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Car Sub + Car Amp + PC PSU = Ghetto sound system! - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Also (yes, this deserves a seperate post).....

You CANNOT put that into a ported box. There's absolutely ZERO documention on that woofer anywhere to give you the T/S parameters, which are REQUIRED to build a ported box for it. I just checked Sony's website, and there is absolutely ZERO documentation on those drivers at all (or even their newer lineup).

Make it about a 1.0 cubic foot sealed box, that's about the best you'll do with that driver.
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Junkyard
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NAStradamous
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HTPC01
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post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post

Also (yes, this deserves a seperate post).....
You CANNOT put that into a ported box. There's absolutely ZERO documention on that woofer anywhere to give you the T/S parameters, which are REQUIRED to build a ported box for it. I just checked Sony's website, and there is absolutely ZERO documentation on those drivers at all (or even their newer lineup).
Make it about a 1.0 cubic foot sealed box, that's about the best you'll do with that driver.

I've done my best to make it a 1.0cu/ft box. I've used a few online calculators and I get around 1.2cu/ft but that's not to count for the PSU in the box and the amp, so I figure it's more around .9-1.0

I haven't found any vid's on youtube of people blowing up PSU's or amps using a PSU.....hm. It's runnin like a champ right now tho...

I don't think you guys realize I've got the amp turned basically all the way down as far as volume on it goes, and I'm not going to push the thing. I hear your guy's warnings and I don't expect to get in the 100db range with this puppy...lol

I believe I would also trip the OCP before I reach anything dangerous...hopefully..lol who knows
post #13 of 17
Basically, yes, you did succeed in it running. BUT aside from a short term probably VERY mediocre output, it is only going to be worth the fun you put into it, as well as ruin the psu and amp.

I was just snowballing with the CAP idea. On a side note, I am pretty sure I'm placing an order on a VX-11 like you suggested in my thread a bit ago pioneer biggrin.gif. I'm 100% positive it will be all I'm looking for, but for some reason I have this thing where I have to go big or go home 99% of the time. Probably something to do with making $40k a year, living at home, and going to CC rolleyes.gif. BUT I am the only 20 year old I know with a retirement account tongue.gif
post #14 of 17
Like I said mate, its like running a high powered car system directly off the alternator of a car. You're just ASKING for trouble. It might be "working" right now, but car amplifiers are NOT designed to operate under 12.00v. They're actually rated for 14.4v (charging voltage in a car). Any drops below 12.00v, you're doing harm on that amplifier. And just from the sheer fact of what you're doing, you're constantly doing harm to the PSU every time your bass hits.

Again, yes this is a VERY fun project. I thoroughly enjoyed it when I put mine together for the guide in my sig. However it is NOT a long term idea as it just won't work in the long run.

If you were powering a car head unit (since they're low power), or even better yet a car head unit with external home amplifiers......then it would work 1,000x better and not be a problem (even better yet if you were using it on the same PSU as your computer is running on....for the 5v and 3.3v rails to be occupied). What you're trying to do will technically work...up until the point the PSU or amp fails or both. Like I said, its not a matter of if...but when.

I wish you luck though, and I really hope this experience can drive you into REAL equipment (aka away from the Wal Mart specials).
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Junkyard
(18 items)
 
NAStradamous
(12 items)
 
HTPC01
(16 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2320 @ 3.1GHz MSI B75MA-E33 HIS HD7970 3GB @ 1050 / 1700, 1.17v Patriot 2x4GB DDR3-1066 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Crucial MX100 256GB WD Green 2TB DVDRW Corsair H50 Push / Pull 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
NZXT 120mm fans strapped to stock 7970 cooler Windows 10 Pro Dell 3007WFP Dell 2007FP 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 2007FP Cheap Toshiba (R.I.P. Ducky) PC Power & Cooling Silencer MKIII 950w Cheap Garbage (free) 
MouseAudio
Logitech G602 Yardsale Special 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3330 Asus H61 MSI GTX 750Ti Low Profile 2x4GB Hynix DDR3-1333 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
60GB Kingston SSD 1TB Seagate Samsung DVDRW CoolerMaster Gemin II 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 + Steam Big Picture / Plex HT 50" Insignia LED 1080p Logitech Rosewill Green 530w 
CaseMouseAudioOther
Silverstone HTPC Logitech Pioneer 2.0 tower speakers + 135w RMS Rosewill MCE Remote 
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post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Alright well i'm forewarned. Right now it's working great and basically the only point of building this was to add some more range for my Creative speaker system for my PC, that's basically it.
post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Just a little bump on this. I got it finished up. Screw holes patched, painted black. Right now it ghetto rigged up since I don't have feet for it yet. With the sound on my PC maxed, which is the maximum volume I can send to the sub, the voltage only drops to about 11.60V. I feel its safe and I'm quite happy with the volume, range, and quality of the sub. I agree the thing is huge but it kinda needs to be to work well in a small room.

Had it on for the past 2 days. Workin great! thumb.gif
post #17 of 17
Haha, I've actually been doing the same thing as you, except with a higher quality sub and amp, and a 750w PSU with a single 12v rail. I have had this setup running for over a year, and I play it anywhere from low to high volumes. The quality is much better than I expected, especially with a store bought box. But either way, I am speaking from experience that if you do this right (or as right as it can be) it can give decent sound at low volumes, unnecessarily loud volumes, and it can be surprisingly durable.
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