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Outdoor Radiator Questions - Page 2

post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plooto View Post

Could you post a Core Temp screenshot?

Well Yes I could, but only in 13 days... I work on a camp up north and I'm on days off for R&R right now (21 days of work with 7 days off).

When I get back up north I'll post some core temps. But I have a chiller working in tandem with the rad box. So my temps won't reflect water temps (8-17c water).
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post #12 of 20
Insulate the cooler than roomtemp components and you are good to go. As far as I understand you dont need nothing too fancy - some padding around CPU socket and tubing (and GPU blocks if you use them) and you are all shiny. Would suggest running a car antifreeze mixture with low enough freezing point to avoid issues during winter and also, it would be good idea to have some little valves in your loop, so if you need to upgrade you can just switch off the outside loop without having to drain it.

I have actually been thinking about goin geothermal eventually wink.gif Dig an hole until you hit the water and dump couple of rads in the water. Down there is pretty constant ~4C around the year. Around here the water is only approx 2 meters down, so the hole can be made easily with an shovel. Eventually that is wink.gif I'm still in the process of assembling my first water loop so will see how this goes for a start before I get all fancy with geothermal stuff.
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post #13 of 20
One problem you may run into is the water running in from outside being below the dew point inside, causing condensation that could potentially short-circuit your motherboard or other components.
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post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by superericla View Post

One problem you may run into is the water running in from outside being below the dew point inside, causing condensation that could potentially short-circuit your motherboard or other components.

You can easily fix that with a cheap dehumidifier. Well, depends... I can't but maybe you can. My water can hit -20c easily. But if it oesn't get too too cold, a small dehumidifier in a closed room where the puter is can easily control dew and condensation.

LINKY
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post #15 of 20
I wouldn't suggest using common car antifreeze in copper radiators. It corrodes copper pretty quick if the copper is exposed to air after having been in contact with antifreeze. Bubbles finding their way in and out of your radiator could eat a hole in some of the weak points in a few months.

There are plenty of non-automotive antifreezes out there though, and even some food-safe options. I would recommend one of those so you can work on your loop and eat donuts in a peaceful state of mind. biggrin.gif

Just be sure to call the manufacturer and ask if their product has any reaction to copper, nickel, aluminum, acrylic, and anything else that might be in your loop. They never list that stuff on the bottle, they just assume their product is only going to be used for the single thing it was designed for.

Freezing is only an issue if you get below -20c I would think, but rog is calling me a liar. He probably has some pretty good flow rates on his setup. The faster the water is moving, the less of an issue freezing becomes.

Hey rog, didn't mindchill build you a rheostat that controls for dewpoint temperatures? He may have another customer if my memory isn't being dysfunctional about this.
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post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganf View Post

I wouldn't suggest using common car antifreeze in copper radiators. It corrodes copper pretty quick if the copper is exposed to air after having been in contact with antifreeze. Bubbles finding their way in and out of your radiator could eat a hole in some of the weak points in a few months.
There are plenty of non-automotive antifreezes out there though, and even some food-safe options. I would recommend one of those so you can work on your loop and eat donuts in a peaceful state of mind. biggrin.gif
Just be sure to call the manufacturer and ask if their product has any reaction to copper, nickel, aluminum, acrylic, and anything else that might be in your loop. They never list that stuff on the bottle, they just assume their product is only going to be used for the single thing it was designed for.
Freezing is only an issue if you get below -20c I would think, but rog is calling me a liar. He probably has some pretty good flow rates on his setup. The faster the water is moving, the less of an issue freezing becomes.
Hey rog, didn't mindchill build you a rheostat that controls for dewpoint temperatures? He may have another customer if my memory isn't being dysfunctional about this.
lol, nah, I use DTX from Mayhems (Glycol with anti-corrosives and anti-bacterial additives). I use a 60-40 mix in winter for my V1.0 and a 80-20 in summer/fall/spring for V2.0. And yeah with the RD-20 the flow is spectacular, I'd be curious to see when the water would start to gel up with high flow rates and at what temps (I havn't tested it, I just tried to avoid it... =P). I know that with the v2.0 starts to show signs of high viscosity at -5 and below, but no ice formation in the reservoirs. The lowest I was able to see was -8c as I started these projects when winter was finishing. I'll have to wait until Nov to start seeing the results I'm looking for.

