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Im going to start purchasing the parts for this rig in a couple of weeks, can someone look this over?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
As the title says, I'm going to start purchasing things for my new build in the upcoming weeks, and I just wanted to see if anyone here at OCN could see any issues with this? I'm going to be doing a lot of gaming on this rig, as well as some photoshop work and light video editing. Does anyone have any recommendations for this?

Thanks in advance for your feedback! smile.gif


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($289.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($84.99 @ CompUSA)
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth X79 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (8 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($124.99 @ Adorama)
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($507.55 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 600T White Graphite ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($25.97 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor ($186.13 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($138.99 @ B&H)
Total: $2274.55
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-04-28 00:43 EDT-0400)
Edited by crazedsilence - 4/28/12 at 2:20am
post #2 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazedsilence View Post

As the title says, I'm going to start purchasing things for my new build in the upcoming weeks, and I just wanted to see if anyone here at OCN could see any issues with this? I'm going to be doing a lot of gaming on this rig, as well as some photoshop work and light video editing. Does anyone have any recommendations for this?
Thanks in advance for your feedback! smile.gif
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($289.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($84.99 @ CompUSA)
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth X79 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (8 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($124.99 @ Adorama)
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($507.55 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 600T White Graphite ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($25.97 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS248H-P 24.0" Monitor ($186.13 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($138.99 @ B&H)
Total: $2274.55
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-04-28 00:43 EDT-0400)

You've obviously seen done your due diligence with your system and it looks awesome, so kudos. thumb.gif


My issues would be;

IF you feel like you want to go 2011 over 1155 that says a few things to me, you want performance over "bang for buck", you need quad channel memory, you want full PCI-E lanes, and you don't mind paying for said things. Everything that follows will be based on my thoughts on your needs.


With SSD prices falling like bricks I would advise making sure that is one of the last pieces you buy. Also I would say that if you could swing it, I would advise going with a nice 5 year warrany SSD like the Intel 520 or, if you don't trust SF, a Vertex 4. I think with performance being close and prices getting closer together, 5 year warranties should be big factors in people's choices for SSD's since it's a small premium for longer security. I wouldn't mind my 520 breaking down in 4 years and have Intel send me a SATA IV Intel 920 Peachville 240GB SSD (lol Peachville) tongue.gif you get my point.

The ram also hamstrings you quite a bit since you will be maxing out your ram slots, I would advise against this as you leave no room for upgrades. I think if you're already spending $200 on ram might as well pay the extra 60 bucks and get something like this;

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820144561

That way you leave the extra slots to maybe go 64gigs in a couple of years. If you don't think you'll need the extra 32 then I wouldn't think you need the upgrade path that is 2011 and maybe you wouldn't need 32 now and would be fine with 16.


I love the 680 choice as it's a complete beast that I would get if I could find it for $400 or less (maybe later in the year), unfortunately this choice brings into question your PSU choice. You made a beast of a system that gives you HUGE upgrade-ability and headroom but chose a somewhat small PSU to help you with said upgrade-ability. Again If I was already in the range your already in I would probably choose something like this;

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151110

Monster Seasonic that while it doesn't have the 7 year (only 5 I believe) is a much stronger PSU that is full modular like your current choice.

OR

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703028

PC power and cooling, another beastly PSU that does boast the 7 year warrany BUT it is not modular nor Gold rated (only Silver) still a fine choice.


Now, your monitor............ Sooooo spending $290 on CPU, $320 on mobo, $510 on GPU, $200 on ram but $190 on your Monitor that will display this glorious system? (and it is glorious) I think I would double that budget and basically take a shot and get one of these;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/0_100

A lot of our members have been raving about them and I I could sell both my 24" and 25" for 300ish I would jump at the chance to buy one. I think any 1080p monitor would be a bad choice and would say that if you really want to go 680 I would advise a nice 1440 or 1600 monitor. IF you choose either of those you can also make sure to get one of the whole pixel guarantee sets for ususally 30 bucks more but guarantees no dead or stuck pixels. Mostly everyone has had great experiences.



I'll be here all night/morning since I work grave and today is a day off so reply with any questions or thoughts and I'll keep an eye on the thread. All those added/changed items will increase total cost but it would be VERY worth it in the long run, you can sli another 680 later, add more ram, will have TONS of real estate room on your monitor, and your SDD should last for a while, if not you would have a very long coverage for warranty upgrades errr replacements. biggrin.gif
Edited by Junkboy - 4/28/12 at 1:34am
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Ada
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post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Wow, thanks for the long and thought out reply! And you are correct, I'm definitely going for performance in lieu of bang for buck.

