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If you were to build a radiator.... - Page 3

post #21 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by twich12 View Post

im still a little curious as to what special machinery is required for making a rad, if your not mass producing and dont mind putting the time in then you could easily make a great looking and effective rad. all you need are fins and some coppper pipes and then wrap the edges in sheet metal so you dont see the ends. Heck you can even make a copper/brass res at the end that feeds into half the tubes, then have it sent back up on the other side of the res (2 pass rad). built in and made of / wrapped in pretty sheet metal
front view
Lres Rres
l l l l l l
l l l l l l
l l l l l l
LL V J J

good idea smile.gif
post #22 of 92
210You could use many smaller tubes made from soft copper and crush them flatter. This could improve water/copper surface area and increase turbulence. Or you could totally go away from fins altogether and use larger soft copper and crush the out sides of the tube leaving a small hole down the middle. The crushed copper will become fins.
Edited by greymonk - 5/12/12 at 10:38am
post #23 of 92
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all of the input guys! I was talking with my dad over the weekend(he's a drafter and mechanical engineer) I need to get a drill press and a few other tools before I begin. I've done research and I can either melt the copper together to the fins, weld it, or use silver solder. I don't have a welder but I'm willing to purchase one.

I need to find a place that sells thin copper sheets, home depot does not have them. They did have aluminum sheets but they were expensive, not to mention aluminum has much lower thermal conductivity.


Updated from my phone, might be spelling errors.
    
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post #24 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosSpiceyWeiner View Post

Thanks for all of the input guys! I was talking with my dad over the weekend(he's a drafter and mechanical engineer) I need to get a drill press and a few other tools before I begin. I've done research and I can either melt the copper together to the fins, weld it, or use silver solder. I don't have a welder but I'm willing to purchase one.
I need to find a place that sells thin copper sheets, home depot does not have them. They did have aluminum sheets but they were expensive, not to mention aluminum has much lower thermal conductivity.
Updated from my phone, might be spelling errors.

If you have access to a butane/propane/acetylene torch, I'd get silver solder (that one that's 95% Pb 5% Ag) and solder the fins to the copper lines with that.

It has an incredible mechanical strength, and due to the silver on the mix, the thermal conductivity is anywhere near bad.
   
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post #25 of 92
Go to roofing supplier, copper sheets are used for flashing and eavestroughs. No need for silver solder, just use lead-free solder. When building your core cut strips of copper width of bay x 35 mm- counting on 8-12 fins per inch, so approx 50 to 80 strips(lots of fun)- drill series of holes along strips for copper tubing making sure hole is a tiny bit smaller than tubing so that you create an interference fit- you want the best mechanical bond as well as the solder, I would also suggest you pre solder all holes and tubing. When drilling stack as many of the strips as possible and then drill first hole, stick a dowel or tube in first hole to keep strips aligned and keep drilling the rest. You will have to press the copper tube in, use hardened copper not soft. BTW source your tube and copper fittings before you start your drilling so that you don`t space the tubes too close to each other and have difficulty hooking them up to each other. It will be a fun but rewarding project, Best of luck ! PS I hate negative trolls.thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gifbike.gif
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post #26 of 92
In regards to making something fit your intentions instead of buying something made to do the job intended. Back in the 70's the company I was working for got an order for a new piece of equipment.We made aircraft ground support equipment.Mainly belt loaders (the moving belt that transports the luggage) lavatory service vehicles and double-ups (basicaly a box that can reach up to the top of the tail). The new piece of equipment was a truck outfitted to clean the carpet inside the plane.

We needed hot water,everyone knows catalytic converters get hot.The lead engineer had this idea that we were going to wrap copper tubing around the catalytic converter to heat the water. No matter what we did (tubing size,tubing placement,pump parameters) nothing we did would allow the water to get much over 110F. The machine did not do a very good job at cleaning the carpet,the water was simply not hot enough. This engineer wasted a lot of time and cost us a lot of money trying to be clever and not simply heating the water in a more conventional way. Sometimes you simply have to admit your idea is bunk.
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post #27 of 92
Subbed for this
post #28 of 92
Here are some suggestions if you really want to build your own rad.

when using a tube bender fill the tubes with sand packed nicely to prevent the tube from narrowing and getting the wavy ribbed badness on the inside of the bend.
thinner the copper the better it will transfer heat from water to tube to fin to air.
high fin density, soldered (good luck with this one)

buy your supplies at a rad shop, ask what they suggest for solder. they might have some to sell you.
I would suggest talking with a rad shop or two or three or a dozen to find one that will work with you(charge you) to custom design one.

PS if you need any advice or opinions you can ask here, I am a very skilled customizer, welder(Oxy-acetylene and MIG), bodyman, mechanic, electronics repair, etc.. etc..
 
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post #29 of 92
I made my own "radiator" It makes the res water over 10c below ambient whistle.gif
It did involve Harbor Freight,too :lachen.gif:
Umm..but it's not fitting into some drive bays biggrin.gif

Maybe a TEC plate might be a "cooler" project?
Edited by Schmuckley - 5/13/12 at 9:17pm
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post #30 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmuckley View Post

I made my own "radiator" It makes the res water over 10c below ambient whistle.gif
It did involve Harbor Freight,too :lachen.gif:
Umm..but it's not fitting into some drive bays biggrin.gif
Maybe a TEC plate might be a "cooler" project?
You must be a magician to make a rad that goes below ambient. rolleyes.gif
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