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Did I fry my mobo/psu?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Let me preface this by saying I'm a complete liquid cooling newb.

Hooked up my first loop which consisted of just one gpu to keep things simple. Ran with that for a while and noticed the fluid level in my reservoir was getting lower over time. I opened the case to inspect for leaks and found a small puddle on top of my psu. I noticed the leak was from my EK waterblock and shut the system off. Disconnected all cables from back and tilted the case to its side to start clean up. When I did this, a couple small drops of my coolant landed on the mobo which I didn't notice.

Fixed the leak and plugged it all back in and tried to fire it up. Press power and I get nothing at all. However I have a CMOS light in the back that is illuminated and an external USB that powers on when connected to the mobo even with power off.

What the hell? I can't figure this out! I connected a working psu from another computer direct to my mobo and same problem.

As a note my coolant is the premixed EK ekoolant stuff.

Any help troubleshooting this would be appreciated.
post #2 of 6
I'm guessing that you didn't leak test for 24 hours before installing? At any rate, you should disassemble everything, fully dry everything, clean any area that you think coolant could have leaked on to with pure rubbing alcohol. Connect only the basic components back to the system and start testing.

Of course, make sure to leak test everything 24 hours minimum before running it in a live system thumb.gif
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Intel i7 2860QM AMD Radeon HD 6770M Corsair Vengence 1600MHz Samsung 840 Pro 256GB 
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Intel i7 2860QM AMD Radeon HD 6770M Corsair Vengence 1600MHz Samsung 840 Pro 256GB 
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post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Ok I allowed 24 hours and still no luck. I tried removing the psu altogether and jump starting it. The psu did not start. Is it possible the psu (a corsair ax1200) fried but still would provide power to the mobo? Thus causing the clear CMOS light to come on and external drives to power up? But otherwise be useless?
post #4 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeThreeBack View Post

Ok I allowed 24 hours and still no luck. I tried removing the psu altogether and jump starting it. The psu did not start. Is it possible the psu (a corsair ax1200) fried but still would provide power to the mobo? Thus causing the clear CMOS light to come on and external drives to power up? But otherwise be useless?

I would say that it's far more likely that the water may have crept along the waterblock and damaged something else there. If drives are powering up and the PSU isn't shutting down I would say it's still working. Ideally, you would need to swap all the parts for other parts, or at least try the GPU in another PC to test that, it may have got some water on it.
My System
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790K 4.8GHz @ 1.306v (Actual) ASUS Maximus VII Gene Gigabyte GTX 780 Galaxy GTX 780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
16GB G.Skill Ares (4x4GB @ 1866MHz OC'd to 2133) Samsung 840 Evo 500GB WD Black 2.5" 750GB EK Supremacy EVO Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacool NeXXos UT60 240mm Radiator EK XE 360 Radiator x 2 EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal /w Backplate and Reinfor... 8 x EK Vardar F4 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
EK MOSFET ASUS M7G Acetal Nickel Windows 8 x64 Pro Dell U2711 (2560*1440) Dell P2715q 
KeyboardPowerCase
Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake Edition Corsair AX1200 Thermaltake Cube X2 
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My System
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790K 4.8GHz @ 1.306v (Actual) ASUS Maximus VII Gene Gigabyte GTX 780 Galaxy GTX 780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
16GB G.Skill Ares (4x4GB @ 1866MHz OC'd to 2133) Samsung 840 Evo 500GB WD Black 2.5" 750GB EK Supremacy EVO Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacool NeXXos UT60 240mm Radiator EK XE 360 Radiator x 2 EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal /w Backplate and Reinfor... 8 x EK Vardar F4 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
EK MOSFET ASUS M7G Acetal Nickel Windows 8 x64 Pro Dell U2711 (2560*1440) Dell P2715q 
KeyboardPowerCase
Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake Edition Corsair AX1200 Thermaltake Cube X2 
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post #5 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeThreeBack View Post

Let me preface this by saying I'm a complete liquid cooling newb.

Hooked up my first loop which consisted of just one gpu to keep things simple. Ran with that for a while and noticed the fluid level in my reservoir was getting lower over time. I opened the case to inspect for leaks and found a small puddle on top of my psu. I noticed the leak was from my EK waterblock and shut the system off. Disconnected all cables from back and tilted the case to its side to start clean up. When I did this, a couple small drops of my coolant landed on the mobo which I didn't notice.

Fixed the leak and plugged it all back in and tried to fire it up. Press power and I get nothing at all. However I have a CMOS light in the back that is illuminated and an external USB that powers on when connected to the mobo even with power off.

What the hell?
*HAHAHA* LAUGHING SO HARD! I don't meant to RUDE... Wow, unbelievable, WC experts didn't tell you "make sure all barbs tight from A to Z" before put tubing on barbs. No matter what all WC parts are new or used. ahh shame.




Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeThreeBack View Post

I can't figure this out! I connected a working psu from another computer direct to my mobo and same problem.

As a note my coolant is the premixed EK ekoolant stuff.

Any help troubleshooting this would be appreciated.
Did you open PSU and see if coolants still wet on it, then clean it out. Good Luck..

