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Asus Z9PE-D8 Owner's thread - Page 2

post #11 of 2342
Hey ChrisSibbald,

Coolers too tight...?
I mentioned to PhxTriode that my coolers are Dynatron R17s. I had never installed a Sandy Brdge CPU cooler before and I got a little enthusiastic with the spring loaded mounting screws - I had torked them a tad too tight. As a result I was having problems getting any video signals out of my EVGA GeForce 670 GPU. On a hunch Chris at EVGA told me to try loosening the CPU cooler screws. I did and Voila!, everything worked. Evidently the CPU seats on many motherboards are susceptible to very slight warpage under these conditions... leading to just enough distortion to cause marginal CPU Pin connection in the seat, and many potential symptoms. Just a thot...

Mixed RAM kits?
Sorry, not sure what RAM timings you have. But I do have some experience to share that may or may not generally help. Like you, I opted for 64GB, but probably unlike you, I was naive. When my search didn't turn up any single 64GB kit, I simply purchased two 32GB kits. My assumption was pretty basic... that since all of the RAM in the two kits had been tested at 9-9-9-24, 1T, 1.5v @1600MHZ, then all of the RAM in the two kits will work at that speed. But according to Corsair tech support, my assumption excluded the probability that sticks not tested and validated TOGETHER at a particular speed very likely won't work well together in a computer at that speed. I guess there can easily be incompatibility between kit members that's somehow due to two different integrated memory controllers in the CPUs plus mobo memory controllers next to the DIMM slots - some confusion can happen when they are overwhelmed with the shear number of modules being used (8x8).

As it happens, my system has suffered from instability, corrupted OS, and corrupted apps from the very first successful post. And early on, BIOS indicated that one stick that wasn't registering at all. So I swapped it with an adjacent one and because BIOS now picked it up, I thought things were fixed. But other vague problems, frezing, etc. persisted. Eventually after a month of use that stick acted up again by only registering half of it's capacity. Again swapping helped the BIOS see it, but Speccy and some other apps didn't... go figure.

As I'm sure you know the Auto mode in BIOS picks up several (but not all) of the XMP ratings from the sticks, and it in turn sets the motherboard to work with the RAM at those settings. But only latency, timing, and voltage are honored in that way. Frequency is not. As in my case, BIOS often arbitrarily defaults it to a lower value than rated (e.g., my 1600 RAM was set to work at 1333MHz). But you also know we are provided a way to force the frequency to a handful of common settings. I naively thought that many of my instability issues were due to my RAM not being set exactly at rated speed. Haha. So I forced mine up to 1600. But my problems with instability and corruption only increased (What the heck?!...). I had very confusing symptoms. For instance, occasionally my video driver would fail for a few seconds and then recover. Evidently my assumptions about kits were wrong. Speed rating is a little more particular. And a healthy base of RAM is necessary for a healthy system.

Now not many restarts after forcing my frequency to 1600, it would not boot into Windows, and then after a few more force quits, it wouldn't even post. I went back in and yanked out half of the RAM, making sure to include those sticks that I had swapped earlier. Then it posted and Windows loaded! Testing with Memtest86+ then helped me validate the health of each stick one at a time. That testing showed one big culprit to be the stick I had previously did the swapping with. But I also found one more bad one in that kit, plus a more mildly deficient stick in the other kit (that had remained in the computer).

So evidently my mixing of kits amped up an already bad RAM problem. Corsair tech support told me that if my problems had been simply due to mixing kits, that I could fix it. But I would most likely need to leave my notions that all of the RAM would just get along together at the rated speed. Instead I would need to manually specify some lower settings that all could work together at. They suggested for starters that I go back to 1333 and also move the supply voltage upward a little to stabilize and open things up.