I've actually reconsidered a few things, and am thinking about switching my motherboard to the Rampage IV Formula, and either downgrading the RAM to 16GB, or using 32GB with 4 sticks (because in all honesty, I really doubt I could ever fill up 64GB of RAM, unless I just wanted a huge RAMdisk). Any thoughts on this? The one possible deal-breaker for this motherboard is that it will eliminate the possibility to upgrade to 64GB if I wanted, as it only has 4 slots and supports a maximum of 32GB.

Power supply: I am looking to SLI down the road, and after asking several different people, the general consensus was that a good 750W-850W power supply would be able to run a build with 2 680's in it. Do you think it would be sufficient, or should I upgrade to a 1000W+ PSU? As far as brand choice goes, I went with Corsair because they came highly recommended by a good friend of mine (who has way more experience at this than I), but I have heard that Seasonic delivers solid PSUs, I will have to look deeper in to this and read many more reviews.

Monitor: Not a set in stone choice yet, I'm still looking at all my options, honestly I just slapped that monitor on the builder to fill in the price a little bit. I can't get too large a sized monitor just yet though, 24" is my max at the moment, solely because of my desk. I'm still debating whether I should go with a 60hz or 120hz monitor however, have you had any personal experience with 120hz monitors?
post #4 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazedsilence View Post

Wow, thanks for the long and thought out reply! And you are correct, I'm definitely going for performance in lieu of bang for buck.
I've actually reconsidered a few things, and am thinking about switching my motherboard to the Rampage IV Formula, and either downgrading the RAM to 16GB, or using 32GB with 4 sticks (because in all honesty, I really doubt I could ever fill up 64GB of RAM, unless I just wanted a huge RAMdisk). Any thoughts on this? The one possible deal-breaker for this motherboard is that it will eliminate the possibility to upgrade to 64GB if I wanted, as it only has 4 slots and supports a maximum of 32GB.
Power supply: I am looking to SLI down the road, and after asking several different people, the general consensus was that a good 750W-850W power supply would be able to run a build with 2 680's in it. Do you think it would be sufficient, or should I upgrade to a 1000W+ PSU? As far as brand choice goes, I went with Corsair because they came highly recommended by a good friend of mine (who has way more experience at this than I), but I have heard that Seasonic delivers solid PSUs, I will have to look deeper in to this and read many more reviews.
Monitor: Not a set in stone choice yet, I'm still looking at all my options, honestly I just slapped that monitor on the builder to fill in the price a little bit. I can't get too large a sized monitor just yet though, 24" is my max at the moment, solely because of my desk. I'm still debating whether I should go with a 60hz or 120hz monitor however, have you had any personal experience with 120hz monitors?

Sorry I was watching a long stream, I would say if you're going lga2011 you have to go 4 sticks to make use of quad channel, so I would suggest going 32GB off the bat and never upgrading. Mobo decision is not wise, you lose your ram slots which you might need, for more PCI-E lanes which you wouldn't need unless you plan for tripe/quad sli, especially when you consider you will be spending more on it. I would stick to the Sabertooth, just because you can upgrade doesn't mean you have to, but ram slots are like one of those things, you'd rather have them and not need them than need them and not have them. Plus it's cheaper thumb.gif


The psu things could turn into a long long explanation but to make a long story short some of Corsairs best PSU's are actually rebranded Seasonic's. I would say for sli 680's with some nice OC and a great OC on that chip I wouldn't go under a great 850, like with the ram slots though better to have and not need. IF you pick a great case (which you have) cable management is a breeze so you don't have to spend the extra $50-$100 to go modular if you don't want to. I love working with modular PSU's but with some of the newer cases with tons of back room modular isn't as needed as it used to be. (never really needed but you get my point)


Again the monitor thing will be something I say you shouldn't compromise, if you're ok with a 24" 1080p then I would say a 680 isn't needed nor will SLI EVER be needed. Unless you play a handful of games like The Witcher 2 with true max settings @1080p even a two old generation card like I have (5870) can run most games perfectly fine.


