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Water component optimal order? Which ways can I rout them?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Just got all of my stuff have to wait for a day off of work not to put it all together. I ordered a Mo-ra3 using only 9x180 MCP655 and a swiftech Apogee HD reservoir is a large bitspower 400ml tube type. Here is a detailed list if you need more info. http://www.overclock.net/t/1247813/new-water-cooling-on-order/0_100#post_17062680

anyways I wanted to mount as much stuff on the rad as possible to keep more items outside when winter gets here as I am planning on being able to move it outside. But now I'm not sure I will keep the pump on the side of the rad maybe just the res so its not messy. Some of my questions are: is the only reason for having the res just before the pump so that it makes priming the system easier/don't burn out pump? Would it hurt anything if I pumped into the rad first instead of through the water block first? Also I was looking at the rad last night and am not wondering how the heck im going to rout all the wires for the nine fans since there is zero clearance around the sides of them? anyone have experience with 9 fan setup?
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post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 
I mean how do i get the wires clean for 9 fan setup... have to check back here when I get home from work.
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post #3 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little_Timmy View Post

Some of my questions are: is the only reason for having the res just before the pump so that it makes priming the system easier/don't burn out pump?
I would say that alone is more than enough reason, and rephrase it to "makes priming the system A LOT easier".
Quote:
Would it hurt anything if I pumped into the rad first instead of through the water block first?
No. It should in fact give you slightly better performance when you go rad > block as compared to block > rad. Please note that I said slightly--It's a common trope that "loop order doesn't matter" but that's actually shorthand for "loop order only makes a very small difference in most cases".
Quote:
Also I was looking at the rad last night and am not wondering how the heck im going to rout all the wires for the nine fans since there is zero clearance around the sides of them? anyone have experience with 9 fan setup?
There should be enough space between the fans to thread the wires through. Have you tried it yet? All you need is one or two mm or even if the fans are absolutely flush against each other there should be enough flex in the housing if you ran the wires flat.
Quote:
anyways I wanted to mount as much stuff on the rad as possible to keep more items outside when winter gets here as I am planning on being able to move it outside. But now I'm not sure I will keep the pump on the side of the rad maybe just the res so its not messy.
In your other thread you mentioned it gets down to -40 sometimes, have you tested that kind of setup with watercooling before? I'd be worried about the water freezing when the loop isn't in use. Or even possibly when it is!
Edited by threephi - 4/27/12 at 12:07pm
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post #4 of 10
If you don't have the reservoir directly before the pump, there's basically no reason to have a reservoir at all. It needs to be the last thing in your loop before going back to the pump or you'll lose pressure going to anything after it. As for optimal routing of everything else, there's really no practical difference, you can route it however works best for your setup.
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks and thanks to both of you... yes I tried routing it but the wires are sleeved maybe I will have to take the sleeves off the fan wires to make them fit. And I should have said -40f so more like -15 to -20c maybe a little lower on a cold night. I will use some type of automotive antifreeze coolant or something like feser one which freezes at -64 or something like that cant remember exactly but I emailed them and asked. For the summer I am going to start out with Distilled water and PT Nuke.
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post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little_Timmy View Post

Thanks and thanks to both of you... yes I tried routing it but the wires are sleeved maybe I will have to take the sleeves off the fan wires to make them fit. And I should have said -40f so more like -15 to -20c maybe a little lower on a cold night. I will use some type of automotive antifreeze coolant or something like feser one which freezes at -64 or something like that cant remember exactly but I emailed them and asked. For the summer I am going to start out with Distilled water and PT Nuke.

-40°F = -40°C so I figured I didn't have to ask which it was wink.gif

Whichever way you go with the coolant, make sure you get some data on viscosity at low temps because that could impact your pump considerably. You will probably have to address condensation too, especially for when you first turn the machine on. Also not sure how the usual made-for-WC vinyl tubing will react to having sub-zero coolant flowing through it, you will probably need something hardier.
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post #7 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Little_Timmy View Post

Thanks and thanks to both of you... yes I tried routing it but the wires are sleeved maybe I will have to take the sleeves off the fan wires to make them fit. And I should have said -40f so more like -15 to -20c maybe a little lower on a cold night. I will use some type of automotive antifreeze coolant or something like feser one which freezes at -64 or something like that cant remember exactly but I emailed them and asked. For the summer I am going to start out with Distilled water and PT Nuke.

-40°F = -40°C so I figured I didn't have to ask which it was wink.gif

Whichever way you go with the coolant, make sure you get some data on viscosity at low temps because that could impact your pump considerably. You will probably have to address condensation too, especially for when you first turn the machine on. Also not sure how the usual made-for-WC vinyl tubing will react to having sub-zero coolant flowing through it, you will probably need something hardier.

most tubing is either going to flake or start to develop a hard surface but be mushy at the same time, because of the constant flux between hot and cold especially around the blocks.
when looking at subzero cooling its also worth considering looking into just using copper plumbing from the rad to out to the case, and of course insulating a lot of your internals inside the pc itself, otherwise say hello to condensation and goodbye parts.
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. biggums View Post

most tubing is either going to flake or start to develop a hard surface but be mushy at the same time, because of the constant flux between hot and cold especially around the blocks.
when looking at subzero cooling its also worth considering looking into just using copper plumbing from the rad to out to the case, and of course insulating a lot of your internals inside the pc itself, otherwise say hello to condensation and goodbye parts.

thanks for the heads up!
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post #9 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. biggums View Post

most tubing is either going to flake or start to develop a hard surface but be mushy at the same time, because of the constant flux between hot and cold especially around the blocks.
when looking at subzero cooling its also worth considering looking into just using copper plumbing from the rad to out to the case, and of course insulating a lot of your internals inside the pc itself, otherwise say hello to condensation and goodbye parts.

This would be a good time to point out Norprene tubing, which works well at a wide range of temperatures and is more insulating than traditional tubing. You'll definitely want to insulate still though, condensation would be a very bad thing.
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post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Well finally got the basics done. Never knew making a 9 wire adapter and a fan header/Molex extension could be so time consuming.
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