So these days the stakes are higher. DD3 RAM ratings are strictly tied to the kit idea, where groupings of sticks are validated together at a particular speed. Now if a kit works well together at the tested speed, one might get lucky and have a group that could also work well together at a higher clocking. But the more RAM you have, the more “Crucial” the kit philosophy is (no pun intended... )
Edited by BlackenedTush - 9/8/12 at 1:48pm
post #12 of 2342
@timmeh87: I'm having the exact same problem but with an eVGA 670 (FTW 4GB). I tried the "Enable VGA Palette Snooping" but didn't work for me. I've tried what you tried and got the same results, the card works in another machine and the onboard VGA works fine. The monitor kicks on like it's going to work but then I get the "no signal" on the monitor. I've flashed both mobo and 670 BIOS to no avail.

@DrItanium: any suggestions as to what else to try in the BIOS?

I'm running 2 2687w's with 64GB RAM and twin H80's, Corsair ATX1200 PSU.

post #13 of 2342

Check out my reply to ChrisSibbald (just above your post). I had the exact same symptoms and it was due to excessive tightening of the CPU cooler. A lot of motherboards are flimsy enough that strong tightening can warp the CPU mounts just enough that the (center?) pins don't contact the CPU affirmatively ... and evidently it's a possibility on this motherboard...

Looser and very even tightening may work for you.
It's always good to have something else to try.

post #14 of 2342

Thanks for the tip, it actually worked one time! Then never again... frown.gif I loosened both H80s and fired it up and it worked! Then when I restarted the computer it was back to nothing again. so I know this card works in this machine just a lot of weirdness. I also tried other slots and the "VGA palette" to enabled like I've heard. bummer. I even tried loosening the H80s some more but nothing.

post #15 of 2342
Hi Guys, I just ordered one of these boards, and a couple Xeons to go with it. Now I need some help picking out RAM, I don't need a ton of capacity 32gb across the 8 dimms is fine, but I also don't want to break the bank, preferably under $250 for 8 dimms, so I'll be looking at unregistered RAM. Does anybody have any recommendations? The stuff on the QVL is either dated (discontinued), not readily available, or really expensive ($700).

I'll be using the build mainly for folding, so speed is more important than tighter timings. I wanted to go with the Samsung 30nm 2x4gb kits, because I already have one, but I heard that RAM doesn't play nicely with this board, or low-voltage RAM in general, which is unfortunate, because I was going for a low power 2P folding rig.

Any suggestions will be considered, and appreciated.
post #16 of 2342

Come to think about it, when I first had the issue of no signal and hadn't yet figured out the seat warpage issue, I was able to get a signal a few times by switching it among PCIe slots. As recommended for VGA cards, I had originally only focused on blue slot 3, where I was able to get it working the first 2 out of 12 times. Later when I found out about the warpage I also remembered that the CPU control is split between the two CPUs. I never played around enough with the GPU slot location to test seating on CPU2, so it is possible that for me CPU2 was seated okay while CPU1 wasn't.. I'll never know.

That said, there are actually two more related things to try:

1) Even tho you have loosened the screws, there may be a difference between the seat warpage of the respective CPUs that could be exploited - where one CPU may now be seated properly while the other one isn't quite. If that is the case, switching from slot group 1-4 to slot group 5-7 or (vice versa) would tell you that. Note also that CPU1's blue slots (1 & 3) are built to autoswitch from 16x to 8x whenever its black slots (2 & 4) are occupied. I say that because it is possible in the real world, that these two slots react in a more sensitive to marginal connections in the CPU seats.

CPU1 controls slots 1 & 3 (blue, w/ autoswitch), plus slots 2 & 4 (black)
CPU2 controls slots 5 & 7 (blue), plus slot 6 (black)

2) Again even though you loosened the cooler screws, the CPUs may still need re-seating. There are three degrees of effort that you can try to accomplish that end. Thankfully I was successful simply doing "a".:

a. loosen the cooler screws as far as possible without disengaging them from the bracket. Then gently pull the cooler pump away while wiggling it, Then re-tighten marginally.
b. Remove the coolers, reseat the CPUs, replace the coolers, and re-tighten marginally
c. same as "b"; but switch the CPUs

Good luck!

post #17 of 2342
I am using 64GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600. It only uses 1.5 volts. This RAM is on the ASUS Qualified Vendor List (QVL), although it has only been officially tested/qualified at 1300MHz). This list is available from the Z9PE -D8 WS product page on the ASUS website Google "asus z9pe-d8 ws". Click on the middle-of-the-page gray tab called "Memory/Devce Support"., then download the three documents found there.

