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What and How to Lap??

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
Currently have X2 3800+ With IHS, i just ordered w/c with the copper tdx block.
Interested in lapping one or both?
and how much should i lap the IHS, and what grits,etc,etc...

never done before.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 21
Lapp them both, the block and the IHS. You lapp them both untill the have a uniform ultra shine (Bling).

Use grits:
400,600,800,1000,1200, Then anything you wish after this...
I reccomend for a first timer to buy a premade kit. They have kits at www.easypckits.com or at www.frozencpu.com

When lapping, you want to work from the lower grit, to the highest. When sanding you want to move the block,or cpu, in a circular or figure 8 pattern to insure even wear. Some people mark an X on the surface with a marker and sand until it is gone, then move to the next higher grit. You want to sand on a flat surface, perfectly flat! A piece of glass or mirror will work best. Also, a little watter on the sand paper helps the process go a little fast and work more effectively. When changing grits, clean the surface of any old grit to prevent the larger grit weariong out the next level finer grit paper, or goudging (spelling?) the surface. Also a little tip on lapping th IHS, is to push the pins of the cpu into a piece of foam or something of the sort to protect them from bending.

Lapping can yeild anywhere from 4c-15c temp drops @ load.

Good luck lapping and enjoy cooler temps!
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post #3 of 21
buy 2000-grit sandpaper at autozone, get a piece of glass out of a picture frame, and used a napkin or some neoprene to cushion the pins under your fingers.
then, tape the different grit of sandpaper to your piece of glass to ensure complete flatness, and procede to sand the cpu down starting from a low grit and going to a high grit. to ensure that you sanded a complete layer, i suggest you use a sharpie marker and mark an "X" from the corners and then once the "X" is gone, use the next highest grit. i used 320grit, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit.
then, you can do the same to the bottom of the heatsink which definitely makes it all the more worth it

note: this voids cpu warranties. try it at your own risk.
i checked many places including napa and hardware stores, autozone was my best find. napa was second best at 1500grit.
they sell kits with 3000grit and i believe someone on this forum managed to get a hold of 4000grit. completely unnecessary if you're using air cooling, but definitely worth it if you're on water, and even more worth it on phase...

heres mine:





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post #4 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by FpS-Sean
Currently have X2 3800+ With IHS, i just ordered w/c with the copper tdx block.
Interested in lapping one or both?
and how much should i lap the IHS, and what grits,etc,etc...

never done before.

Thanks.
Use real fine grit to start when lapping your IHS and be careful not to bend your pins. Do it on a piece of glass. Get some plate glass if you can its alot smoother. I get mine at a local glass place just ask for some scrap, a 12 x 12inch piece is great.Start with a 1000 grit piece and go finer from there you just want to take off enough to make sure it good and flat. If you look most of them have a cup in the middle, just get that out and leave it nice and smooth.You can use wet & dry sandpaper, but just put a little bit of water on it, just enough to help it slide easy, not so much as to splash around and get on the rest of your CPU..Be careful not to drag the edges when your doing it..Here's a link to HSF lapping...Info: Want To Lap Your P4's or A64's IHS? (also applies to heatsinks & water blocks) - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net
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post #5 of 21
Guys, starting with higher grits paper will take FOREVER to lapp the IHS. The real purpose of lapping is to insure that the surface is FLAT, and not concave/convex, which would make for a horrible contact between the IHS and the Cooler surface. Starting with 2000grit paper will not sand down the surface flat.
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post #6 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbasil1
Guys, starting with higher grits paper will take FOREVER to lapp the IHS. The real purpose of lapping is to insure that the surface is FLAT, and not concave/convex, which would make for a horrible contact between the IHS and the Cooler surface. Starting with 2000grit paper will not sand down the surface flat.
who said to start with 2000grit?
Quote:
Use real fine grit to start
i think he meant 320-400grit is "real fine" since there are much rougher grits out there... which would be bad since you only want to get through the nickel plating and you wouldnt want to remove too much copper... just smooth it out.
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post #7 of 21
Both of you
Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k
Use real fine grit to start when lapping your IHS and be careful not to bend your pins. Do it on a piece of glass. Get some plate glass if you can its alot smoother. I get mine at a local glass place just ask for some scrap, a 12 x 12inch piece is great.Start with a 1000 grit piece and go finer from there you just want to take off enough to make sure it good and flat. If you look most of them have a cup in the middle, just get that out and leave it nice and smooth.You can use wet & dry sandpaper, but just put a little bit of water on it, just enough to help it slide easy, not so much as to splash around and get on the rest of your CPU..Be careful not to drag the edges when your doing it..Here's a link to HSF lapping...Info: Want To Lap Your P4's or A64's IHS? (also applies to heatsinks & water blocks) - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net
Quote:
Originally Posted by fade2green514
buy 2000-grit sandpaper at autozone, get a piece of glass out of a picture frame, and used a napkin or some neoprene to cushion the pins under your fingers.
then, tape the different grit of sandpaper to your piece of glass to ensure complete flatness, and procede to sand the cpu down starting from a low grit and going to a high grit. to ensure that you sanded a complete layer, i suggest you use a sharpie marker and mark an "X" from the corners and then once the "X" is gone, use the next highest grit. i used 320grit, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit.
then, you can do the same to the bottom of the heatsink which definitely makes it all the more worth it

note: this voids cpu warranties. try it at your own risk.
i checked many places including napa and hardware stores, autozone was my best find. napa was second best at 1500grit.
they sell kits with 3000grit and i believe someone on this forum managed to get a hold of 4000grit. completely unnecessary if you're using air cooling, but definitely worth it if you're on water, and even more worth it on phase...
And the kits i linked to, especially easypckits, has paper finer than 2500grit. The final grit is 10 micron. Which is much finer than 2500grit.
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post #8 of 21
You all type and edit fast...I'm getting dizzy..
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post #9 of 21
Thread Starter 
thanks for the links and pics

Ill def lap the wblock now but ill see about the ihs later.
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post #10 of 21
start with like....320 or 400 on your heatsink...maybe 400 for your IHS..

I've lappep my BT, and it was REALLY not flat...

Also, lapped my old XP-120 that I gave to my friend, and I didn't get it perfectly flat cause I ran outta 320....but I'd defnrecommend it cause most heatsinks have a HUGE concave...(which it did) There was still a dime sized concave when I gave it to him...but better than when I started (and his stock heatsink)

Anyways...why lap the IHS? Just remove it. way easier, less risky if you ask me...
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