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EASY/CHEAP LED Case Lighting..... - Page 16

post #151 of 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey77 View Post

I thought I would repost this in case you missed it.

A small tutorial on how exactly I soldered them:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey77 View Post

This is where you want to cut BETWEEN:


Flip it over and just cut through the paper backing ONLY with a razor/exacto blade, and remove to expose the adhesive backing:


Now being very careful, with a light touch, score the adhesive and gently scrape it forward with your blade. You don't want to cut all the way through the copper ribbon:

Now take a push pin, and push it through the circles completely:

Two nice round holes to accept your wire:

You can leave the leads long, you will trim them after they are soldered:

I recommend everyone make their own pair of "helping hands". It is just some wire/rod with some gator clips soldered on the ends. I pinch them with a pair of vice grips, then pinch the vice grips in a vice:

This is where most people fail when soldering. You must "Tin" your iron's tip with a little bit of solder. It helps transfer the heat to the pieces you want soldered:

Add solder to where the arrow is pointing. Try to put the pool of solder that you tinned your iron with right underneath the hole/wire. The new solder should suck right down towards the heat, and make a nice pretty soldered joint for ya. Let it cool for a few seconds, then trim the long lead on the bottom as close as you can, then slip over your heatshrink, heat, then move to your next one:

This is the easiest/prettiest method that I have learned the hard way.
Edit: I soldered simple 3 pin fan leads to the ends of mine, and am using a typical fan controller to adjust/turn off. I think this is the easiest way, with the least amount of clutter and wires.

Thanx a lot man! Ive allready read the tutorial (its really good) and will be using it... unfortunately i have the flu so ill postpone this project for a few days sicksmiley.png
post #152 of 598
Just make sure what you get is Rosin or Flux Core 60/40 solder. Do not use ACID CORE solder (for plumbing) on electronics. I have both in my toolbox and I have the acid core stuff very clearly marked so I can't forget and grab the wrong thing.
post #153 of 598
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLHarrell View Post

Just make sure what you get is Rosin or Flux Core 60/40 solder. Do not use ACID CORE solder (for plumbing) on electronics. I have both in my toolbox and I have the acid core stuff very clearly marked so I can't forget and grab the wrong thing.

This.
I use rosin core 60/40.
 
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post #154 of 598
Hey everyone this is HitLights here, glad to see that most of you like our light strips. If you like these single color LEDs you should check our some of our color changing LEDs here: http://www.hitlights.com/led-strip-light/color-changing-led-strip-light.html . I would also like to ask the people on this forum a question for a product idea. What would you think of a small LED Strip Light that you can plug into a USB port? Ive attached a picture of a prototype. The idea would be to make it easier for people less technically proficient people to be able to customize their computer as well.


Thanks From All of us at HitLights and Keep up the Cool Projects!
post #155 of 598
This post number 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by All3n View Post

Flux core 60/40 lead-tin is the easiest to work with. (Electronic solder.)
Avoid lead free, it's difficult to work with.
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post #156 of 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by HitLights View Post

Hey everyone this is HitLights here, glad to see that most of you like our light strips. If you like these single color LEDs you should check our some of our color changing LEDs here: http://www.hitlights.com/led-strip-light/color-changing-led-strip-light.html . I would also like to ask the people on this forum a question for a product idea. What would you think of a small LED Strip Light that you can plug into a USB port? Ive attached a picture of a prototype. The idea would be to make it easier for people less technically proficient people to be able to customize their computer as well.

Thanks From All of us at HitLights and Keep up the Cool Projects!

The concern is a lack of USB ports inside the typical case. IF you can ad ports inside, then you already have the skill set to deal with 12v.

12v LED strips are fine and a great voltage to use with other projects.
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post #157 of 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by HitLights View Post

Hey everyone this is HitLights here, glad to see that most of you like our light strips. If you like these single color LEDs you should check our some of our color changing LEDs here: http://www.hitlights.com/led-strip-light/color-changing-led-strip-light.html . I would also like to ask the people on this forum a question for a product idea. What would you think of a small LED Strip Light that you can plug into a USB port? Ive attached a picture of a prototype. The idea would be to make it easier for people less technically proficient people to be able to customize their computer as well.


Thanks From All of us at HitLights and Keep up the Cool Projects!

This would be a great idea for behind monitors and underneath keyboards. You would have to figure out a length of usb cable though.

I'm thinking maybe sell it with 6 inches of cabling and in both female and male usb port options. This way you can have an easy solution for those needing a short length and for those needing a long cable they can buy the female port and purchase a separate usb cable to fit their length needs.

Better yet, sell the usb adapter in both female and male versions for those of us who want to solder our own!
 
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post #158 of 598
Thread Starter 
The main drawback I see with USB is not getting 12 volts to the led's. You get a max of 4v with USB 3.0 and 4.4v with 2.0 (iirc).
 
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post #159 of 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey77 View Post

The main drawback I see with USB is not getting 12 volts to the led's. You get a max of 4v with USB 3.0 and 4.4v with 2.0 (iirc).

Asus AI Charger will boost USB ports from 7-12V so Asus owners have that option. It's mainly used for iPad charging or phones like mine that can enable fast charging, pretty nice to have.
 
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post #160 of 598
I tried to look up the Asus AI Charger , but google is not working for me at the moment, but I must say that I doubt this "AP Charger" raises the voltage.

If it's similar to the ASRock deal, it allows the USB port to pass more current (ma) allowing you to charge or power larger devices, regardless it is still USB @ 5.0 volts.
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