As far as the 60hz vs 120hz I've seen it and love it absolutely love it, it was a nice 2600k system with sli 580's and I was in love, funny thing about it was he had a non Gaming 27" IPS Dell sitting next to it. And you know what? that new monitor that was as smooth as butter looked like garbage in comparison once once I saw BF3 at Max rez on the same system. Unless you game competitively or are very very very serious about your gaming, 120hz isn't needed it's great to have but isn't needed. Since most 120hz run around $350ish at that point I'm getting me a Korean IPS monitor for $430 with immaculate colors and vibrancy that will make my games look awe-inspiring and that has a chance to hit 75-100hz.
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post #5 of 12
I want to ask you why you need lga 2011? I see a lot of people spend tons of cash on some of their rigs for editing and rendering (or folding) and choose lga 2011 but then turn around and not buy a six core and settle on a quad. I ask this because if you don't want bang for buck and you're spending 2k+ why wouldn't you just go all in and just get the a 3930k a monster of a cpu that is a complete behemoth. Otherwise you might be better served going Ivy/Sandy and saving 100 bucks on a mobo 100 bucks on ram (as 16 gigs in two sticks is MUCH cheaper), and getting a 2600l/2700k/3770k OC'ing that sucker to 4.0-4-8 easily (depending on if you go SB/Ivy).

Also if desk space is an issue how about one of these?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5400&seq=1&format=2

The also have double,

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5401&seq=1&format=2

and three way adjustable mounts

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2


Also depending on where you live, and if you don't live near a micro center, I would suggest getting as many parts as possible from amazon.com. Amazon doesn't charge tax for us here in CA and when spending 2k+ that will be about a 10% savings depending on state. I assume you live in the states. (which I shouldn't since you're either up very early or very if you do live in the states) tongue.gif
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post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
I'm still weighing options for the motherboard/RAM choices, but right now I'm leaning towards sticking with the Sabertooth board. Still have at least another 6 weeks before I start buying parts thumb.gif

You make a persuading case for an IPS monitor, are there any huge differences between a Dell IPS monitor and a Korean IPS?

As to your comment on the psu's, that's an interesting bit of information, do you have a source where I could read up on that Seasonic/ Corsair business? And I'll step up to at least 850W, I'm 99% sure I won't run triple 680's, but I'm 100% on getting a second later on. Modular is definitely a must though, I'm borderline OCD when it comes to cables, especially around a workstation.
post #7 of 12
I've never seen one of the Korean IPS models in person, but the dell completely blew me away. From all the threads I believe the manufacturer gives all the A+ stock to Apple/Dell and sell the A- stock to everyone else. What that means from the general consensus is that it has a higher chance for dead pixels and or bleeding.

For the price though getting a $900 monitor (at least can be much more) for $400ish is a steal. Here's a pair of links for example with the same monitor but one is guaranteed to be perfect while the other is more of a roll of the dice.

Pixel Perfect $430; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Monitor-/140732235601?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c44b7f51


Regular $350; http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150788045871?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231baafc2f


Btw prices seemed to have changed a few months ago prices were much closer but not it seems the roll of the dice might be wourth it tongue.gif




Also here's a quick site I found with some info on the PSU things; http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers

Though you can just google it and see tons of forums and tons of posts about it.

Edit* I shame OCN talking about PSU's and giving info and not linking some one to this site; http://www.jonnyguru.com/

Tons of info at Johnny guru and you can seem very detailed breakdowns for PSU's and how some actually perform. They've tested 750w psu's that are underrated that have been able to pull closer to 850w I believe that are highly rated. But yeah great info there.
Edited by Junkboy - 4/28/12 at 4:41am
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post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkboy View Post

I want to ask you why you need lga 2011? I see a lot of people spend tons of cash on some of their rigs for editing and rendering (or folding) and choose lga 2011 but then turn around and not buy a six core and settle on a quad. I ask this because if you don't want bang for buck and you're spending 2k+ why wouldn't you just go all in and just get the a 3930k a monster of a cpu that is a complete behemoth. Otherwise you might be better served going Ivy/Sandy and saving 100 bucks on a mobo 100 bucks on ram (as 16 gigs in two sticks is MUCH cheaper), and getting a 2600l/2700k/3770k OC'ing that sucker to 4.0-4-8 easily (depending on if you go SB/Ivy).
Also if desk space is an issue how about one of these?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5400&seq=1&format=2
The also have double,
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5401&seq=1&format=2
and three way adjustable mounts
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2
Also depending on where you live, and if you don't live near a micro center, I would suggest getting as many parts as possible from amazon.com. Amazon doesn't charge tax for us here in CA and when spending 2k+ that will be about a 10% savings depending on state. I assume you live in the states. (which I shouldn't since you're either up very early or very if you do live in the states) tongue.gif

How much of a performance jump is there between the 3820 and the 3930k? And am I correct in assuming that the 3930k will be easier to OC, since it's a 'k' series CPU?

As far as desk space goes, I use a computer armoire, so a multi-monitor set up isn't an option for me right now. It will be once I get a new desk (maybe closer to the end of the year), and once that happens I'll start looking into buying more monitors and another 680 for SLI.