Quote:
Originally Posted by appleg33k85 View Post

I'm guessing that you didn't leak test for 24 hours before installing? At any rate, you should disassemble everything, fully dry everything, clean any area that you think coolant could have leaked on to with pure rubbing alcohol. Connect only the basic components back to the system and start testing.

Of course, make sure to leak test everything 24 hours minimum before running it in a live system thumb.gif
what? leak test for 24 hours is pointless!

My WC rig just plug and play after WC bleed done for 2 hrs or less. Don't need a leaking test in my lifetime.

You haven't experienced radiator work in car. I bet you send your car to auto shop to fix radiator/coolant. did auto mechanic tell you, drive for 24 hours to see if leaking after pick your car from auto shop,? C'mon...




OP, keep in mind: Tight all barbs & clamp ( don't over-tighten) before put everything in rig. thumb.gif
Edited by GAMERIG - 4/28/12 at 11:11am
SCYTHE COOLER
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-6200BE 3.8Ghz MSI 970A-G46 SLI | GTS 250 1GB 16GB DDR3 RAM 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
3TB | 2TB | HW NB-500GB  ASHURA-HSF | 2X14CM | PnP Win8 64bit |  
MonitorPowerCase
LG 60LN5600 | 1080p Corsair 1000w HAF X 
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SCYTHE COOLER
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-6200BE 3.8Ghz MSI 970A-G46 SLI | GTS 250 1GB 16GB DDR3 RAM 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
3TB | 2TB | HW NB-500GB  ASHURA-HSF | 2X14CM | PnP Win8 64bit |  
MonitorPowerCase
LG 60LN5600 | 1080p Corsair 1000w HAF X 
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post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAMERIG View Post

*HAHAHA* LAUGHING SO HARD! I don't meant to RUDE... Wow, unbelievable, WC experts didn't tell you "make sure all barbs tight from A to Z" before put tubing on barbs. No matter what all WC parts are new or used. ahh shame.
Did you open PSU and see if coolants still wet on it, then clean it out. Good Luck..
what? leak test for 24 hours is pointless!
My WC rig just plug and play after WC bleed done for 2 hrs or less. Don't need a leaking test in my lifetime.
You haven't experienced radiator work in car. I bet you send your car to auto shop to fix radiator/coolant. did auto mechanic tell you, drive for 24 hours to see if leaking after pick your car from auto shop,? C'mon...
OP, keep in mind: Tight all barbs & clamp ( don't over-tighten) before put everything in rig. thumb.gif

A decent leak test in a PC is essential in my books! It is nothing like a car, in a car all the barbs are installed directly to the radiator, engine block, water pump etc and are attached with high tension clamps. In the PC the barbs are all screwed on by hand and water proofed with O-rings. There are also a lot of O-Rings in blocks in irregular shapes and it can be very hard to tell if they're installed properly.

In a car a small drip would go almost completely unnoticed and do no damage whatsoever, in a PC a small drip is enough to kill hundreds or thousands of dollars of equipment. Yes, it is true that you will almost never find a leak if it's done right. But I have in the past found a leak that was coming out of my CPU block because of a badly seated O-ring. If I hadn't leak tested it would have formed a small puddle on my MB and killed something. Because I tested I found it, pulled the block apart and fixed it.

Also, OP, unless you know exactly what you are doing I would recommend that you DO NOT open the PSU. The capacitors in there can store mains-voltages for days after last use. Unless you know what you are doing you are best off leaving it well enough alone.
My System
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790K 4.8GHz @ 1.306v (Actual) ASUS Maximus VII Gene Gigabyte GTX 780 Galaxy GTX 780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
16GB G.Skill Ares (4x4GB @ 1866MHz OC'd to 2133) Samsung 840 Evo 500GB WD Black 2.5" 750GB EK Supremacy EVO Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacool NeXXos UT60 240mm Radiator EK XE 360 Radiator x 2 EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal /w Backplate and Reinfor... 8 x EK Vardar F4 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
EK MOSFET ASUS M7G Acetal Nickel Windows 8 x64 Pro Dell U2711 (2560*1440) Dell P2715q 
KeyboardPowerCase
Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake Edition Corsair AX1200 Thermaltake Cube X2 
  hide details  
Reply
My System
(21 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790K 4.8GHz @ 1.306v (Actual) ASUS Maximus VII Gene Gigabyte GTX 780 Galaxy GTX 780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
16GB G.Skill Ares (4x4GB @ 1866MHz OC'd to 2133) Samsung 840 Evo 500GB WD Black 2.5" 750GB EK Supremacy EVO Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacool NeXXos UT60 240mm Radiator EK XE 360 Radiator x 2 EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal /w Backplate and Reinfor... 8 x EK Vardar F4 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
EK MOSFET ASUS M7G Acetal Nickel Windows 8 x64 Pro Dell U2711 (2560*1440) Dell P2715q 
KeyboardPowerCase
Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake Edition Corsair AX1200 Thermaltake Cube X2 
  hide details  
Reply
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