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Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions - Page 105

post #1041 of 1075
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

I have and use the tool although it's not really necessary for the type of connector shown in the photo. My problem is not with the integrity of electrical connection, it's with sleeving the cables for a nice appearance. Let me repeat/rephrase my original question: does anyone know of a technique that will yield aesthetic results similar to the picture I posted?

If I was going to do that, I would first extend the ends of the sleeving closer together than necessary to clear the connector body, overheat a shrink sleeve over the ends so the sleeve will melt a little ways past where the connector will go, then cut away the shrink sleeve and trim the melted end of the sleeve enough to create that squared off appearance, leaving just enough room for the connector between the squared off ends of the sleeving.

Another idea might be to position the cut ends of the sleeving where they need to be, use masking tape on the sleeving a little ways from the ends, then stabilize the ends with some kind of clear adhesive.

If you are on Facebook, you might write the guy who posted that photo and ask how he did it.

Also, go to the first post in this thread. one of Lutro's articles in the post discusses ways to sleeve pass through SATA connectors.
Edited by Lady Fitzgerald - 3/30/17 at 12:11pm
     
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post #1042 of 1075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

I have and use the tool although it's not really necessary for the type of connector shown in the photo. My problem is not with the integrity of electrical connection, it's with sleeving the cables for a nice appearance. Let me repeat/rephrase my original question: does anyone know of a technique that will yield aesthetic results similar to the picture I posted?

If I was going to do that, I would first extend the ends of the sleeving closer together than necessary to clear the connector body, overheat a shrink sleeve over the ends so the sleeve will melt a little ways past where the connector will go, then cut away the shrink sleeve and trim the melted end of the sleeve enough to create that squared off appearance, leaving just enough room for the connector between the squared off ends of the sleeving.

Another idea might be to position the cut ends of the sleeving where they need to be, use masking tape on the sleeving a little ways from the ends, then stabilize the ends with some kind of clear adhesive.

If you are on Facebook, you might write the guy who posted that photo and ask how he did it.

Thank you for the advice! My usual method is the masking tape+superglue approach you suggested. It inevitably ends up looking like crap on a stick because the CA stiffens the sleeve, and there is always at least one corner on each connector where some tape ends up showing.

Looking at the picture, it looks like he did something similar to your idea about the sleeve-melting and cutting. I was particularly impressed by how even and neat the sleeve ends look, and that kind of look is what I'm after. I'm sure once the connector is in place you will be looking at a perfect heatshrinkless connection. Unfortunately, the op is Indonesian and doesn't appear to speak English, and my Indonesian is not that hot. I was hoping someone around here knows how to do this and wants to share, as I'm sure I'm not the only one frustrated with sata power cables.
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post #1043 of 1075

Here is a way of treating sleeve so that it does not fray in a SATA Power Strip and can look as if the chain is sleeved right through the connectors.
I use Shakmods 2mm sleeve on 16awg UL1007 wire because it avoids loss of contact and loose untidy sleeve. It helps when fitting the wire to warm it up first - and, of course, check and recheck your results with a multimeter.

 

The key to this method is my heat shrink tool which is a small length of telescope aerial split down its length so that it can be wrapped around the sleeve it is to protect while heat shrink is being applied. The part of the aerrial I use is just too thick to go inside 4mm 2/1 heat shrink but can be coaxed in when it is split.

 

1. Tools and Material
4mm 2/1 Heat shrink; Heat shrink tool; 2mm Skakmods Sleeve; 16awg UL1007 Wire; Smaller of two Cross slot in a standard Jewellers Sdriver Kit; Lighter
2. Step One
Fit Heat shrink on the heat shrink tool
3. Step Two
Cut heat shrink to leave 3-4mm overlap
4. Step Three
Thread Sleeve through the Heat shrink tool
5. Step Four
Place sleeve on Jeweller's SDriver blade
6. Step Five
Slide Heat shrink right over the sleeve
7. Step Six
Spin heat shrink in blue part of lighter flame for a count of 10 and remove from SDriver blade
8. Step Seven
Slide Heat shrink tool off sleeve - which should now have a solid, non-frayable (and trimmable) end

 

Step eight then cuts the sleeve to the required length and treats the other end. The object of this method is not to fix the sleeve on the wire but to allow it to spring between the connectors by being cut slightly too long - between the connector blades rather than the plastic faces of the connectors.

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post #1044 of 1075
You can always use the MDPC push-in SATA terminals. https://mod-one.com/cable-sleeving-supplies/connectors/new-category/

That way you aren't really needing any specialized tools. They have pass through and 90 degree caps (for the very end terminal).
post #1045 of 1075
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonCL View Post

You can always use the MDPC push-in SATA terminals. https://mod-one.com/cable-sleeving-supplies/connectors/new-category/

That way you aren't really needing any specialized tools. They have pass through and 90 degree caps (for the very end terminal).

That does not address the question jvillaveces asked, which was how to seal a square cut end to sleeving between the connectors.
     