I originally purchased two 32GB kits (CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10) and filled up all 8 slots. Mixing kits like this is definitely not advisable these days with the speeds that they are pushing RAM to. If you need 32GB, then purchase a single 32GB kit. Ultimately I was very fortunate because 1) I got faulty RAM from Corsair (not common), and 2) my bad RAM sticks were found in BOTH of the kits! That meant that Corsair was obligated to replace both kits entirely. And awesomely enough, they were willing to replace them with one 64GB kit! That 64GB kit works flawlessly BTW.... So I'd recommend Corsair and their Vengeance RAM.

Now lots of RAM sticks these days come with cooling fins that could easily interfere with CPU coolers. My Vengeance RAM is that way. But Corsair also makes a low profile versions. Make sure that your RAM is low profile, or that your cooler is high-rise, or the cooler doesn't extend out over the RAM slots.
post #18 of 2342
annubis 1127,

I forgot to say that the Corsair Vengeance 32GB kit I mentioned above can be had for around $150-$160 on Amazon or Newegg. And while they may have other configurations not on their website, the 32GB Kit that Corsair promotes there doesn't fill all 8 slots... it's 4 x 8GB.

Also you could conceivably mix the RAM you have with some newer RAM; but it will come at a cost. You'd have to play with it in the BIOS to reach the highest common denominator (by upping the voltage and lowering the speed to maybe 1333 or even lower).

And sorry. I see now that you already knew about the ASUS QVL...

Edited by BlackenedTush - 10/14/12 at 6:19pm
post #19 of 2342
Originally Posted by BlackenedTush View Post

annubis 1127,
I forgot to say that the Corsair Vengeance 32GB kit I mentioned above can be had for around $150-$160 on Amazon or Newegg. And while they may have other configurations not on their website, the 32GB Kit that Corsair promotes there doesn't fill all 8 slots... it's 4 x 8GB.
Also you could conceivably mix the RAM you have with some newer RAM; but it will come at a cost. You'd have to play with it in the BIOS to reach the highest common denominator (by upping the voltage and lowering the speed to maybe 1333 or even lower).
And sorry. I see now that you already knew about the ASUS QVL...

Hmm, ok, thanks, that's food for thought. I was hoping to get at least 1866, preferably 2133 out of the RAM, but that may be asking a bit much for the limited budget I have.

Are you using the RAM at its rated speed?

This is the kit I was considering before reading your reply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231499 2x of those, it's on the QVL, is 1.5v, and resonably priced. Unfortunately they don't have any 8x4gb kits that I can see at least.

That kit got me tempted to try this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231499 Which are similar timings / volts to another g.skill 8x8gb kit on the approved list, but I'm not sure.

[edit] Just found the 8x4gb kits, looks tempting: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231502

and the kit on the QVL, but in 8x4gb variety: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231500 OOS on that one, same price as the 2133.

I dislike those heatsinks so badly though.
Edited by anubis1127 - 10/14/12 at 7:32pm
post #20 of 2342

Thanks for the info! I was talking with ASUS this morning and they agreed about the warpage but also thought that once it's warped it may not go back. I've removed both processors and am letting them sit for a few hours then I'll replace them and swap slots. When I first loosened the H80s the video worked right away but then never again. I've been able to get it to work in Slot 3 but I get this power cycling on boot up. It'll power on for about a second then power off, then power back on for about a second then back off...etc. Sometimes only 1 or 2 times before it continues to boot and sometimes 5-6 times. ASUS says that's hardware related so this could all be the same problem. ASUS also said that slot 3 is controlled by PLX and not a CPU. Hopefully I'm getting closer to a solution!

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