Will search for the preetiest fittings when I have the time.

Thanks for the replies!
I will try to get everything from Performance-PCs (since they are in Florida and I will be staying in Florida I might even go there to pick up my order; i think they let you do that), I've bought small stuff from them internationally twice and everything went perfect. If they don't have what I need in stock I will try FrozenCPU. These two fit my needs, unless there is some other store I should know about?

I really have to go. I've been sleeping for 4 hours for the fast 5 days. I'm really tired, and it's 1AM already (doesn't seem like much, but trust me, IT IS).

Also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peopie View Post

I get mysterious black screens every so often while gaming, and it hasn't happened before I added my loop
If you have an SSD make sure the firmware is upgraded. My Vertex 3 caused a BSOD every two hours. One month enduring this and was about to throw the computer outta the window, until I realized the SSD could be the issue. It was, and I haven't seen any BSODs since I upgraded.
Edited by klil - 4/20/12 at 9:28pm
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post #12 of 17
I know that Evga doesn't mind you putting on water blocks on them, and They have a pretty good warranty too I hear.
I'd feel like getting an evga block would be ideal, because they made it them selves, and if it doesn't work or anything, you could blame it on them easier than if you got a block from ek or something

Those monsoon fittings are fairly new, and are made by some person, and not a large company or anything, but they are pretty sturdy and not too expensive compared to other brands.
They are supposed to have angled adapters and more colors released, but the websites seem to only be selling about half of the colors

If you look at the charts for galvanic corrosion, you can see that there is a kind of decent different in the potential, but that chart doesn't take into count the metal's resistance to corrosion.
So iirc, nickel is pretty resistant to corrosion, and so is silver, so you should be fine with nickel, silver, copper, brass

But if you are as paranoid as I am, you could mix in some good quality coolant from automobiles or engines. Those usually have corrosion inhibitors, so the minute amount of corrosion that may happen would be blocked. The one that I used turned my water color into a sort of off yellow ish. Pretty hard to tell the difference when the light is on in the res though.
I think it could be described as a very diluted apple juice, or diluted beer/champagne

Quote:
Originally Posted by klil View Post

If you have an SSD make sure the firmware is upgraded. My Vertex 3 caused a BSOD every two hours. One month enduring this and was about to throw the computer outta the window, until I realized the SSD could be the issue. It was, and I haven't seen any BSODs since I upgraded.

Well That would be a nice solution if I only had an ssd frown.gif

I've asked some other people, and they deduced that I'm actually having some sort of driver issues, and my graphics card may be unstable
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post #13 of 17
I have an Elitebook, they're very nice. If you can, go for the W series. The come with Amd and Nvdidia GPUs, but the Nvidia ones are the quadro series. If you want to game on it, go for the AMD cards. For everything but gaming, the quadro will probably be better.

As far as 680's go, right now it's tough to find any that are even in stock. Unless that changes, get what you can get. There isn't much difference as far as reference models go, the main thing is the color of the shroud and things like warranties and whatnot. For non reference designs, there aren't a ton out yet, but EVGA and MSI are some of the better names. EVGA is also known for having good warranties, and they have some really nice looking backplates for the 680.
When will you be here? EVGA is set to launch 4 GB versions of the 680, which means the FTW model as well as the Classified model (I believe) the first week of May. If you want to overclock and put them under water, a beefed up non-reference design will help you out. But again, who knows what the availability will be like.
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post #14 of 17
Sounds good, please show us some of those pics once your stuff arrive and your rig put together.. smile.gif

As for the 680 blocks being out of stock everywhere, I went thought that with my 580s when they first came out, it'll take some time for the supply to catch up to the demand unfortunately, I ordered mine from Aqua Computer and it took a month for it to be in stock.

As for the OCZ bsod, Its believed that the problem is narrowed down to x58 and older chipsets, P67 and later chipsets appears to run them fine. My bios is old (v2.02), I don't flash it if it's working, you know that saying.. "if it's not broken, don't fix it"... and I have never seen a bsod on my P67 system thumb.gif

Hope I didn't jinx myself and start seeing them now...

@peopie: sorry I didn't read the whole thread as I am leaving my home at the moment, does your blank screen problem has anything to do with SLI and surround? I am having the same issue and it's a pretty well known issue on nvidia forums.. It appears to be a driver related issue, only happens during 5760*1080 gaming, everything else is fine..
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post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
@Peopie I don't think the EVGA is that nice looking and stuff.
@MME1122 EliteBooks rule. I'll go ATI because I'm not sure if nvidia quadros support 4 screens (through dock) and it's considerably cheaper.
If i have the choice I'll go EVGA (including backplate). The FTW and Classified are custom design, so I don't know if there are waterblocks. Plus, they'll be terribly expensive and hard to find. I'll go tomorrow (Sunday, arriving Monday morning) and leave somewhere between the 2nd and the 8th.
@frank anderson You can expect a build log (: My Vertex 3 came with the plagued 2.05 formware, it had a BSOD every two hours (on a P67). Fixed when I upgraded to 2.15 (i think these are the versions, i cant remember off the top of my head)

THESE QUESTIONS REMAIN:

GTX680 WATERBLOCK: EK or Koolance?
PUMP: One or two MCP655 variable speed?
LIQUID: Does the silver coil prevent corrosion?
RADIATOR: According to Martin's reviews, the Alphacool UT60 absolutely thrashes all other rads, but I really have not heard a single word about it (only one post in the forum). Is it really that good?
SLEEVING: Can anybody link me to a good guide, please? (which brand looks best, what diameter do I need for each cables, how heatshrinks work, molex pin removers)


Posted through the worst phone on the world, the Galaxy S2.
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post #16 of 17
I have koolance for the gpu
I have the Mcp355 with the xspc bay res. It is better than the 655
I have the ex360 rad
Gtx 680 on water with koolance with full load is 37. I am cooling the cpu as well in one loop
Wc guide is in my signature
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post #17 of 17
GTX680 WATERBLOCK: EK or Koolance? Koolance and EK are both good, but I'd lean toward either a Koolance block or a EK copper, non Nickel..

PUMP: One or two MCP655 variable speed? 2 if you have the space, and since its a new setup, the extra flow would never hurt and you'd have redundancy.

LIQUID: Does the silver coil prevent corrosion? NO .. only microbial.. and you don't need anti corrosive if you flush your stuff properly, don't use aluminium parts.

RADIATOR: According to Martin's reviews, the Alphacool UT60 absolutely thrashes all other rads, but I really have not heard a single word about it (only one post in the forum). Is it really that good?

hmm.. don't know about this one, Preference in actual order, I have HWL SR1, Thermochill TA120.3 (discontinued) and a Swiftech MCR320-QP (needed a thinner rad to fit above the motherboard so I bought this one), very happy with all of them.. These are all low PFI rads for low rpm fans though..

SLEEVING: Can anybody link me to a good guide, please? (which brand looks best, what diameter do I need for each cables, how heatshrinks work, molex pin removers)[/B]
Posted through the worst phone on the world, the Galaxy S2

none, sleeving is very hard to do, and harder to do it properly.. If you really want to dabble in this, check out NILS aka mdpc.com..
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