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[Video Added + Watercooling Results] Replacing the internal IHS TIM of an i7 3770K - Page 8

post #71 of 298
5/12/12 at 11:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclops View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by samwiches View Post

Does modded mean that you replaced the IHS paste with MX-4?
Did you realize what the installation problem was after IHS removal?

Yes and regarding your comment earlier about the removal of socket clamp, I think that was the the reason I couldn't get contact between the CPU and H50. I couldn't see clearly what the problem was as the motherboard was inside the case. Probably going to remove it later see if makes any difference.

I think the first IHS removal test showed the clamp removed, with tape securing the CPU in the bare socket.

Also suggest you lap the Noctua base a little bit, just for flatness. And about the spacers, see if you think grinding those down by couple of MM would provide the corrected mounting height after the IHS is gone.
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post #72 of 298
5/12/12 at 11:55pm
er uh
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post #73 of 298
5/13/12 at 12:06am
How hard was it to remove the ihs, and can you put it back on after removal?
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post #74 of 298
5/13/12 at 12:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iinversion View Post

5C with better TIM, you'd get even more if it was soldered like it should be.

I could potentially see it being a 10C+ difference with Liquid Pro TIM because it is 100% metal.
Edited by icehotshot - 5/13/12 at 12:53am
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post #75 of 298
5/13/12 at 12:15am
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I'm adamant that a liquid based cooler would yield better results here (bare chip against the heatsink) as the heat transfer between the internal heat spreader to a cold plate with liquid on the other side is much more efficient than just a piece of solid metal.

I say this because the temperature decreesed by replacing the TIm but we still had two layers of it. In theory, 1 less layer should improve heat transfer.

I believe the reason The guy that tested the exposed chip with the D14 didn't get improved temps was that the small internal block simply couldn't dispose of the generated heat quickly enough if it's in contact with a metal surface with no liquid involved as the heat can't escape efficiently,

I really hope I made at least a little sense. I'm so tired that I had to work on what I wrote for about 15 minutes just to make it partially understandable.
Edited by Cyclops - 5/13/12 at 12:17am
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post #76 of 298
5/13/12 at 1:10am
Nice work, I want to do this to my chip for the 5c, how did you stick the IHS back on?
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post #77 of 298
5/13/12 at 1:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclops View Post

I'm adamant that a liquid based cooler would yield better results here (bare chip against the heatsink) as the heat transfer between the internal heat spreader to a cold plate with liquid on the other side is much more efficient than just a piece of solid metal.

That's not how it works.

Air cooler heat transfer: CPU > Metal > Air
Liq cooler heat transfer: CPU > Metal > Liquid > Metal > Air

Assuming all else is equal, the air cooler is better because there are less middlemen for transfer inefficiencies. However, things are often not equal because the last portion, the "Metal > Air" part, is usually better in water cooling due to superior radiator placement, total surface area, and number of fans.

Edit: I suppose an air cooler would have an equivalent "liquid" transfer point within the materials of a heatpipe, but the thermal conductivity there should be vastly superior to the water-metal interfaces of a water cooling loop.
Edited by mavere - 5/13/12 at 1:31am
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post #78 of 298
5/13/12 at 1:33am
Anyone know if Artic Silver Formula 7 would be any good for this? It has "diamond" in the compound...rolleyes.gif
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post #79 of 298
5/13/12 at 1:33am
So basically, at 4.2GHz you're seeing 5C drop under 100% load? (just asking to clarify) With a soldered chip what would be the expected drop? 10C or more?
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post #80 of 298
5/13/12 at 1:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavere View Post

That's not how it works.
Air cooler heat transfer: CPU > Metal > Air
Liq cooler heat transfer: CPU > Metal > Liquid > Metal > Air
Assuming all else is equal, the air cooler is better because there are less middlemen for transfer inefficiencies. However, things are often not equal because the last portion, the "Metal > Air" part, is usually better in water cooling due to superior radiator placement, total surface area, and number of fans.

except water is better at removing heat then air is. obviously a radiator thats too small to dispate the wattage that the water has absorbed is going to be worse then air cooling. thats a poor arguement for air being better lol.

a propely set up water cooling loop is significantly better for cooling.
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