And yeah I have two of his controllers, but in the process purchasing some other ones from Mindchill (should work even better).
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post #17 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganf View Post

I wouldn't suggest using common car antifreeze in copper radiators. It corrodes copper pretty quick if the copper is exposed to air after having been in contact with antifreeze. Bubbles finding their way in and out of your radiator could eat a hole in some of the weak points in a few months.

That is incorrect. Common car antifreeze is 50-50 mixture of distilled water and monoethyleneglycerol which has corrosion preventive properties, particularly against galvanic corrosion. It is also somewhat worse cooling liquid than pure distilled bcos ethyleneglycerol has worse properties in this regard than water.

If you are using car antifreeze and your copper is corroding you have some other issues somewhere and it would corrode even faster without that car antifreeze. Unless your "common car antifreeze" is something particularly vicious and not that common.
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post #18 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carniflex View Post

That is incorrect. Common car antifreeze is 50-50 mixture of distilled water and monoethyleneglycerol which has corrosion preventive properties, particularly against galvanic corrosion. It is also somewhat worse cooling liquid than pure distilled bcos ethyleneglycerol has worse properties in this regard than water.
If you are using car antifreeze and your copper is corroding you have some other issues somewhere and it would corrode even faster without that car antifreeze. Unless your "common car antifreeze" is something particularly vicious and not that common.

"Common car antifreeze" Never comes into contact with copper because the radiators are aluminum, actually. So it does prevent corrosion in automotive radiators.

The real problem isn't contact with antifreeze, as I stated clearly in my first post. It's when the antifreeze is allowed to evaporate on the surface of the copper. So long as your lines stay 100% purged of air, it wouldn't cause any corrosion. But can anyone guarantee they don't develop bubbles in their radiator on their PC?

At the very least, you would have a massive mess when you went to flush your rad, so why not just use something that doesn't cause that?

Edit: And I realize that some vehicles use copper radiators for heater and AC cores. I'm about to use one for a GPU radiator actually. But if you look inside you'll notice they're coated, either with some sort of treatment or brass.

You're more than welcome to wipe some antifreeze on a piece of clean copper and allow it to evaporate if you don't believe me. Probably more effective than me taking pictures anyways. And I hate cameras...
Edited by Ganf - 5/13/12 at 9:55am
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Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
OCZ Vertex 4 Custom loop Windows 7 64-bit TBD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Das Professional S series Seasonic SS-1250XM NZXT H630 Saitek Cyborg M.M.O. 7 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
Razer Invicta Asus Essence STX II 7.1 w/daughterboard Thrustmaster Warthog Joystick CH Pro Flight Throttle (soon) 
Other
Saitek Pro Flight Pedals 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.7 stable Gigabyte Z68ap-d3 Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 @1250/1750 8gb Samsung low profile green series 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
500gb, WD caviar blue OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD 24x dvdrw XSPC RASA RX360 kit 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 23" Acer Rosewill RK9000 w/MX cherry black switches PC Power and cooling 950w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Switch 810 Cyborg M.M.O. 7 Razer Scarab  Asus Xonar D1 
AudioAudio
Energy Take Classic 5.1 Home Theater Speaker Sy... Sony STRDH520 7.1 AV Receiver. 
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My Mangled Mess
(17 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 5930k Asrock X99 OC MSI R9 290x Lightning Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4 3000 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
OCZ Vertex 4 Custom loop Windows 7 64-bit TBD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Das Professional S series Seasonic SS-1250XM NZXT H630 Saitek Cyborg M.M.O. 7 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
Razer Invicta Asus Essence STX II 7.1 w/daughterboard Thrustmaster Warthog Joystick CH Pro Flight Throttle (soon) 
Other
Saitek Pro Flight Pedals 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 2500k @4.7 stable Gigabyte Z68ap-d3 Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 @1250/1750 8gb Samsung low profile green series 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
500gb, WD caviar blue OCZ Vertex 4 128gb SSD 24x dvdrw XSPC RASA RX360 kit 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 23" Acer Rosewill RK9000 w/MX cherry black switches PC Power and cooling 950w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Switch 810 Cyborg M.M.O. 7 Razer Scarab  Asus Xonar D1 
AudioAudio
Energy Take Classic 5.1 Home Theater Speaker Sy... Sony STRDH520 7.1 AV Receiver. 
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Reply
post #19 of 20
Thread Starter 
This or outdoor thing? This seems easier for me.

700
post #20 of 20
Thread Starter 
There seems to be a risk of Mechanical Damage and Metal Corrosion according to that dew point thing, though it will be fine for some months.
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