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post #21 of 57
your gunna need to SPEND ALOT, to run all games on ultra, even my system, cant run "all games" on ultra.

if you arnt getting a 2600k, just get a 2500k, not any of the inbetween cpus, the 2500k is a great overclocker

your psu selection type of horrible, get a antec or a corsair, they are more expensive, but WAY more reliable

how did u choose a psu but not a GPU, the GPU uses the most energy in a system

if u are planning on doing 3d gaming, you are gunna a powerfull gpu/cpu set up, proally SLI 580s, to tri sli 580s, then your gunna need a good cpu to prevent bottleneck, i cant even game 3d on my pc.

basically to game 3D, youll want a more expensive mobo that does x16x16x16 SLI/CF, a REALLY good cpu 2600k, and 3 GPUS powerfull enough with enough VRAM, 3 3GB GTX580s (thats almost 1800 right there, maybe even more) Gtx680s are 550 a pop, and only have 2gb of vram, (VRAM does NOT stack, adding three cards of 3 does not give u NINE, you are limited, but all cards NEED to be the SAME AMOUNT of VRAM), there are AMD alternatives, but they are just as pricey, and i dont know AMD well enough for GPUs to comment on them


more gpus, also mean more power, you are going to want a reliable power supply, often psus have a rated power 680 for example, but thats only when it PEAKS (turns on for example) and the psu might only be 600, or 500 watts, however, always getting bigger then what a psu calculator says is always good, u NEED some room for play.

if u are running 3 gpus, you will want atleast a 1200watt, for overclock stability, power stability and room for HDDs, and everything else
   
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post #22 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by d6bmg View Post

Good thinking. Buy remember, you can't use high heatsink inside NZXT Phantom.

Yea, I would advise to get the NZXT Switch 810. Amazing case for the cost, best case in that price range.
You can also go watercooling in the future if you decide to do so, Phantom isn't that great for WCing.

Better to think about the future.
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post #23 of 57
Thread Starter 
Hmm, I've been able to run all games I've tried on full graphics settings on my macbook pro (2 core 2.3GHz i5, 4GB RAM, Intel HD Graphics 3000). They weren't exactly amazing games, graphically, but then again, the system is extremely mediocre when it comes to gaming. I figured quadrupling the RAM, adding another GHz to the processor, and getting a graphics card that is significantly better than the 3000 would basically ensure I could play just about anything on ultra. Especially when my brother just bought a 2,000 dollar alienware laptop that runs skyrim on full graphics, I thought I could spend significantly cheaper building my own desktop and get the same results? Am I completely delusional? I was looking to spend no more than $2000, and attempting to stay in the $1500 range. So I guess my question is... what do you mean by "a lot"?

As far as the power supply calculations without picking a graphics card, I just entered in the best graphics card I am considering (AMD 7970), to be safe.
Edited by joe7987 - 4/21/12 at 11:40am
post #24 of 57
Welcome to OCN biggrin.gif

I will throw in my piece of advice that's sort of an unspoken no-no, unspoken simply because most people are smart enough not to do this in the first place. I was not how ever...

Never buy PC parts across a large period of time if you are doing a whole build. If you're just upgrading one part, go for it, but never for a whole build.

You won't be able to test the functionality of all your parts right away, and say you bought a critical, expensive part, early on, and didn't get the rest of the essentials for the build for about 2 months (like I did).. You won't be able to return the part for a refund and select a different part and you'll have to go through the manufacturer, which IMO, ends up being a big hassle, and will leave you with no better than a refurbished/repaired part, compared to getting a refund and re-ordering through the shop you bought it at for a brand new part, or selecting a different part.

My other piece of advice, set and obtain a budget to obtain the most amount of performance possible.

Doing this and letting OCN know your budget will allow us to throw a few different configurations your way, and you'll have an idea of what level of performance you'll be getting before you know it. A mid-high end PC can be built for only $550, if you know where to skimp and know your budget lol. For example, skimping on the case is usually allowable, just make sure you have room for the parts you select. Never skimp on the PSU or Mobo. IMO, the RAM and hard drive are skimpable as well. The focus of your cash with a low amount like that wants to be on the GPU, CPU, mobo, and PSU. A 6950 2GB or 7850 2GB GPU can be fit into a $550 build with an i3 2100 CPU, solid mobo that won't burst into flames, and a PSU to power all of it with dual channel 4GB 1333 MHz ram. If you know you're budget. If you don't know you're budget, you could end up spending a lot less than you have and walk away with a build much less powerful than what you could have had, or you could overshoot and walk away with an incomplete build.

Just my 2cents.gif hope it helps!

EDIT: So, just read your above post, nice budget, $1500 is perfect, I'll throw together what I would do with that cash in a cart on pcpartpicker.

Other advice: You absolutely do not need more than 8GB of RAM for gaming, 4GB is plenty enough in most cases, 8GB is an extremely safe amount, any more is way overkill and gets to expensive. And remember for CPU's, more GHz does not always make something faster. Architecture is a big part about the speed for CPU's.
Edited by rivaldog - 4/21/12 at 11:44am
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post #25 of 57
Thread Starter 
I still have a lot to learn, thank you. I was going with 16GB simply because RAM is fairly cheap, and I'd like to be able to go a bit without upgrading. The RAM I was going to get was going to be a set of 4 4GB sticks. Is it plausible for me to just buy 2 of them now and then 2 more later, when I need more RAM? If so, I definitely don't mind sticking to 8GB now. My goal is to not have to upgrade this machine for a while. I'm a console gamer, trying out the PC thing, and I think I'll get fed up if I have to be constantly upgrading. I went with 16GB so I wouldn't have to touch the RAM for 2-3 years... but If I could buy 2 4GB sticks now, and 2 more later, I wouldn't mind saving some money.
post #26 of 57
With 2x4GB of 1600 MHz ram right now, you shouldn't have to touch that til minimum 2015, they say DDR4 RAM won't even be around until 2014, so 1600Mhz and 8GB should last a while, ESPECIALLY going with a high end card like the 7970 that has 3GB of its own RAM.