You were correct in your assumption, but I'm currently out of the country (8PM here), and won't be back for another few weeks. But I live in Hawaii, so with that comes a couple cons. 1-shipping rates are going to be killer, but 2-the only option from Newegg (haven't looked at Amazon's options yet) is 2-day. So at least the parts I order from Newegg will be there in a snap. And 3- there aren't any decent computer stores on Oahu. There's only 2 Best Buy's on island, both of which have a crap selection of everything, so pretty much the only option I have is to purchase everything online mad.gif

And thanks for the links on the PSU's! Don't shame OCN, the advice I was previously given was from elsewhere thumb.gif
post #9 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazedsilence View Post

How much of a performance jump is there between the 3820 and the 3930k? And am I correct in assuming that the 3930k will be easier to OC, since it's a 'k' series CPU?
As far as desk space goes, I use a computer armoire, so a multi-monitor set up isn't an option for me right now. It will be once I get a new desk (maybe closer to the end of the year), and once that happens I'll start looking into buying more monitors and another 680 for SLI.
You were correct in your assumption, but I'm currently out of the country (8PM here), and won't be back for another few weeks. But I live in Hawaii, so with that comes a couple cons. 1-shipping rates are going to be killer, but 2-the only option from Newegg (haven't looked at Amazon's options yet) is 2-day. So at least the parts I order from Newegg will be there in a snap. And 3- there aren't any decent computer stores on Oahu. There's only 2 Best Buy's on island, both of which have a crap selection of everything, so pretty much the only option I have is to purchase everything online mad.gif
And thanks for the links on the PSU's! Don't shame OCN, the advice I was previously given was from elsewhere thumb.gif

Yeah the K series is a straight multi and your done.

If you will be changing desks and then upgrading monitors I would suggest keeping an eye out on neweggs open box deals since you can get 24" monitors for 80 bucks basically.

For example this one ;

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052&RandomID=7735176908816520120428052443

Is one of my monitors and when it goes open box it's $77.99+tax freeshipping so it's a pretty decent deal. I was lucky and mine came 100% a-ok with no dead pixels or any problems.

I order most of my things from Amazon as a Prime member I use their streaming service (like netflix) and get two day free shipping here in Los Angeles, or one day shipping for 4 bucks per item on 99.9% of their items for 80 bucks a year. I order plenty of stuff so it's more than wourth it for me personally.

Ah, no I didn't mean the PSU info you got, your friend is right most Corairs are extremely solid. What I meant was, I personally shaming OCN by not giving a link to Johnny guru sooner tongue.gif


Edit* didn't realize I didn't answer your second question about CPU, you will go from 4 cores 8 threads to 6 cores and 12 threads it's a pretty massive increase in performance that most people really don't need. You wouldn't notice it in everyday usage to tell you the truth or gaming (not yet anyways) but rendering, editing, and folding will see big jumps all around. The cash saved on some of that tax from amazon could go into the 3930k thumb.gif
Edited by Junkboy - 4/28/12 at 5:59am
Ada
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Ada
(24 items)
 
Aegis
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD 1700 Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3 EVGA GTX 980 ti Classified F4-3600C16D-16GTZ @3200 
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Intel 520 120GB SSD Samsung F2 1TB X2 Samsung F4 2TB Hitachi 1TB X2 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Seagate 3 TB Pioneer BDR 2207 Noctua NH D14 Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme 
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Enermax 140mm T.B. Vegas Duo x2 Win 10 Pro Extreme Edition Catleap 2B  ASUS VH242H  
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech mk260 NZXT Hale90 750 Fractal Design Arc Midi Logitech G9x 
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Intel G645 Asrock z77 Extreme 4 Nvidia Branded GTX 460 SLI 8GB Corsair Vengeance Low profile DDR3 1600 
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post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hm. I will keep an eye out for the open-box deals. Are those products simply models that customers bought and returned in new/damn near new condition? Or do they have minor defects?

And I don't have Amazon Prime, I don't order enough stuff online (this will obviously be a huge exception) where it would save me money. But, I'll have to check out what parts they have on Amazon, and how much their shipping would cost me from them (I'm expecting Newegg's to be around $200 if I bought everything from them). I'll also have to check out if Amazon Prime could end up saving me money on shipping, it's always nice to trim off a bit a fat on the sides tongue.gif

Ideally though, I'd like to have the majority of my initial purchase through one vendor/one shipment, but if I can save a significant amount of money by splitting between Newegg and Amazon I'll end up doing that.
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Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel - General › Im going to start purchasing the parts for this rig in a couple of weeks, can someone look this over?