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GTX590 on water to reduce dB and not OC - Page 3

post #21 of 25
5/18/12 at 2:03pm
Not going to read the entire thread but will offer some advice.

  • Put an XSPC EX240 up top down the bottom.
  • Get a D5 and XSPC dual bay res/pump housing, put it in two of your 5.25" bays, D5's are dead silent once the air is out.
  • Have a look here for inspiration.
  • Get same fan config as Snow Drift, P/P on bottom and P on top.
  • GT's would be ideal, extremely quiet fans while maintaining good air flow and static pressure, your noc's will do fine.
  • XSPC Blocks are great for performance/price.
  • You could get a combo pump/res if you don't want that D5, but it's know to be a bit more noisy.

Total cost after 2 blocks, pump/res combo and 2 rads (w/ fittings and tubing) is:
~$450 before shipping from Performance-PC's, might be able to get it cheaper at Jabtech.

P.S. It may seem like I'm a bit of an XSPC fanboy, but that's just because they make amazing products for the price.
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post #22 of 25
5/20/12 at 7:26am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

There is no issue having multiple radiators in a loop. I personally have a 2x120 and a 3x120 in my loop. Tubing is not complicated at all, don't worry.
Also don't worry about 4x120, you only need 3. People are forgetting that you will not be overclocking , and even though you have 4 GPUs, they're scaled down GPUs designed for dual-GPU cards. Each of your 4 GPU's counts more like .75 GPUs as far as heat is concerned.
The 120mm per component "rule" is based on the notion that people only liquid cool high end (hot) components, and they do it in order to achieve better temps for overclocking. You're doing neither.
Toss a 120x2 up top and a 120 on the back.
You can get a rad with a built in pump from swiftech + a micro res, or you can pick up a pump and add a small res-top to it. Either way will save you space in the end like you wanted.
Noctura's on their highest speed will be ok but you will want to use a shroud if at all possible, so check for space. Personally I'd suggest something with a bit more power, and a fan controller, so you can dial it down to noctura-level quietness but jack it up to high-performance mode if you start needing it for a demanding game.

Thanks! Excellent & practical advice. Now I have something to work with.
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post #23 of 25
5/20/12 at 7:41am
You should check out the CM690 thread - The Cooler Master 690 Club

You can fit two 240 rads inside, but you have to take out the bottom hard drive cage section. Easy in a 692. Then you can have one rad in the bottom and one up top. The XSPC RS240 kit with an extra RS240 radiator would probably do the job.

The RX radiator is deeper, and there might not be enough clearance up top. I'm not sure. My RX360 rads are in a custom tower of their own alongside my test bench.

Quite apart from noise, the other benefit of this is reduced temperatures.
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post #24 of 25
5/20/12 at 9:04am
Thread Starter 
It seems Zero4549 has fired my imitation for mounting.

On my CM690 I can mount the Swiftech MCR-X20 onto my single rear fan grill using their MCB-120 "Radbox", and attaching the RadBox to the middle fan location on the MCR320. This will lift the triple fan rad up and should only poke out the top by a little, I have to do some measurements when in the office next.

http://www.swiftech.org/images/products/MCRX20-DRIVE-REV3/external-install.jpg

Shows the double rad fitted to the read, but I assume it should be possible to use the triple rad mounted on the middle fan. It also maybe possible to do push & pull fans. But that 6 and double to noise.

Also the MCR-X20 has three inlet ports provide return lines for up to 3 different waterblocks, I only need two! Integrated pump and reservoir, so in theory all I would need is the GTX590 blocks and tubing.

If this looks ok, liquid for my GPUs is looking doable!
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post #25 of 25
5/20/12 at 3:22pm
I've got an older version of the radbox holding a 3x120 Black Ice GT Extreme off the back of my case, with push-pull 38mm fans and 25mm shrouds on both sides.

Handles it no problem, but my older version is made of painted steel not ABS plastic. I also went to the hardware store and picked up some plastic spacers to keep the thing from bending inward.

New plastic one should be fine since you will be using a lighter rad and it wont be extended nearly as far since you're using more conventional fans. Pick up some spacers if needed, they're dirt cheep.
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