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Gigabyte GTX 670 OC Version *HANDS ON* - Page 39

post #381 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by staryoshi View Post

Yep, that was it, thanks. That answers two of my questions in one swoop. smile.gif

What were those questions if you don't mind me asking.
post #382 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.JD View Post

What were those questions if you don't mind me asking.

He was wanting to know if it was a reference PCB or not. (You can tell if it's reference 'cause it has "AMD" or "nVidia" printed above the PCI-E slot.) - Which in this case it doesn't making it non-reference.

I'm assuming the second part to the questions was who makes the PCB? Which is Gigabyte which is quite clearly printed! thumb.gif
 
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post #383 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightsout View Post

Saving $100 for virtually the same in game performance doesn't sound like a good deal to you?

Sending back a used card, paying shipping to do so, then purchasing and possibly paying shipping on another. Sounds like going a week without a GPU to save what will likely amount to closer to $50-$70. I guess it depends on how thrifty you are. I wouldn't go without a main GPU like that for a week just to save $50-70, but then again I use my computers for work.

If this was really about the money, a 7950-7970 should have been the purchase to begin with. Besides, anyone sending it back without some official reviews and comparisons first is being hasty IMO. I'd want to see some more facts before swapping out parts to save a few bucks.
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post #384 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.JD View Post

What were those questions if you don't mind me asking.

I was curious about the model # and the # of pins on the PCIE lane smile.gif Things that are irrelevant to most...
    
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post #385 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by staryoshi View Post

I was curious about the model # and the # of pins on the PCIE lane smile.gifThings that are irrelevant to most...

I think that in the case of these Gigabyte GTX 670s though...they were actually some very relevant details. thumb.gif
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post #386 of 1506
Just checked, max power target for a short pcb 670 is 122% on afterburner 2.20. Guess pcb on the 670 doesn't allow for more power.
post #387 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wulfgar View Post

Why do people act like this is news ?
The 470 OCed performed like a 480, the 570 OCed performed like a 580, the same thing will happen with the 670. Those who buy the 680 do it because they really want the fastest card out there not the best bang for buck. At least that's how i see it.

Because it took a core overclock of 200-230MHz and multiple voltage bumps to equal the performance of a stock 480. The 470's were great overclockers, but this non-reference factory overclock model is substantially faster than a 680 out of the box. The biggest factory OC model for the 470's was what, 100MHz maybe with another 100-140MHz to go - the 670's are eating the 680's with a 50-90MHz overclock.
Not that the 470's were bad, they overclocked like mad and had VRM's that were tough as nails but the 670's are much closer to a stock 680 and look like they could overclock with ease.

This really is the 8800GT of the 600 series, even better, the 670 has 2GB's of vram and a compact reference design. If the price is good you can bet this thing will be getting the card of the decade award.
Edited by pengs - 5/6/12 at 10:40pm
post #388 of 1506
Slightly offtopic but since we're talking bout 670/680s i thought i'd ask here.

I managed to get my 680 to 1270 stable clocks , any higher and it starts artifacting with black patches. It's the 680 gigabyte OC model with 3x windforce. Power target only goes to max 111%. Max temps with the OC still 65 just like normal.

Is the OC safe if there's no artifacting/freezing ? As in can i use it 24/7? And am i in the safe-zone or even though if it's fine now it can start acting up later?

Also if by some weird event the card fries itself (with this mild stable OC) can i still get the warranty? I mean, most people say that oc-ing voids warranty but at the same time they say noone can tell if you ocd or not. So what's the deal?

Thanks!
post #389 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordikon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by lightsout View Post

Saving $100 for virtually the same in game performance doesn't sound like a good deal to you?

Sending back a used card, paying shipping to do so, then purchasing and possibly paying shipping on another. Sounds like going a week without a GPU to save what will likely amount to closer to $50-$70. I guess it depends on how thrifty you are. I wouldn't go without a main GPU like that for a week just to save $50-70, but then again I use my computers for work.

If this was really about the money, a 7950-7970 should have been the purchase to begin with. Besides, anyone sending it back without some official reviews and comparisons first is being hasty IMO. I'd want to see some more facts before swapping out parts to save a few bucks.
Yah its definitely a hassle. But I'm down to go without a gpu for a week for 80 bucks. Then I'm only 40 away from a second m4 for raid 0. thumb.gif
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post #390 of 1506
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris85 View Post

Slightly offtopic but since we're talking bout 670/680s i thought i'd ask here.
I managed to get my 680 to 1270 stable clocks , any higher and it starts artifacting with black patches. It's the 680 gigabyte OC model with 3x windforce. Power target only goes to max 111%. Max temps with the OC still 65 just like normal.
Is the OC safe if there's no artifacting/freezing ? As in can i use it 24/7? And am i in the safe-zone or even though if it's fine now it can start acting up later?
Also if by some weird event the card fries itself (with this mild stable OC) can i still get the warranty? I mean, most people say that oc-ing voids warranty but at the same time they say noone can tell if you ocd or not. So what's the deal?
Thanks!

The OC is safe as long as you're not running too many volts through it. (I have no idea how many volts is suggested for a GTX680) - Google around?
Make sure you stress it with a few programs - I quite like MSI Kombustor myself seeing as it's easy to setup and comes with Afterburner. Run Kombustor fullscreen for about 30 minutes I suppose. BF3 is also a good stability test if you have it! thumb.gif

If you're getting artifacts, up the voltage! If you can't up it anymore or it's getting too hot. Bring back the clockspeed! Otherwise if it's stable it's good to go for 24/7 as long as you're holding to temperature/voltage constraints.

As for warranty, some companies allow it. Some don't. I know ASUS it well known for overclocking/overvolting and warranties - Same with eVGA. I'm pretty sure MSI allow it along with Sapphire.
 
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