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post #1046 of 1075
Clever. Using heat shrink to melt sleeve. Just make sure to use non adhesive heat shrink. To bad that only works with PET sleeving. My preference is nylon parachute cord
post #1047 of 1075

You might be able to use a method for melting sleeve on wire to employ paracord in a SATA Power Strip but it would mean fixing the sleeve to the wire. However, it should be possible to devise a method for shaping the melt to achieve the same effect instead of the usual rough shaping of heatshrinkless style.

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post #1048 of 1075
Quote:
Originally Posted by Himo5 View Post

Here is a way of treating sleeve so that it does not fray in a SATA Power Strip and can look as if the chain is sleeved right through the connectors.

I use Shakmods 2mm sleeve on 16awg UL1007 wire because it avoids loss of contact and loose untidy sleeve. It helps when fitting the wire to warm it up first - and, of course, check and recheck your results with a multimeter.



The key to this method is my heat shrink tool which is a small length of telescope aerial split down its length so that it can be wrapped around the sleeve it is to protect while heat shrink is being applied. The part of the aerrial I use is just too thick to go inside 4mm 2/1 heat shrink but can be coaxed in when it is split.



1. Tools and Material

4mm 2/1 Heat shrink; Heat shrink tool; 2mm Skakmods Sleeve; 16awg UL1007 Wire; Smaller of two Cross slot in a standard Jewellers Sdriver Kit; Lighter

2. Step One

Fit Heat shrink on the heat shrink tool

3. Step Two

Cut heat shrink to leave 3-4mm overlap

4. Step Three

Thread Sleeve through the Heat shrink tool

5. Step Four

Place sleeve on Jeweller's SDriver blade

6. Step Five

Slide Heat shrink right over the sleeve

7. Step Six

Spin heat shrink in blue part of lighter flame for a count of 10 and remove from SDriver blade

8. Step Seven

Slide Heat shrink tool off sleeve - which should now have a solid, non-frayable (and trimmable) end



Step eight then cuts the sleeve to the required length and treats the other end. The object of this method is not to fix the sleeve on the wire but to allow it to spring between the connectors by being cut slightly too long - between the connector blades rather than the plastic faces of the connectors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Himo5 View Post

Here is a way of treating sleeve so that it does not fray in a SATA Power Strip and can look as if the chain is sleeved right through the connectors.

I use Shakmods 2mm sleeve on 16awg UL1007 wire because it avoids loss of contact and loose untidy sleeve. It helps when fitting the wire to warm it up first - and, of course, check and recheck your results with a multimeter.



The key to this method is my heat shrink tool which is a small length of telescope aerial split down its length so that it can be wrapped around the sleeve it is to protect while heat shrink is being applied. The part of the aerrial I use is just too thick to go inside 4mm 2/1 heat shrink but can be coaxed in when it is split.



1. Tools and Material

4mm 2/1 Heat shrink; Heat shrink tool; 2mm Skakmods Sleeve; 16awg UL1007 Wire; Smaller of two Cross slot in a standard Jewellers Sdriver Kit; Lighter

2. Step One

Fit Heat shrink on the heat shrink tool

3. Step Two

Cut heat shrink to leave 3-4mm overlap

4. Step Three

Thread Sleeve through the Heat shrink tool

5. Step Four

Place sleeve on Jeweller's SDriver blade

6. Step Five

Slide Heat shrink right over the sleeve

7. Step Six

Spin heat shrink in blue part of lighter flame for a count of 10 and remove from SDriver blade

8. Step Seven

Slide Heat shrink tool off sleeve - which should now have a solid, non-frayable (and trimmable) end



Step eight then cuts the sleeve to the required length and treats the other end. The object of this method is not to fix the sleeve on the wire but to allow it to spring between the connectors by being cut slightly too long - between the connector blades rather than the plastic faces of the connectors.

Thank you for your detailed response, and congratulations for this ingenious method! To clarify, first you melt the sleeve while off the wire with your jig, then cut to appropriate length so it sits between the blades of the connector, then apply to the wire?
Edited by jvillaveces - 4/4/17 at 8:57am
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post #1049 of 1075

That's right. I have a piece of 16awg wire marked with the correct length of each section (including the allowance I mentioned to produce the spring effect). Once I have treated the end of the sleeve coil I place it on this wire, stretch it out and stick a pin through it where the wire ends - double checking against the other sections as I go. That gives me my cut point so I take the sleeve off the wire, cut it at the pin, singe it as usual and place it on the Screwdriver blade to treat the other end of the section.

 

 

 

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post #1050 of 1075
Hello everyone,

I read the FAQ carefully, but still have some questions : I'd like to produce custom length cables for my caselabs SMA8, which would help to reduce clutter in the case.

My PSU will be an EVGA 1200 P2, and I would like to keep stock cables as-is.

My questions :
- based on the looks of it, the PSU side connectors look like standard Molex, is this correct ?
- I read in the FAQ that some cable may have capacitors...do you know if it is the case for the 1200 P2, and if I don't put any, will that matter ?
- I read conflicting things regarding the recommended gauge for the wires : is 16 mandatory for 24v, or will 18 go for everything ?
- If I need to splice wires, what is the best technique ? When I was working in automotive we used ultrasound splicing machines, but I don't really feel like buying this type of equipment smile.gifsmile.gif
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