And trust me, every one has more to learn about PC's tongue.gif lol
Also, with a 7970 and 2500k, you shouldn't have to upgrade either of those parts for a solid 4-5 years at least. With a $1500 budget you'll be set for 3-5 years at the bare minimum man.

Do you have an operating system already, or will that need to be included in the cost?
And what about a hard drive?
Monitor? Mouse? Keyboard?

So far, with an OS and hard drive, no monitor, no mouse, keyboard, for $1450, this is what I've come up with:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/78Bl
Edited by rivaldog - 4/21/12 at 12:09pm
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Stealth Strike
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The Dog
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD FX-6300 Asus M5A97 Sapphire Tri-X R9 290 4GB G.Skill Ripjaws X 8GB DDR3 1600 MHz 
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Samsung 840 Pro SSD Samsung Spinpoint F3 Seagate Barracuda Generic Drive 
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Corsair A70 CPU Cooler Windows 7 Ultimate 3x Asus VS247H-P Saitek Cyborg V.7 MW2 Edition 
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Samsung 840 Pro SSD Samsung Spinpoint F3 Seagate Barracuda Corsair A70 
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post #27 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by rivaldog View Post

With 2x4GB of 1600 MHz ram right now, you shouldn't have to touch that til minimum 2015, they say DDR4 RAM won't even be around until 2014, so 1600Mhz and 8GB should last a while, ESPECIALLY going with a high end card like the 7970 that has 3GB of its own RAM.
And trust me, every one has more to learn about PC's tongue.gif lol
Also, with a 7970 and 2500k, you shouldn't have to upgrade either of those parts for a solid 4-5 years at least. With a $1500 budget you'll be set for 3-5 years at the bare minimum man.
Do you have an operating system already, or will that need to be included in the cost?
And what about a hard drive?
Monitor? Mouse? Keyboard?
So far, with an OS and hard drive, no monitor, no mouse, keyboard, for $1450, this is what I've come up with:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/78Bl

Wow that is a really nice build!
Only thing I'd change is the case to a NZXT Switch 810 since the price is close if I recall correctly, incase you want to WC later.
I'd up the PSU to a 750 for futureproof also.
Change mobo to ASRock Gen 3 Extreme 3

Need a cooler, I'd suggest either a 212+ or Silver Arrow/D14
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post #28 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7987 View Post

My monitor will be my TV - Vizio 42", 1080p, 120 Hz refresh, 3D TV. I'm very excited about this part biggrin.gif

That means you have to be at 120fps minimum. We're talking SLI 680's atleast for many games. Read Palladin's response to someone asking about playing PC games in 3D.


You should make a thread in the Intel General section and continue this more.
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post #29 of 57
Rival Dog has some very good input and advice, and You should listen to him

I like the NZXT Switch 810, it has a very large potential for watercooling, and you could easily fit everything you need neatly inside that case

If you still want to get an ssd, you could get a cache drive, or you could get a hybrid hard drive

Those two work similarly, except the hybrid hard drive has the ssd and hdd in one piece. Seagate makes a pretty good hybrid drive I've heard

Or if you want to get two different pieces, you could get any hard drive of your choice and get either an ssd designed to be a cache drive, or use any ssd as a cache drive. The benefit of buying an ssd meant for cache drives is that it comes with the soft ware to do the caching, while using any other drive will need at least a z68 chipset to do it, and you'd have to do a bunch of configurations which im not sure of and could become pretty hectic.
Usually if you wanted to get a cache drive, they have a low storage space, like about 30-60 gb. But the hybrid drives only have 4-8gb of ssd cach storage capabilities.

If you're looking for SSDs, look for the random 4k IOPS. The ones with a higher number will produce a more noticeable difference in performance.

I think the best one as of now would be a Crucial Adrenaline, which goes for about $100

But if you wanted to least head ache, just stick to a hybrid drive


Water cooling is expensive too. it usually costs about 500 or so
If you were wondering that is...

and I think you are right about the resolution and stuff.
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post #30 of 57
Thread Starter 
Rivaldog, thank you so much for taking the time to put that build together. I want to take a look at it, more in depth, before I ask questions about it. I'm sure I will have some, though smile.gif

In regards to needing a better graphics card for 3D gaming. I BELIEVE you are mistaken, but only because I did not mention that my TV is passive 3D, not active. In active 3D, two separate images are displayed in very rapid succession to trick the eye into believing it's seeing a 3D image. This can be stressful on the graphics card as more is rendered in a short period of time. This is not the case with passive 3D, which is displayed using 2 different polarizations, which really doesn't put any more strain on the graphics card than a 2D display. So I think I'm good there. I just double checked to be sure. This site also seems to confirm my statement: http://www.howtogeek.com/99662/guide-to-3d-monitors-tvs/

But once again, it was my mistake. I didn't mention my TV is passive.
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