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Thermaltake "Armor" series case. (56k beware)

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
The story behind this is pretty amazing, Actually. I browse my local craigslist often for second hand computer / electronics. I saw a "Not working ibuypower PC" for sale advert, Messaged the person and it was actually one they custom built not too long ago. They were only asking $50 for it, So I figured something bad was wrong with it. The specs were Asus Striker Extreme (Bad sadly frown.gif ) 2GB Corsair Dominator PC2 1066 RAM, 2 x Hitacha 7200RPM 500GB SATA drives. TWO EVGA 8800GTS 640meg cards (No bridge) and a BRAND NEW Thermaltake Modular 700 watt PSU. Best part of all? It was housed in an ThermalTake Armor (Not sure which one) case. biggrin.gif Can't beat that for $50!!!

Anyways. Here it is with my parts in it. I had to drill out the holes to mount the radiator. If anyone can give me advice on better wire management, please do!

PS: Yes, The case is pretty dirty, too lazy to fully clean it.

PSS: If anyone has advice on what I can do about that bundle of wiring, Please let me know. It's mostly the 4-pin Molex connectors for the fans.


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post #2 of 3
Thread Starter 
Anyone at all can chime in on how I can improve my wiring? lol
post #3 of 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterDan View Post

It was housed in an ThermalTake Armor (Not sure which one) case
It is the Tt Armor VA8000BWS
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterDan View Post

Anyone at all can chime in on how I can improve my wiring? lol
There are those 4 oval channels where the expansion bay rack is riveted to the mobo tray where you can route the majority of your SATA power and data cables. As for the Molex connectors well, there are alot of unused E-ATX, BTX, etc standoff screwholes that you can use to loom the Molex power cable(s) with C-clamps on the backside of the mobo tray. The same can be done in the interior to keep the cables out of the airflow and to help in cable routing.

Considering that you've already modified the case you could solve some of your cable management problems by moving the top mounted audio, USB2.0, and firewire connectors by unscrewing their mount from the original position, fabricating a simple mount/faceplate, and installing it within the power/reset drive tray -which can be slotted wherever it works best and where you won't have cables stretched and running diagonally across the mobo.

Move the 3 bay i-Cage -holding your HDDs- into the lowest position possible to help clean up the data cable pathway to the mobos connectors.

Try to ditch one -or hopefully both- of those IDE ODDs with a SATA replacement(s).

____
Never use the included rear mount hard drive cage, it total screws up the chassis airflow and causes your PSU to run hotter.
If the accessory bay is still mounted, replace it with one of the filtered bay covers.
Edited by Frequency - 5/12/12 at 7:22pm
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Latest Build
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7-2600K ASUS Sabertooth P67 EVGA 03G-P3-1584 GTX580 Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1866 (16GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Intel 510 Series 120GB Western Digital VelociRaptor WD1500HLHX Western Digital Caviar Black WD2002FAEX ASUS BW-12B1ST 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Plus P/P Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 x64 Viewsonic/Optiquest Q22wb Microsoft Sidewinder X4 
PowerCaseMouseOther
CoolerMaster Silent Pro M1000 Corsair Carbide 300R (Modified) Logitech G300 Razer Nostromo 
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